Changing out slide valve for multi-port valve!

dubbedout · Apr 15, 2015

I received my Hayward multi-port valve today and I'd like to install it myself. I've never done any plumbing in regards to pools but I'm familiar with gluing PVC joints. I'm just wondering if there's anything I should know before I embark on this DIY adventure. I know I'll have to reroute some of the PVC because all of the connections on the slide valve are on one side.

New multi-port valve is a Hayward SP0715X62.

Here's a shot of my current setup:

JasonLion · Apr 15, 2015

It isn't that difficult. Just remember to take your time, measure several times, and cut once, and hold the joints together tightly for the first several seconds.

Richard320 · Apr 15, 2015

If you've never worked with PVC before, maybe practice a little and build yourself an aerator or a fountain or a water cannon that hooks to the return. Perhaps a pipe drink table or a rack to store pool toys or dry towels. Then move up to the big expensive fittings and the valve.

dubbedout · Apr 16, 2015

So I tackled this project today and all went well with only one hiccup. I do have one question though, is it necessary to let the PVC cement cure for a full 24 hours? I finished a few hours ago and would like to test for leaks in the morning, is that sufficient cure time?

dubbedout · Apr 17, 2015

So I got everything connected and I have a couple questions. First, I think the PVC connected to the pump is sucking air. I probably should have replaced that PVC too but I just left it. Well, it looks like it used to have some type of plumbers putty or something to help the seal. I did move it around a bit so maybe broke up whatever putty that was left on there. Should I get some plumbers putty and put it around the seal to stop the air leak? If so, which kind should I use. To be thorough, I removed the lid of the muti-port valve and put some extra lube on the O-ring and re attached. It seems now that theres water coming out of where the screw goes in on 2 spots. I just hand tightened with a screw driver and wrench, did I over do it and cause a leak?

Here's a shot of the PVC going into the pump:

Thanks guys

jblizzle · Apr 17, 2015

That picture shows the pressure side of the pump. It can not suck in air there.

Propbndr · Apr 17, 2015

dubbedout said:
I do have one question though, is it necessary to let the PVC cement cure for a full 24 hours? I finished a few hours ago and would like to test for leaks in the morning, is that sufficient cure time?

In a word, no. At "city pressures" of 50 to 80 psi, assuming that the joint was properly cleaned, usually 15 minutes is plenty of time. Otherwise, if for example you had a pipe freeze and split, you'd be waiting a day after the plumber you called made the repair before you got your water back.