Replacing Single Speed Pentair

[JasonLion]

The only common reason for having a check valve there is when you have a solar system. You don't mention having solar panels, so you presumably don't need the check valve. But if you do have solar and forgot to mention it, the check valve would be important.

 

[nomar116]

So I began the pump replacement today. Unfortunately the inlet for the Hayward sits about one inch lower than that of the Pentair. Looking for best solutions to step the inlet down to the pump or raise the pump.

Edit - Looks like stepping the plumbing down is not the answer as it will challenge the pumps ability to generate prime. Looks like my options are replumbing the three inlets or somehow raising the pump off the plastic base.

 

[nomar116]

Edit -

I was considering Heat bending the pipe but instead purchased two 45s which will be adequate for the step down. Much easier fix than heat bending.

Two questions remain:

Can I consider the two 45's as part of the 10" straight inlet into the pump (for 2" PVC)? Or should I extend it further and begin my 10" after the last 45?

Also, should I add a union on the suction side? If I had to cut it out I would have just enough PVC to do one more repair in the future. I noticed a lot of guys are using unions on the suction side and I wondered if perhaps that was to facilitate future repairs?

 

[JasonLion]

The 10" of straight pipe thing is nice, but hardly essential. Having 2 45s is not straight pipe, but is still fine 99% of the time.

Most people around here like to use unions to make future repairs easier. Personally I would never do that, as it is just one more part that can fail and PVC plumbing is easy if you leave some straight pipe to accommodate future changes.

 

[nomar116]

The 10" of straight pipe thing is nice, but hardly essential. Having 2 45s is not straight pipe, but is still fine 99% of the time.

Most people around here like to use unions to make future repairs easier. Personally I would never do that, as it is just one more part that can fail and PVC plumbing is easy if you leave some straight pipe to accommodate future changes.

Thanks for all the help. The Hayward is up and running and is whisper quite. I also decided to forego the unions as I have plenty of PVC for cutting/repairs to work with left.

Now I just need to find some energy efficient settings that work for keeping my pool clean. Unfortunately my pool was not fully recovered from an algae bloom and in the two days I went without running it it has bloomed up a little bit. At least it will be cheaper to keep under control now!!

 

[bobodaclown]

Congrats. Next time you can't run your pump for a few days, just add chlorine daily and brush the sides down. Chlorine will kill the algae and brushing will mix the water. Dead algae will collect on the bottom of the pool. When the pump gets running. Just vac the dead guys up. No algae bloom.

 

[nomar116]

Congrats. Next time you can't run your pump for a few days, just add chlorine daily and brush the sides down. Chlorine will kill the algae and brushing will mix the water. Dead algae will collect on the bottom of the pool. When the pump gets running. Just vac the dead guys up. No algae bloom.

This is very helpful but obviously I'm confused. I thought running the pump long enough to turn the water over at least once was important in circulating the chlorine to kill algae?

I also can't tell the difference between live or dead algae. I spend a lot of time brushing the entire pool but I spend far less time with my pool cleaner in the pool vacuuming up the dead algae. It makes sense, though, that I would rather vacuum it up than just wait for it to circulate back through the drain after brushing....

 

[JasonLion]

Turnovers are not a criteria for outdoor residential pools. That is an old rule of thumb from commercial pools, that simply doesn't apply to residential pools.

 

[nomar116]

So why am I running the pool pump throughout the day then? Just to vacuum?

 

[JasonLion]

You do want to run the pump 24/7 while fighting algae. But when things are stable all you usually need is about four hours a day of running the pump.

 

[nomar116]

Should I be concerned about air in the pump inlet skimmer? When I first installed the pump the skimmer had no air at all, then after a few minutes I saw the occasional bubble similar to my last pump. Now even at full speed the basket is never completely full. This morning I also noticed it took this new pump longer to fully prime than my old pump. I thought the pump was suppose to hold its prime when not in use?

Here's a video - [video]https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8MbjoWG7FY_ZG9BZ0ZtNW9ZTG8/view?usp=sharing[/video]

The water level is about parallel with the pump's white skimmer basket when the pump is shut off at the end.

 

[JasonLion]

A bubble at the top of the pump strainer basket is normal. Variable speed pumps running below half speed often have more air in the basket than that. But anything beyond that usually indicates a suction side air leak. Losing prime each time the pump is off is also suggestive of an air leak. Take a look at the article in Pool School on finding suction side air leaks.