Need New Check Valve

Noggin

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Mar 14, 2010
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Being rather stupid, I replaced the tubing on my Liquidator last season and not the check valves as I didn't think I needed them. My liquidator is a few inches below the water level of the pool, so over the course of several months it killed a second of my neighbors grass.

I disassembled the floats in the Liquidator and found that the seals were worn. I asked Hasa to send me the rubber seals as replacements, they sent me completely new float assemblies, both in and out. That didn't fix it.
I then purchased this check valve and installed it on the suction side. This valve is spring loaded, so it works in any orientation. The spring force is quite low so it opens easily when I blow through it in one direction. I think this is working well on the suction side.

I don't have a check valve on the fill line (after the filter). I didn't think I'd need one as I expected the float to close when the liquidator filled up. When I woke up this morning, the liquidator was again overflowing into my neighbors yard. I do have a ball valve on the fill line (as well as the suction line) and I've closed it. I'm hoping that when I return home from work and my pump is finished running that my liquidator will be run down to the suction valve. This will indicate that my fill line is where the overflow is occurring.

I'm concerned that due to the relative ease of blowing through the John Guest valve that it won't stop the gradual overflow of the liquidator. Should I be concerned, or should I expect it to work?
 
The leak is DEFINITELY on the fill side, the float doesn't completely close off inlet. I closed the ball valve and let it sit overnight and it didn't overflow. I ordered another John Guest check valve. Got my fingers crossed that it is strong enough to stop the water flow. It'll be nice to not have to run my pump 24 hours a day just to not flood my neighbors yard.
 
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