Pool Trek II: The Wrath of Shock

xjrguy

0
Sep 3, 2008
34
Ok,

Labor Day weekend I completely cleaned the pool. We have had a minor algae bloom since the beginning of the season (SoCal) on the sides of our pool which then moved to the pool bottom. Not a big deal, but a PITA regardless.

I believe it's mustard algae because it looks brownish and basically sweeps right off.

I also disassembled and thoroughly cleaned our Jandy 60 Sq Ft DE filter.

Pool water has always been clean, sparkly and perfect.

Well a couple days ago the Dang algae spots were back on the sides of the pool. Today there was more of it covering part of the shallow end and on the walls.

I had enough so I set the filter to the main drain and completely brushed the entire pool.

Once I was done I really lost it and tossed FIVE BAGS of 1lb shock into the pool because frankly I am going to destroy the Algae like Kirk destroyed Khan. Lets just say tonight was the beginning of PROJECT GENESIS.

I don't think any algae is going to survive in this pool now because I can't even see the bottom of the pool due to the massive amounts of chlorine in the pool now.

See the pic I just took at night.
:hammer:

Prior to my chlorine nuke, the pool was perfect, but it ALWAYS LOOKS THAT WAY and two days later I have the same dame coating of crud on the pool walls.

Tomorrow should be interesting.
 

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There are two approaches to getting rid of persistent mustard algae. The simplest is to shock normally, and then maintain a slightly higher than normal FC level, towards the high end of the recommended range. Normal shocking won't completely get rid of mustard algae, but the higher than normal FC level will prevent it from becoming visible.

To really get rid of it you need to shock to the higher mustard algae shock level, and while you are at that shock level you need to brush everywhere, including all surfaces of the ladders, lighting niches, clean all of the pool tools and the robotic cleaner (if you have one). Mustard algae can survive even high shock levels if it is left undisturbed in some alcove or corner with slightly worse than average circulation. The key to getting rid of it once and for all is to be really through about cleaning everything.
 
Hi,

Thanks for the reply.

I brushed the pool last night and I am going to check it out again after work and brush a second time.

So is my method the third? Nuke the holy heck out of the pool with shock?

I reckon it's kinda like fishing......but with grenades.

I just hope the stuff I put in the pool does not contain any CYA. I read the info and it doesn't appear that it does.

T
 
It is pretty atypical for chlorine products to cloud a pool like that. I'm curious what you used and what was in the pool prior to make it cloud up. Are you running your pump 24/7 and are you seeing a pressure increase?
 
I used Turbo Shock by this company

http://www.archchemicals.com/Fed/Poolif ... /shock.htm

Seriously I was just aggravated and tossed in 5lbs of this stuff.

Usually I just toss in a bag once in a while.

Prior to this the water was crystal clear. The only thing in it was chrlorine (via our SWG). PH level was around 6.8-7.0

The only reason I did this is because I am sick and tired of the same stuff going away and then coming back three days later. It seems it's worse this year than last and I am religious about pool chemistry.

I think I just need to brush the pool more.

We run the pool from 8AM to 4PM which is 8 hours a day.

I've got the Navigator in the pool running all day so hopefully when I get home the pool will be back to normal but super chlorinated.

Going to backwash the filter this weekend (I thoroughly cleaned it labor day, it was a mess of caked DE after 2 years but looks new now)
 
5 lbs of 75% CalHypo would bring the FC in our pool to somewhere around 25ppm....assuming you don't have a diving depth in your pool. That's no big deal. The white cloud is almost surely from the calcium precipitating out of your water.

Since your pH is already (too) low, I am thinking you may have a ton of calcium in the pool. A full set of test results will be very helpful....especially Alk and CYA.

My guess is the calcium will go back into solution in time but you will likely have the same issue again down the road. In fact, if you're serious about getting rid of algae, you'll need to take a longer term approach to your issue and decide how it got there in the first place. A one-time shot of Cal-hypo may clear your water but it won't cure your water.

Testing the parameters of your water and then deciding if they need changing is the whole idea of BBB. Without test results, we're all just guessing at where those parameters might be.
 
Going to backwash the filter this weekend (I thoroughly cleaned it labor day, it was a mess of caked DE after 2 years but looks new now)

I would clean the filter more than just once every two years.

PH level was around 6.8-7.0

Even the Jandy manual wants PH to be between 7.2 and 7.8.
http://www.jandy-downloads.com/pdfs/AquaPure_Manual.pdf


If you only raised the FC to about 25ppm for a one time deal and then let come back down, you ain't going to get rid of mustard algae.

You should reread JasonLion's post.

To really get rid of it you need to shock to the higher mustard algae shock level, and while you are at that shock level you need to brush everywhere, including all surfaces of the ladders, lighting niches, clean all of the pool tools and the robotic cleaner (if you have one). Mustard algae can survive even high shock levels if it is left undisturbed in some alcove or corner with slightly worse than average circulation. The key to getting rid of it once and for all is to be really through about cleaning everything.

And you need to post a full set of test results.
 
Hotrod30 said:
Going to backwash the filter this weekend (I thoroughly cleaned it labor day, it was a mess of caked DE after 2 years but looks new now)

I would clean the filter more than just once every two years.

Agreed....I've gone from pool noob to "getting there" since the remodel two seasons ago. I've religiously backwashed and now I am going to take the filter apart and inspect every other backwash.

PH level was around 6.8-7.0

Even the Jandy manual wants PH to be between 7.2 and 7.8.
http://www.jandy-downloads.com/pdfs/AquaPure_Manual.pdf

Thanks, I missed that for some reason. I will test the water when I get home with my kit and post results.


If you only raised the FC to about 25ppm for a one time deal and then let come back down, you ain't going to get rid of mustard algae.

You should reread JasonLion's post.

Got it, I think the main points I am missing are brushing regularly and keeping the FC up. I've been relying on the Aquapure to keep the water chlorinated and not helping with outside products, other than tossing a bag of the Turbo Shock in once and a while.

To really get rid of it you need to shock to the higher mustard algae shock level, and while you are at that shock level you need to brush everywhere, including all surfaces of the ladders, lighting niches, clean all of the pool tools and the robotic cleaner (if you have one). Mustard algae can survive even high shock levels if it is left undisturbed in some alcove or corner with slightly worse than average circulation. The key to getting rid of it once and for all is to be really through about cleaning everything.

And you need to post a full set of test results.

I'm at work now and I performed the shock late last night at around 11PM so I will retest the water after work.

Again, the water in the pool has always been crystal clear. I've never had green water, smells, etc. It's just the buildup on the pool walls, and recently the bottom that has gotten me frustrated. Last year we ran our Hayward Navigator 8 hours a day, so the pool NEVER had anything on the walls or bottom. We recently got an Aquabot Turbo T2 and since you can't keep that in the water 24/7 like the Navigator there hasn't been daily cleaning done like when the Hayward was running with the pump 8 hrs.

Thank you for the replies, I should have more details around 6PM PST when I get back home.
 
PH is 7.6 so I was way off in my estimation so I am within limits there.

CC is higher than 5.0PPM (thats as high as my vial shows, but it is dark yellow like a dehydrated person going to the bathroom)
FC is the same thing, same color and off the charts

I don't have enough CYA liquid reagent to test that so we'll have to hold off on that.

My test kit said TA and Bromine can't be tested accurately when CC/FC is above 3.0PPM

Pool cloudiness (due to my 5lb BOMBING of Turbo Shock) is clearing up. There was white substance on the steps and the spa and I am guessing that is Turbo Shock settling on the surface. I brushed that up and it got cloudy in the area it was sitting.

I brushed the pool again when I got home and have the Navigator running again with the pump (it was on for 8 hours today already)

The Jandy SWG was also running today @ 80%

There is nothing growing on the walls of the pool.

I will test the chlorine levels again tomorrow morning before work (if I have time)

The pump definitely needs a backwash now. On my vacuum line (where the PSI is usually at 8-9 psi when clean) is reading 18psi. When I run the skimmer the PSI is always around 4-5 PSI higher than when I run straight vacuum line.

Tim
 

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Hi, Tim,

Until you decide to get your own good test kit, you'll need to help us by taking a sample to the pool store. Your CYA is very important (I'm guessing it's gonna' be pretty high) and your Calcium Hardness (CH) is probably up there, too.

There's good reading up in our "Pool School" which will help you get a handle on the normal parameters for these tests. I'd spend some time reading up there and post back those pool store samples.

Be prepared to drain some of your pool if your Calcium and CYA is really high but let's get test results before we jump to any conclusions.
 
I'm hoping/guessing that the CYA is not going to be off the charts.

I recently check the CYA in the pool and it was at 0. That was a couple months ago.

I had put CYA in the pool and it was at 50PPM but that was last year during the warm season.

This year prior to summer I put the same amount in and at the time (couple months ago when I saw it was back down to 0) I put the same amount as the previous year and measured 0.

I would guess that the CYA is at 50PPM or lower but I will definitely get it checked and replenish/replace the CYA reagent in my test kit.

We are going to take some water to the pool store this weekend (or perhaps earlier)

I'll post more details as I have them.

Thanks!
 
Hey all,

I forgot to post the results.

Check out how the water in our pool "pops" now. It sparkles.

The pool cleaned up perfectly.

All the chlorine I dumped in killed the algae. My second backwash helped a bunch too.

Water is perfect!

First two pics are the pool, and the third is the spa. Crystal clear.

Thanks for all the replies too! :-D
 

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