K1000 Chorine Test Results: Off The Charts Reddish-Orange?

[chuckp]

Good Morning Everyone,

Opened the pool on Saturday with TF-100 Kit readings of:
FC = .5
CC = 0
TA = 80
CYA = 120 (very subjective and not quite sure I get it yet)

Wanted to bring my chlorine levels up to 4 so added 106 oz of 8.25 bleach and 4 lbs of baking soda according to Pool Math Calcs.
Why did I choose 4? Just wanted to get chlorine up to some midpoint to start.

This morning I tested the chlorine and PH using the K1000 basic kit.
The chlorine side turned a dark reddish orange with no similarity to yellow whatsoever.
Again, used the TF-100 and recorded these:
FC = 22.5 (kept adding and adding drops....)
CC = 0
TA = 140 (Orange in color)
CYA = 80

What do you make of the dark reddish orange color and the sudden spike in FC?
Is this a "good state" for the pool to be in?
If not, what do you suggest?

As always, I appreciate all the work of the moderators to help us newbies navigate pool ownership and maintenance.

Chuck.

 

[Patrick_B]

Welcome to TFP Chuck!

First recommendation is to stop any further additions, and tell us what the pH is.

The sudden spike in FC came from the Bleach you added. Did the test eventually turn clear from pink to get the 22.5 PPM you listed? Please answer these questions, run the pH again, post that, and we'll go from there.

 

[tim5055]

Don't worry about the color on the OTO chlorine test (K1000). There are colors "above" yellow.

On the OTO (yellow) chlorine test:

Blinding tweety-bird yellow is about 10. School bus yellow is about 12-13. Hunter orange is around 18, up around 25 it starts to look pumpkin orange.

Patrick has you going in the right direction.

But, as to the CYA - 100 is the limit of the CYA test and you can't "guess" at numbers above that, so you have to do a diluted test. While the full instructions are in the Pool School, here is the short version. Mix 50% pool water with 50% tap water. Use this mixed sample as your test water. If still at a 100 you will need to dilute more. Here is a great chart by JamesW to explain dilution rates and what you multiply the results by to get an approximation of your CYA level.

Pool water......Tap or distilled water.........Multiply result by

....1...................1................................2
....1...................2................................3
....1...................4................................5

 

[chuckp]

Yes Patrick. The solution eventually turned clear after testing my patience! I was going to stop at 20 or 25 drops but decided to keep going all the way to 45 drops.
PH was about 7.8

Thanks.

- - - Updated - - -

Thanks for the clarification on those colors Tim. The analogies make it more easily understood.

 

[Patrick_B]

Yes, I always like that little chart as well Tim...good one!

Ok, so lets not add anything more right now. Re run the Cya once more. It looks like you'll need to start working that down. Make up the sample and get a solid number. It just takes a little practice on that one.

With your TA increase, your pH is going to drift up, so watch it. Ok for now, but keep and eye on it.

Please take some more time to read pool school, start with ABCs and ask questions about anything you need too. We'll be here to help. You can click the links in my signature to take you there.

 

[chuckp]

Ran the diluted CYA test and took the 50 from the test tube mark and multiplied by 2 to get 100. Still high.

 

[Patrick_B]

I would suggest working that down to at least 50-60. Replace small amounts of water at a time, say 4-5 thousand gallons each. Do this at least a couple of times. Don't do it all at once with your vinyl liner, just to be safe. Circulate a minimum of several hours before the next removal. After that you will want minimal to zero use of products containing Cya, or you'll be back in the same boat. These products will have Dichlor of Trichlor in the ingredients. These are what got your high on stabizer level. or Cyanuric Acid. Having too much is referred to as being over stabilized.