Rescued Pool from a foreclosure in Northern Indiana

Apr 20, 2015
17
Mishawaka, IN
My wife and I bought a foreclosure in May of 2012. It had a "pool" in the backyard. Apparently, it's common for the pools to be sabotaged as part of an FHA foreclosure. I wasn't a big fan of the idea/expense of a pool, but the house, location, and five-acres had me sold. I secretly hoped I could someday hope to convince her to let me fill it in. In April of 2015, after getting another round of quotes, and getting two that didn't make my want to pass out, I finally conceded and signed off on it. I know pool work is extremely seasonal in our area, but I'm still shocked at how much cheaper it was in early April versus June-August when I had previously had it quoted. I was able to get the vermiculite surface completely re-skimmed and a 27-mil liner installed for just a hair under $3000.

I attempted to document the whole process in this set of photos on my Flickr account. For those who don't want to see the whole process...

Before:
IMG_4209

After:
Untitled

Fast forward just two weeks: the pool company has repaired the vermiculite surface and installed the liner, I've replaced/repaired a bunch of the plumbing, the pool was filled from our municipal supply, and all the equipment has been running for a few days now. I'm moving on to "pool school" - we both grew up around pools but have never had the joy/pleasure of maintaining one, so we need to learn about proper cleaning, chemistry, etc. The idea of TFPC is super-appealing to me. I did visit a local shop late last week and had the water sampled after the initial 24-48 hours of circulation:

Water temp: 58º
Total Chlorine: .1
Free Chlorine: .1
Total Alkalinity: 221
pH 7.9
CYA: 0
Hardness: 341

They sell Bioguard stuff... so $270 later, I was out the door with 6 lbs of stabilzer/acid, 16 lbs of LoNSlo, some scale inhibitor, algaecide, four 1 lb bags of their Burn Out shock, and of course an expensive 25 lb tub of 3" Silk tablets. I dumped in the stuff in the recommended order... the CYA, then algaecide & scale inhibitor, then started adding a few pounds of LoNSlo every afternoon for a few days. Three of the 3" tablets are in the CL200 chlorine feeder too with it set to about the 50% dosing position. I have NOT added the shock yet. Over the weekend, I found you guys and have ordered the Taylor 2006 test kit, but it's still a few days out. Took a fresh sample to the store this morning and was pretty happy with the readings:

Total Chlorine: .9
Free Chlorine: .9
Total Alkalinity: 158
pH 7.1
CYA: 44
Hardness: 319

So, I'm looking to learn from you guys. I'm still reading and re-reading the TFPC and playing around with PoolMath, but curious where you'd suggest I go from here. I know I need to get the FC and pH up just a bit. I've got a 25 lb bucket of the 3" tabs that can't be returned, so do I stick with "traditional" method of supplying chlorine until those run thin and start stocking up on bleach in the meantime? From what I've gathered here already, the algaecide and scale inhibitor are pointless?

Thanks in advance - Looking forward to learning and hopefully at some point - contributing back!

-Justin

PS - Don't tell my wife, but I already like having the pool - even though we're probably at least a month out from comfortable water temps. The backyard atmosphere is so much more relaxing already.
 
:wave: Welcome to TFP!!

Well, it is going to be hard to give advice based on those questionable test results.
The CYA level appears to be good where it is so the continued used of tablets is not recommended.

Unfortunately most of what you bought is stuff that we would never recommend or way overpriced. Too bad you did not find us before entering the pool store.

Have you discovered Pool School yet? Start with these:
ABCs of Water Chemistry
Recommended Pool Chemicals
How to Chlorinate Your Pool
 
Welcome to TFP! TFPC is even cheaper and easier than what you are doing now. Read up on those links. My wife really appreciates how hard I work to keep the pool sparkling and clear! :-D
 
:wave: Welcome to TFP!!

Well, it is going to be hard to give advice based on those questionable test results.
The CYA level appears to be good where it is so the continued used of tablets is not recommended.

Unfortunately most of what you bought is stuff that we would never recommend or way overpriced. Too bad you did not find us before entering the pool store.

Have you discovered Pool School yet? Start with these:
ABCs of Water Chemistry
Recommended Pool Chemicals
How to Chlorinate Your Pool

Have to agree, but welcome to TFP!

Glad to have you aboard. :cheers:



^^^^^^^What they said

Welcome!!
 
Looks great compared to where you started. I too live where pool workers are seasonal. And getting in before everyone else wants opened or after everyone else is closed makes for great deals generally.
As Jason said, add some bleach or LC daily until the test kit arrives and report back with full results.



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Did you test CYA today? The shock and tabs they sold you may have brought it up a little.

Get some more chlorine in there. I'll call your CYA 50, and at 50 you should never go below 4 and target 6.
 

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Well hello there! So glad you found the best pool web site ever-TFP! You will LOVE it here!

The tablets will keep forever if you keep them dry. They are good for weekend get aways and such. They are a good thing IF you understand what they will add to your pool when/if you use them. Read the links given above and you will learn how everything works together to make your pool sparkle.

Did you test your CYA? It is a hard one to do. You can retest the same water over and over while you learn.
-Go out into full sun.
-Hold the tube at waist level.
-Turn your back to the sun.
-pour test water and stop when you cannot see the black dot.

Good luck and let us know how we can help!

Kim
 
Oops - I did test CYA, but it was indoors last night. It was somewhere in the 40-50 range, which is pretty consistent with what the local store reported last week and also consistent with the amount of dry acid I added after the initial fill.

Dogs haven't hit the water yet and I'm trying to prolong it as long as possible. I'm worried that once they discover it's allowed we won't be able to keep them out!

As far as socks, I have a 100-pack of "spun" hair nets on the way from Amazon. Allegedly way more durable than the nylon stockings once exposed the chlorine.


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How trainable are they? Can you train them using the word "pool" and that is the only time they would go in? Do they have a good leave it command?

I was able to train my mastiff/lab mix for the pond using the words pond and leave it.

Kim
 
Hello,
Welcome to the Forum. That is a beutiful pool. I have a 70's era inground pool that one day will need the type of service you had done (re-coating of the vermiculite) with a new liner. I am in the Chicago area and it is possible your pool company may venture that far. I had a few compaines look at mine 2 years ago and many were uncertain or unfamiliar with the type and more importantly the age of my pool.
Are you willing to share the company that did the work?

Thanks !
 
Finally spent some time on the pool today and even gave The Mrs a brief TFPC tutorial. She's coming around... Water temp is up to a "balmy" 55. Brrrr! New numbers after sunset tonight...

FC: 6.5
CC: .5
pH: 7.2
TA: 170
CYA: 50

I built this earlier from some stuff I had in my PVC bin.and have been running it for a few hours with no measurable drop in TA yet.

Might need more aggressive aeration and drop the pH a bit more to get that TA down.

Fisherman: These are the guys that did the work... I'm mostly happy. http://www.michianapools.com
 
Aeration in itself will not lower the TA. Aeration increases pH, then adding acid to bring the pH back down is what lowers the TA. I have found that lowering TA is not a fast process. I have spent a few months bringing mine from 90 to 70. I find that lowering TA is not a fast process, because you have the repeat the cycles of aeration/acid addition quite a few times. PoolMath at the bottom (Effect of adding chemicals) can give you some idea of how many gallons of muriatic acid you'll eventually need to go through. You can only add an amount of muriatic acid during each cycle that keeps you within the recommended pH limits.
 
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