New pool own - White water mold / pink algae

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C

Calleblanc77

0
Jul 3, 2014
16
The Woodlands, TX
I have a lot of what looks like dead skin in my pool and the research I have done it seems to be white water mold or pink algae I would assume. I normally run about .5-1ppm FC and I recently let it get very low. I have shocked the pool to about 7ppm a couple days ago and I still see particles in the pool.

My current levels
FC 4
Ph 7.6
TA 85
CH 300
CYA. 45
Phosphates 200
Water temp 78

Do I need to put algaecide in and if so what kind do you recommend? Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated as I feel like my numbers are pretty spot on and I am not sure how to get completely rid of this.
 
Hello and Welcome,

I'll be blunt, but don't mistake it for being harsh. We hardly, if ever suggest Alagaecides.

Your normal level of 0.5 -1.0 PPM will never keep you out of the white/pink situation. These residuals are what allowed it to grow, and that really isn't adequate FC even in an indoor pool with zero Cya. With an outdoor pool such as yours, you have to have Cya, and the FC to be in proportion with it. Cya requires a little more FC, so a 0.5-1.0 in your outdoor pool is equal to Zero FC.

We will suggest a SLAM. It's a controlled shocking process, where you elevate the FC to shock level, and keep it there until everything is killed and the water is clear.

It requires a type of FC test that goes to high ranges that are required. The level is based on your Cya level. With your current Cya level of 45, and the normal residual you have, there is essentially zero FC in the pool. Even with 4 PPM, there will not be enough to overcome your situation, and from here, its a matter of time before you have an Algae outbreak. Also, we ignore phosphates almost without exception, so don't worry about those.

May I ask what you are using for testing?
 
Welcome!

I'm going to guess that if you are using the HC-3315 Chlorinator as your source of chlorine that the CYA number you have may be way off.

If you don't already have one, you will need to pick up one of the recommended test kits. To effectively practice the TFPC methods, the FAS/DPD chlorine test is essential. All the kits on the list contain that test while very few other kits do. The kits sold at the pool store generally won't won't cut it, but be careful pool store employees are known to say “it's the same thing”. Generally it's not!
 
I have stopped using the chlorinator and have gone to bleach about a month ago. For a test kit I am using a Taylor 2006c Test Kit.

- - - Updated - - -

Patrick_B said:
Hello and Welcome,

I'll be blunt, but don't mistake it for being harsh. We hardly, if ever suggest Alagaecides.

Your normal level of 0.5 -1.0 PPM will never keep you out of the white/pink situation. These residuals are what allowed it to grow, and that really isn't adequate FC even in an indoor pool with zero Cya. With an outdoor pool such as yours, you have to have Cya, and the FC to be in proportion with it. Cya requires a little more FC, so a 0.5-1.0 in your outdoor pool is equal to Zero FC.

We will suggest a SLAM. It's a controlled shocking process, where you elevate the FC to shock level, and keep it there until everything is killed and the water is clear.

It requires a type of FC test that goes to high ranges that are required. The level is based on your Cya level. With your current Cya level of 45, and the normal residual you have, there is essentially zero FC in the pool. Even with 4 PPM, there will not be enough to overcome your situation, and from here, its a matter of time before you have an Algae outbreak. Also, we ignore phosphates almost without exception, so don't worry about those.

May I ask what you are using for testing?
Click to expand...

I have stopped using the chlorinator and have gone to bleach about a month ago for my Chlorine. For a test kit I am using a Taylor 2006c Test Kit. Can you educate me on this SLAM method and how it is done? Are all my numbers inline or do you see anything that is out of wack?
 
pooldv has given you the link to the specific instructions, but understand a SLAM is a continuous process, not a one night addition of chlorine that many call "shocking" the pool. Additionally, you need to use liquid chlorine; 8.25% bleach or 10/12.5% chlorinating liquid.

Keeping the pool at shock levels of FC as long as it takes to kill everything in the water. Don't be in a hurry because it is going to take time. But, if you don't want to go through this again do it right the first time.

It basically looks like this:
Adjust pH
Test FC Level
Add liquid chlorine to shock level - Test to make surer you got there.
Brush pool
Test FC Level
Add liquid chlorine to shock level - Test to make surer you got there.
Test FC Level
Add liquid chlorine to shock level - Test to make surer you got there.
Test FC Level
Add liquid chlorine to shock level - Test to make surer you got there.
Test FC Level
Add liquid chlorine to shock level - Test to make surer you got there.
Test FC Level
Add liquid chlorine to shock level - Test to make surer you got there.
Test FC Level
Add liquid chlorine to shock level - Test to make surer you got there.
Test FC Level
Add liquid chlorine to shock level - Test to make surer you got there.
Test FC Level
Add liquid chlorine to shock level - Test to make surer you got there.
Brush Pool

You keep up this cycle until:

CC is 0.5 or lower;
You pass an OCLT (ie overnight FC loss test shows a loss of 1.0 ppm or less);
The water is clear.

When all three are true, you are done SLAMing and can allow the FC to drift down to normal levels.

Don't stop early - don't guess, the FAS-DPD test kit is your friend.
 
Calleblanc77 said:
I have stopped using the chlorinator and have gone to bleach about a month ago. For a test kit I am using a Taylor 2006c Test Kit.
Click to expand...

Yes, but just your FC, and I'm sorry for not seeing the 2006 kit in your Sig last night. Keeping the FC so low and having growth as you mention will overload it easily, and drop you under target. If you don't have visible Algae now, it may be a pretty easy SLAM procedure for you. Read about it in the link pooldv showed you, but ask questions here if you have them before you start. We'll be here to help if you need it. If there is any White/Pink Mold adhered to anything, you need to scrub it and detach it from anywhere it resides. Once it's exposed to the elevated FC during SLAM it will be killed.

Although it isn't bad, You need to push your pH down just a little. Use Pool math and target 7.3. With your current pH and TA, it wont take a lot of acid so dose carefully. If you run into a snag with that before you start, just ask here first. Once you begin SLAM, forget about pH until you are done.
 
[QUOTE="Calleblank77']Do I need to put algaecide in and if so what kind do you recommend?[/QUOTE]

As others have stated, algaecides are rarely recommended.

If indeed you have “Pink Algae” (or more aptly-named Pink Slime), it is technically not an algae but rather a bacterium of the genus Methylobacterium. Pigments within its cells give it its distinctive pink color. The slime formed around the bacteria provides it with a high level of protection. In addition to clinging to the walls of a pool, it has an affinity for PVC plastics and will attach itself to both the inside and the outside of PVC materials that are a part of, or attached to, the pool. This includes your pool’s plumbing as well as your cleaner/vacuum.

Since pink slime is a bacterium, it is considered “animal” as opposed to “plant” like true algae. Therefore, algaecides are completely ineffective on pink slime. You will need to go through the SLAM Process process to eradicate it. During this process, the pool walls should be brushed at least daily and the pump should be run 24/7 until the SLAM Process process is complete. Be sure to check filter pressure and clean/backwash as needed.
 
tim5055 said:
pooldv has given you the link to the specific instructions, but understand a SLAM is a continuous process, not a one night addition of chlorine that many call "shocking" the pool. Additionally, you need to use liquid chlorine; 8.25% bleach or 10/12.5% chlorinating liquid.

Keeping the pool at shock levels of FC as long as it takes to kill everything in the water. Don't be in a hurry because it is going to take time. But, if you don't want to go through this again do it right the first time.

It basically looks like this:
Adjust pH
Test FC Level
Add liquid chlorine to shock level - Test to make surer you got there.
Brush pool
Test FC Level
Add liquid chlorine to shock level - Test to make surer you got there.
Test FC Level
Add liquid chlorine to shock level - Test to make surer you got there.
Test FC Level
Add liquid chlorine to shock level - Test to make surer you got there.
Test FC Level
Add liquid chlorine to shock level - Test to make surer you got there.
Test FC Level
Add liquid chlorine to shock level - Test to make surer you got there.
Test FC Level
Add liquid chlorine to shock level - Test to make surer you got there.
Test FC Level
Add liquid chlorine to shock level - Test to make surer you got there.
Test FC Level
Add liquid chlorine to shock level - Test to make surer you got there.
Brush Pool

You keep up this cycle until:

CC is 0.5 or lower;
You pass an OCLT (ie overnight FC loss test shows a loss of 1.0 ppm or less);
The water is clear.

When all three are true, you are done SLAMing and can allow the FC to drift down to normal levels.

Don't stop early - don't guess, the FAS-DPD test kit is your friend.
Click to expand...

I can say i have alot less "skin looking flakes" in the pool today than i did 3 days ago before i brought the PH up from 1 to 7. I just did a Chlorine and PH check and CH was 5.6 and CC 0 and PH 7.6. The kids have only been in the pool a couple of times in the past 3 weeks and we just got the pool built in Nov 2014 so we really have not been in it. I am running my pump at low rpms 1750 for 12hrs a day in (2) 6hr increments.

I do alot of research on here as i am a first time new pool owner and i want to maintain the pool on my own as i actually like doing it and i know i can with the help of this amazing forum and you guys. I brush about 3 - 4 times a week and check my levels almost daily as being a new pool owner i am pretty obsessed. I have a few questions that i am uncertain about.

1. What do you consider FC Shock Level and what do you recommend for a normal running FC Level?
2. In The Woodlands, TX my pool gets 100% sunlight till the late afternoon as the sun goes from the back of my house to the front of it so i get the late afternoon shade and we don't have any trees. What do you think is a good target CYA level is for my conditions?
3. With summer time coming when do you recommend "shocking" the pool? Is it when the CC level gets to a certain number and if so what is that CC target number?
 
Calleblanc77 said:
1. What do you consider FC Shock Level and what do you recommend for a normal running FC Level?
2. In The Woodlands, TX my pool gets 100% sunlight till the late afternoon as the sun goes from the back of my house to the front of it so i get the late afternoon shade and we don't have any trees. What do you think is a good target CYA level is for my conditions?
3. With summer time coming when do you recommend "shocking" the pool? Is it when the CC level gets to a certain number and if so what is that CC target number?
Click to expand...
The link pooldv gave has the SLAM instructions including the link to the link to the FC/CYA chart. I don't want to seem harsh, we want to help you, but please read what is suggested.

As to your second question, they FC/.CYA table gives recommended CYA levels. Lots of sun on the pool means err to the higher side of recomended for your pool.

Following our system you NEVER shock your pool.

Yo have to get the SLAM started, but how much Pool School have you read? Start with these:
ABCs of Water Chemistry
Recommended Pool Chemicals
How to Chlorinate Your Pool
 

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