As the title says, I have an Aquarite generator. Board has been replaced twice, most recently end of last summer. Generating light is on, but power light is off. No chlorine in the pool. Do I need to replace the board again?
Aquarite Power Light Off - Generating Light On, No Chlorine
- Thread starter andrewm
- Start date
If you could scroll through the diagnostic readings and post what they are, we could better assist you.
Welcome to TFP!
Remember to add chlorine manually while the SWG isn't working.
It wouldn't hurt to post a complete set of water test results as well.
Remember to add chlorine manually while the SWG isn't working.
It wouldn't hurt to post a complete set of water test results as well.
75 degrees
26.5 volts
6.38 amps
69% output
3200 ppm salinity
- - - Updated - - -
Just had a sample analyzed last week. Don't have the numbers in front of me, but other than no chlorine, everything was fine. Just needed to add 4 lbs of stabilizer.
26.5 volts
6.38 amps
69% output
3200 ppm salinity
- - - Updated - - -
Just had a sample analyzed last week. Don't have the numbers in front of me, but other than no chlorine, everything was fine. Just needed to add 4 lbs of stabilizer.
Those diagnostic readings suggest that the SWG is working correctly.
I suspect that chlorine is being generated just fine, but it is getting used up nearly as quickly as it is being created. Low CYA levels could cause that, as could a low level algae problem.
I suspect that chlorine is being generated just fine, but it is getting used up nearly as quickly as it is being created. Low CYA levels could cause that, as could a low level algae problem.
We need water test results and which test kit was used to get them. Without those we can not say what to add.
pH
FC
TA
CYA
CH
It has power if your generating LED is on and the diagnostics are showing 6+ amps output. Although unlikely, maybe the power LED is burned out.
Well I confirmed the board isn't working from Hayward. I've been in this house four years and this will be the third replacement board. Shouldn't these last longer than that? Only a 90 day parts warranty. What a scam.
Yes they should last longer than that. There's probably something wrong other than the board. Where did you buy the other two boards?
The diagnostics you posted indicate that the unit is working just fine. If the diagnostics are still the same, it's working.
Try removing and reinstalling the display board.
The main boards last fairly long. Pretty much, the only thing that ever fails is the thermistor, and those are easy to replace.
Try removing and reinstalling the display board.
The main boards last fairly long. Pretty much, the only thing that ever fails is the thermistor, and those are easy to replace.
I had a short on the display board so placed a small piece of paper folded once or twice on the left side below the digital display. That kept the display board from moving when I pressed the button or switch.
Good day, private message your phone number and I will call to help and post my finding on the board later.
Alright, now I'm stumped. Replaced the board, power light still off. Here are all my numbers from the screen:
2900
90
25.5
6.62
71P
-3000
AL-0
r1.59
t-15
Latest water test results:
TC-0
FC-0
CC-0.5
pH-7.2
CH-400
TA-60
CYA-50
This was my first time testing with my new TF-100 kit. Only had test strips before, but I knew I had no FC. So I've been adding one bottle of 8.25% bleach every few days until my kit and new board came in. I'm running the pump overnight to see if this new board is generating chlorine. But I suspect that it won't and that I have another problem with the SWG system. Since I've been manually adding bleach, the water has cleared up and the algae is gone. Just need the SWG to start working.
2900
90
25.5
6.62
71P
-3000
AL-0
r1.59
t-15
Latest water test results:
TC-0
FC-0
CC-0.5
pH-7.2
CH-400
TA-60
CYA-50
This was my first time testing with my new TF-100 kit. Only had test strips before, but I knew I had no FC. So I've been adding one bottle of 8.25% bleach every few days until my kit and new board came in. I'm running the pump overnight to see if this new board is generating chlorine. But I suspect that it won't and that I have another problem with the SWG system. Since I've been manually adding bleach, the water has cleared up and the algae is gone. Just need the SWG to start working.
n240sxguy
Well-known member
I don't know why the power light is not on, but those numbers indicate that it is working. 25.5 volts. 6.62 amps. That's making chlorine.
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
It's working. Most likely the main board was fine. I think the the power led light is just burned out. The lights are on the display board. I would ignore the light and just check the diagnostics. As long as they're in range, it's fine.
At this point, you should follow the slam process.
At this point, you should follow the slam process.
Well that makes me mad that Hayward tech support would assume the board is bad if the power light is off. They never had me run through the diagnostics. However, when I called them, the power light was actually flickering on and off. They had me turn off the pump, wait a few minutes and restart. The power light was off then. So if the old board was fine, I'll see if I can return this one and get a replacement display instead.
So I set it to superchlorinate tonight. If it's working, shouldn't I see some chlorine in the morning?
So I set it to superchlorinate tonight. If it's working, shouldn't I see some chlorine in the morning?
Answered my own question. Saw a faint cloud coming out of the jets, so I assume that's chlorine. Took a sample right out of the jets and sure enough, it's got chlorine. Until I got this test kit, I had no way to figure that out for sure. Finally have that figured out. Now to slam.
The display board sits in front of the main board. It's mounted on four plastic stands. There are 6 to 8 solid wires coming off of the main board and that go through holes in the display board. Perhaps one of the wires is not making good contact. Perhaps due to a misaligned wire or perhaps corrosion on the contact point on the display board. Sometimes removing and resetting the board helps. It could just be a burned out led.