You are fine leaving it alone till tomorrow. A small PH reduction is also fine, if you feel so inclined, but is hardly essential.
Gearing up for Ascorbic Acid Treatment
- Thread starter Taylor1584
- Start date
Well I have been absent here. During May I was in and out of town and Pool Guy, who shall remain nameless did not check chlorine and ph every day as instructed. He did however take care of our four footers and manage not to starve. According to Pool Guy, at one point there was green stuff everywhere. So he cranked up the SWG and token brushed, everyday maintenance is not his strong point. So while the pool looked good by the time I was home, there was some iron staining beginning to come back. Then we received 10 inches of rain in 6 hours. So I am struggling to keep the ph down and gradually bring the chlorine back up. Then summer hit with high 80 to mid 90's, and I am seeing green spots on the stairs, in corners, around the lights and drains. I even took the Polaris apart. So I am slamming the pool, so much for slowly bringing up the chlorine to avoid restaining . I forgot to mention I was adding polyquat 60 and Jack's Purple Stuff. I am slamming by using the chlorine/cya chart and the pool calculator. If I didn't have those two items to guide me, it would look like I'm a crazy person dumping gallons bleach in the pool, that or cleaning up a crimes scene. I made last addition of bleach for the night, just waiting to check the pool levels in an hour and then at dawn. Just curious to know should I even bother with anymore polyquat at this point, and what about Jack's Purple Stuff. Or is the stain a lost cause at this point and I should start over with the Ascorbic Acid treatment in the fall when the water cools down a little, pool water temp was 87 this afternoon. Will post results shortly.
Just tested at midnight,
chlorine 26
I will check again in the early morning. Mistakenly got the Splashless Chlorox. I usually get the store brand with no fragrance and store hadn't stocked the shelf. Anyway in trying to make sure there was no fragrances I grabbed original, it wasn't till I got home that I noticed after putting in almost 4 gallons. Can you say SUDS. You can hardly find the regular old bleach, the concentrated is the 8.25 and that was the original years ago, and some brands do not have the percentage listed.
chlorine 26
I will check again in the early morning. Mistakenly got the Splashless Chlorox. I usually get the store brand with no fragrance and store hadn't stocked the shelf. Anyway in trying to make sure there was no fragrances I grabbed original, it wasn't till I got home that I noticed after putting in almost 4 gallons. Can you say SUDS. You can hardly find the regular old bleach, the concentrated is the 8.25 and that was the original years ago, and some brands do not have the percentage listed.
Hi Taylor. Sorry the pool guy laid your hard work to waste.
Two tips that might help...if you're tired of trying to find non-splashless bleach, just buy liquid chlorine for pools...sometimes a trip to the pool store can be entertaining if you ignore them
But liquid pool chlorine is also usually avail at large supermarkets this time of year. It will be either 10% or 12.5% so adjust accordingly using pool math.
Re: stains...here's the deal: AA always works in and of itself, but people do have problems on the other side of stains returning in high ph events or slams, etc. so it can get to be a cycle...one I used to be on
Last year a fellow TFPer named RavenJim tried the Metal Magic Sponge Test and accordingly used a high dose...eg about 5 quarts, and it worked on stains and kept working. So I tried it too and enjoyed the same effect. We both have vinyl liners and sand filters..don't know if that made a difference.
I liked it because I didn't ave to drop my ph (MM wants ph above 7.5 in order to work) and I didn't have to fool around with FC much afterward. I bought a case with free shipping so it worked out to under $17 a bottle from Pool Chemicals, Hot Tub Chemicals and Supplies | Pool Geek . So in my case it was comparable in cost to an AA treatment plus polyquat, which you don't need using this method.
I will post the thread for you to read and decide if you want to try it or not -- the results could vary and it is for this reason that it is not the official TFP way.
Here's the link to the sponge test, which will indicate how much you need to remove a stain: http://www.proteampoolcare.com/images/uploads/MetalMagicSpongeTest.pdf
Here's the link to RavenJim's thread: Switching Sequestrate from EDTA to HEDP
One last note -- metal magic can precipitate calcium which binds to the metal, so you might see a few days of cloudiness when you use it. I'm vinyl so don't have higher calcium levels so it doesn't do this in my pool, just FYI.
Hope that gives you a few options to consider.
Cheers, SW
Two tips that might help...if you're tired of trying to find non-splashless bleach, just buy liquid chlorine for pools...sometimes a trip to the pool store can be entertaining if you ignore them
But liquid pool chlorine is also usually avail at large supermarkets this time of year. It will be either 10% or 12.5% so adjust accordingly using pool math.Re: stains...here's the deal: AA always works in and of itself, but people do have problems on the other side of stains returning in high ph events or slams, etc. so it can get to be a cycle...one I used to be on
Last year a fellow TFPer named RavenJim tried the Metal Magic Sponge Test and accordingly used a high dose...eg about 5 quarts, and it worked on stains and kept working. So I tried it too and enjoyed the same effect. We both have vinyl liners and sand filters..don't know if that made a difference.
I liked it because I didn't ave to drop my ph (MM wants ph above 7.5 in order to work) and I didn't have to fool around with FC much afterward. I bought a case with free shipping so it worked out to under $17 a bottle from Pool Chemicals, Hot Tub Chemicals and Supplies | Pool Geek . So in my case it was comparable in cost to an AA treatment plus polyquat, which you don't need using this method.
I will post the thread for you to read and decide if you want to try it or not -- the results could vary and it is for this reason that it is not the official TFP way.
Here's the link to the sponge test, which will indicate how much you need to remove a stain: http://www.proteampoolcare.com/images/uploads/MetalMagicSpongeTest.pdf
Here's the link to RavenJim's thread: Switching Sequestrate from EDTA to HEDP
One last note -- metal magic can precipitate calcium which binds to the metal, so you might see a few days of cloudiness when you use it. I'm vinyl so don't have higher calcium levels so it doesn't do this in my pool, just FYI.
Hope that gives you a few options to consider.
Cheers, SW
Morning everyone. At least the pool looks much better.
FC 26.5
CC 1.5
TC 28
TA 40
Ch 500
CYA 40
ph 7.5
Borates 30
Water Temp 86 degrees F
How did my chlorine end up higher in the morning, apparently I did not wait long enough or brush long enough to get the chlorine thoroughly mixed. I am using test kit recommended and now have the little magnetic stirrer.
Swampwomen, thanks for the advice I will look into that. I am going to stay on the testing and brushing today and maybe tonight and tomorrow morning it will all be gone.
FC 26.5
CC 1.5
TC 28
TA 40
Ch 500
CYA 40
ph 7.5
Borates 30
Water Temp 86 degrees F
How did my chlorine end up higher in the morning, apparently I did not wait long enough or brush long enough to get the chlorine thoroughly mixed. I am using test kit recommended and now have the little magnetic stirrer.
Swampwomen, thanks for the advice I will look into that. I am going to stay on the testing and brushing today and maybe tonight and tomorrow morning it will all be gone.
Looks like my update from last evening didn't go through.
Chlorine can in at 9, I then added enough bleach to get it back up to 24+ish.
This morning chlorine held at 26, and that was with a little sun on it.
Taking apart the polaris 280 probably helped, the main float was clogged with green black gunk, and all the other floats, I moved each one and scrubbed off pink staining. I am going to try to hold the chlorine for a little while longer. So far the staining isn't bad. Should I add more sequestrant while the chlorine is high, or wait? Also ph has risen to 7.4, add acid now or wait? I'm hoping I can keep the staining away, to the level it is now. Any advice?
Chlorine can in at 9, I then added enough bleach to get it back up to 24+ish.
This morning chlorine held at 26, and that was with a little sun on it.
Taking apart the polaris 280 probably helped, the main float was clogged with green black gunk, and all the other floats, I moved each one and scrubbed off pink staining. I am going to try to hold the chlorine for a little while longer. So far the staining isn't bad. Should I add more sequestrant while the chlorine is high, or wait? Also ph has risen to 7.4, add acid now or wait? I'm hoping I can keep the staining away, to the level it is now. Any advice?
Afternoon chlorine reading is 11, adding bleach back to 24. CC was1.5. Ph 7.4
Should I lower the ph, will that prevent the staining from coming back? Its not too bad right now. I have more Jacks Purple Stuff, should I add now or wait until I am done slamming?
Should I lower the ph, will that prevent the staining from coming back? Its not too bad right now. I have more Jacks Purple Stuff, should I add now or wait until I am done slamming?
Ph reading aren't accurate when slamming so don't adjust now until finished.
Metal Sequestrant works best when applied at low FC levels, so again, wait til your done the slam
Cheers to clear!
Metal Sequestrant works best when applied at low FC levels, so again, wait til your done the slam
Cheers to clear!
Thank you Swampwoman,
My chlorine is now 24 at nightfall. I am hopefully looking forward the that level at daylight. I appreciate the advice about waiting on the sequestrant.
Thanks again
My chlorine is now 24 at nightfall. I am hopefully looking forward the that level at daylight. I appreciate the advice about waiting on the sequestrant.
Thanks again