Removed Heater, What can I use to reroute the plumbing

[mose]

Hello Mates,

The attached pictures are worth a 1000 words that I can't seem to come up with to describe what I need.

Basically, I need to know where I can get a prefabbed PVC fitting to plug the holes in my pool plumbing....Or....Do they make such a part.....?

Mose

 

[Patrick_B]

The easiest thing is to cut the pipe unless the unions are threaded in. After cutting, simply loop those two ends together and let the flow remain that way. You don't want to plug them and create a dead leg.

 

[mose]

I'll give that a try. Thanks Mate.

 

[jblizzle]

If the heater is permanently removed, I agree just cut off what you need to figure out a way to connect those 2 lines.
If you may put the heater back at some point, that may be more tricky as I am not sure you can find the mating union parts that have the same threads.

 

[elwood58]

I assume you also have bypass valve to take that route completely out of the picture? If so, why not leave it as-is, so you can replace the heater in the future.

 

[jblizzle]

There is no bypass line. You can see it come right out of the filter.

 

[mose]

Yes, you are correct there is not a bypass, which is something I intend to change when the new heater is plumbed in (when I find the right deal on a 400k BTU heater).

I followed the majority advice and just cut that sucker off (both open ended pipes). Went to Home Depot and got the necessary PVC 90 degree elbows, straight pipe, primer and glue and slapped them on.

Thank You all Again for the good advice....mose

 

[Patrick_B]

Excellent, I was hoping you'd do that. When you get the new heater, it should come with all the proper unions. Mine did anyway, put in last year. Good job man.

 

[mose]

Here is a pic of the plumbed Heater pipes.

I ran into another issue. I turned the breaker back on but I'm not getting any electricity to the pool equipment. It seems as though removing the heater has caused an issue with the electrical system.

I left all the wires hooked up so everything will be ready and in place for the new heater but I have not ordered the heater yet. I want to be able to run my pool while I research the new heater.

Any ideas on this electrical wiring issue.....?

 

[JasonLion]

Check the breakers and make sure they all actually turned on. If you have a sub-panel for the pool, also check the breaker for the sub-panel that is in the main panel.

 

[carlp]

mose,
What is that last picture you posted? Are those the wires that were previously attached your heater, that are coming from somewhere else in your pool equipment?

A few things:

1. How many breakers are there for this equipment? Was there a separate breaker for the heater?
2. Even if you are absolutely sure that the wires in your picture are connected to a breaker that is turned off, it is dangerous to leave them exposed on the ground. You never know when someone might turn on a breaker accidentally. Ideally I'd like to see them wire nutted and sitting inside a grounded outdoor rated junction box.
3. Can you trace the wires and figure out where they are coming from? It is possible that the power was fed through a box on the heater, to other equipment (although I'm not sure why they would have done that).

 

[mose]

After removing Heater, yesterday I turned the on the breaker but got no electricity to my equipment. I then turned the breaker off, traced the wires back to the Hayward control panel and disconnected them. I then turned the breaker back on and again still got no electricity to the pool equipment.

1. There was a single breaker box added for the construction of the pool. That breaker box is located on the outside wall next to the pool equipment.

2. Not knowing what to do with the wire ends I capped them, wrapped them in plastic and ran them into an enclosed wooden box. They are still in the box but also disconnected from the Hayward control panel.

3. I checked all breakers in and outside of house and I am still not getting power to the equipment. Three pic's of equip, fence behind me so I couldn't get everything in one picture. Breaker box is closed in one pic and opened in the next.

This really has me stumped.

 

[Kiss4aFrog]

What is the model # of the control panel ??

Is there some safety where the panel sees the heater as an open circuit and locks power out of all the equipment ??

 

[JasonLion]

You need to get a meter and trace back until you get to something that has power. Where ever it is, the space between the last location with power and the first location without power is the source of the problem.

 

[carlp]

2 more questions:
1. Is there power at the outlet below the panel? It is a GFCI, can you reset it?
2. Can you take a picture inside the Hayward panel?

 

[ldcsteelers]

It looks like the power is coming in from the square D panel on the right via the conduit that goes to the bottom of the siding and off to the right in the pic. If that breaker is off the whole system could be off.

 

[mose]

What is the model # of the control panel ??

Is there some safety where the panel sees the heater as an open circuit and locks power out of all the equipment ??

Here are some pics of the board. Let me know if this gives any clues. I do know that the Control panel is obsolete and I want to replace it next month but for now I just need to get the pump and filter to cycle. Any Ideas on how to get power to pump and bypass everything else.

This really has me stumped.

 

[mose]

What is the model # of the control panel ??

Is there some safety where the panel sees the heater as an open circuit and locks power out of all the equipment ??

Here are some pics of the board. Let me know if this gives any clues. I do know that the Control panel is obsolete and I want to replace it next month but for now I just need to get the pump and filter to cycle. Any Ideas on how to get power to pump and bypass everything else.

 

[carlp]

Sorry mose, its hard to debug remotely, and I'd hate to have you get into trouble by taking our advice without being there. Do you have someone electrically inclined who could help you with this? If you just want to be able to run the filter pump, and someone has the right tools to determine which wires are live, I expect they could bypass everything inside the hayward box and just wire the pump directly to the incoming AC Lines coming from the breaker. Then the pump would run any time the breaker is on. Make sure that they pay attention to the voltage -- the box has 220V in it, and the pump may be 110V or 220V.