Pool Newbie - Need Help - TF100 Test Results

Aug 5, 2014
51
Oviedo, FL
Below are my test results, this is more than a week after the pool builder put their chemicals in, which include stabilizer. I would assume these tests legit.

Test Result (Target)

FC: 1 (4)
PH: 8.2 (7.6)
TA: 80 (80)
CH: 225 (300)
CYA: 80 (75)
Salt: Salt call says 4450, AquaChek test strip #1 said 830, test strip #2 said 1550 (3700)
Water Temp: 79F
Air Temp: 91F

Big difference with the salt numbers - yesterday I turned my salt cell (IC40) to 0% because I saw that it was reading 4450ppm. Now the strips read super low but the EasyTouch system still shows high. A little confused. Thank you in advance.
 
Well, if the SWG is happy and generating away then I would not worry about it too much. If it complains about high salt, then you would have to replace some water.
It is pretty odd that a SWG reads higher than the independent test, but test strips can be pretty hit and miss.

Beyond that,
Get the pH back down in the 7s and add some bleach to get your FC level up ASAP. Your FC should NEVER be below 4ppm with your 80ppm of CYA, so you likely want to target up around 5-6ppm.
 
I'm a little confused also.. you said.. "yesterday I turned my salt cell (IC40) to 0% because I saw that it was reading 4450ppm. Now the strips read super low but the EasyTouch system still shows high. A little confused."

I can't understand why you would turn off the SWG? Your FC is only 1 and you are shooting for 4, so if anything I would have thought you'd want to turn it up, not down to 0. Maybe I just misunderstand, but your statement makes it appear that you think the 'Salt Cell' makes salt and because it was reading too high you turned it down. In reality, the cell is using the salt in the pool water to make chlorine and the % control allows you to adjust your FC level. The EasyTouch just reports how much salt the cell measures in the water.

Jim R.
 
I put WAY too much salt in my pool a couple of years ago because i didn't know that cold water made the warning light meaningless. I didn't have to add salt to the pool for two years. And it tasted pretty salty. Didn't test it because it was making chlorine. I don't think the IC40 minds having too much salt.
 
When high salt is blinking salt is over 4500 ppm but generator will still make chlorine. You can drain and refill to dilute salt if you want to, but it is not necessary for chlorine production.
 
Here is a link to the levels you want to maintain in your pool Water Balance for SWCGs.

You want your FC to be between 4-6ppm. Your setting in the IC40 depends on pump run time and chlorine demand. How long do you run your pump? You can probably start at 40% and test chlorine at the end of the day to see what your level is.
 
Here is a link covering pump run time Determining Pump Run Time.

You can probably start with a run time of 2 hours in the morning and 2 hours in the evening. Maybe start with the pump at 1500 rpm and see if you get sufficient skimming and the pool stays clean. Check the FC and you can either increase chlorine % or increase run time if FC is too high or decrease % or pump run time to lower FC.
 

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I can't understand why you would turn off the SWG? Your FC is only 1 and you are shooting for 4, so if anything I would have thought you'd want to turn it up, not down to 0. Maybe I just misunderstand, but your statement makes it appear that you think the 'Salt Cell' makes salt and because it was reading too high you turned it down.

Guilty as charged. I knew the SWG didn't generate salt and in the moment, got extremely confused. I'm slowly getting a handle. Thanks again for the help.
 
No worries, it definitely takes some time, some trial and error and some reading to get it all figured out.

Might try 20% to start since you are running 8 hours right now.
 
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