Slamming questions.

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BrunetteNTx

BrunetteNTx

0
May 26, 2013
32
Lufkin, Tx
I will try not to make this a story.
Pool
Lost pool cover in Jan. Some leaves in bottom of pool.
Have been dipping off and on for most of day. Most are in the center now.
added 2 pds granular sanitizer that i had laying around yesterday before i found the SLAM instructions so
know i have no idea if my PH is correct. Got up this morning i was able to at least see the brown blobs of leaves (couldn't
see that yesterday) and
added 2 gal of liquid chlorine kemtec brand this morning .
Went to town could not find the FAS-dpd kit at leslies so i got the DPD kit and have tested my water
according to the instructions. This is what i got with the test Kit
FC 5ppm
TC 5ppm
if i calculate it right that would be 0 FC correct?
CYA 35PPM
PH has got to be above 8.0 because its color looks to be brighter then 8.0
So i have looked at the chlorine/cya chart but i am confused. I do have a salt system but it is not plugged in right now
as i figured it more important to get the green out of the pool first.
So, do i need to stop and get my PH correct and then proceed with the SLAM?
Do i follow the chlorine/cya chart for a SWG or NonSWG?
Just a few of my million question :grin:

- - - Updated - - -

well i guess my siguature didn't add so here it goes:
East Texas
16x48 above ground metal frame intex pool
new 1500 filter pump
intex salt system
 
Welcome to TFP Brunette :wave:

Yes, you need to adjust the pH before SLAM, but you don't have the proper kit (Chlorine kit) for doing that. They are not usually anywhere in stores.

You need a FAS/DPD kit because what you have will not range high enough for a SLAM.

If your test is correct and let's assume it is, you would have 5 PPM FC not 0. You might be thinking about CC (Combined Chlorine) but I don't think your kit shows CC. Does it have a test for CC or Total Chlorine, or just FC?
 
almost impossible to find FAS/ DPD in stores. Here is a link to where to get it. www.tftestkits.net. Click on the 'refills'
you need the R0003
R0871 and R0870

As Patrick says, you need to get your PH down before slamming.
As for which chart to use, - for slamming it doesnt matter. You use the column on the far right of the CHlorine / CYA chart.
with CYA of 35, (consider it for for slam purposes) your SLAM level for chlorine is 16
 
Thanks for the reply guys:)
My test kit does the following:
free and total chlorine or bromine, ph, acid & base demand, total alkalinity, calcium hardness, cranuric acid.
I have a r0003 in this test box but i don't have r081 or r 0870..
And yes i mean't CC not FC (dang kid) !
It says to get CC you have to use formula of tc-fc=cc
after i tested the above post i added a 3rd jug of chlorine and just got back home and tested again:
still at 5 ppm fc
still at 5 ppm tc
which makes CC=0
but, my CYA has rose to 50ppm
I guess i need to go and read up on the PH stuff again and try to figure out how much acid i need to use for my pool.
I spend 80 bucks on this test kit today..I did not know it couldn't be bought in most store:)

I bought a bottle of green algae eliminator but it says i have to get PH down to use it as well
Last night, overnight i lost all fc..when i got up this morning and tested it was at 0!

off to do more reading!
and maybe get my sig to work!
Stacey

- - - Updated - - -

Oh and i should just let the pool go back to 0 fc to fix the ph correct?
Forgot to ask this
 
Hi Stacey
Do not let the FC go to 0. You can add Muriatic acid to lower the Ph as long as FC is lower than 10.
Do you know how to use Pool Math? Here is a link to it. Ask if you need to help figuring it out.
http://www.troublefreepool.com/calc.html

And yes, TC-FC=CC.

The CYA test is tricky. Available light has a lot to do with teh accuracy. Dont worry though, we all go through that learning curve. I would recommend to measure CYA again.
Go outside on sunny day and mix the CYA mix. Turn your back to the sun, and hold the test tube at waist level and squirt the mixture into the tube until the black dot disappears.

you can use the same mixture to repeat the test, just pout it back in the bottle and repeat a few times ...

I would not recommend using the algae eliminator. It very likely contains copper which can stain your pool.
Chlorine will kill it faster than the copper based products will.

Your description of the test kit you have sounds like a Taylor K2005. Is it?

To measure FC higher than 5, you need the R0870 and the R0871. Page 2 of that test kit website has a combination pack that will save you a couple of dollars. If you are going to SLAM, you have got to be able to measure high levels of Chlorine.
 
Good Morning all,
First thing first...I went to website and found this test kit for 26$ it has a powder. I assume that is ok and here is the discription
FAS/DPD Chlorine & CC's test
2 oz R-0871 Reagent
10 g R-0870 DPD Powder
40 ml cylinder
Scoop
.75 oz R-0003 Reagent
This FAS/DPD Test will test Free Chlorine up to 50+ppm with an accuracy of .5ppm. (.2ppm if you really need to be precise) Additionally, it contains the R-0003 reagent so you can test for combined chloramines.

I believe this is what i need to order :) Please correct me if i am wrong.
Tested again this morning. I did the entire kit this morning and here are my readings:

More then 5ppm fc (have no clue the actually number cause dummy me didn't buy the above mentioned kit)
more than 5ppm tc ^^^^^ :)
makes that 0 cc ...sigh ^^^again....
bromide 10 ppm
cya 45 I did as you suggested about testing at waist level..tested several time also!
It took me 30 drops to get to red on ALK so that makes it 300 ppm
Cal hardness took 30 drops as well to get to a shade of blue so thats 300 ppm
And lastly the Ph..It is going to be above a 8.0 so i did the acid demand test it took 5 drops to get it to the correct level.
Checked the book that come with the kit and it stated 5 drops at 5000 gallon pool would =1.43 pt of muriatic acid.
Does this seem about right?
My kit appears to be a k2005
Pool is a nice shade of blue white and green.
About to throw in 2 more jugs chlorinating liquid:)
Let me know if that is the correct kit i need i want to order it asap!
I am on vacation and want to get this pool finished before i go back to work LOL
Thanks for all your help!
Stacey
East Tx
5000 gallon
intex 16x48 above ground metal pool
new filter pump intex 1500gpm
swg by intex (not currently hooked up)
 
Hi again,
The FAS/DPD kit is the right one. Get it.

I would recommend to test TA again to make sure there isnt a mistake. TA of 300 is way high. What TA does is help buffer the PH rise. Until you get the TA down, you can expect to have to lower Ph every day.

Good deal on measuring the CYA! Sounds to me like its 45! Thats good. Dont do anything more with it. With a CYA of 45, you should aim for FC of 6 and never let it get below 4 for regular maintenance. For SLAM, you FC level is 20.

There is no reason to test for Bromide. That is used in Hot Tubs.

For Ph, I dont know if 1.43 pints is right or not but its close! You dont mention exactlhy the PH level you are aiming for. What target you aim for is part of the equation to determine how much MA to add. I used pool math and plugged on your pool volume and used a NOW ph of 8.2 (the highest you can test for) and a TARGET Ph of 7.4 with TA at 300. Pool Math says to add 28 oz. of Muriatic. (FWIW, I trust pool math more than I trust my mother!).

CH isnt really of any consequence in a vinyl liner pool unless it gets way high, like +500 or more. No need to test it unless you just want to.

The Taylor K2005 is a great kit, just missing the FAS DPD. It will serve you well!

Hope this helps,







BrunetteNTx said:
Good Morning all,
First thing first...I went to website and found this test kit for 26$ it has a powder. I assume that is ok and here is the discription
FAS/DPD Chlorine & CC's test
2 oz R-0871 Reagent
10 g R-0870 DPD Powder
40 ml cylinder
Scoop
.75 oz R-0003 Reagent
This FAS/DPD Test will test Free Chlorine up to 50+ppm with an accuracy of .5ppm. (.2ppm if you really need to be precise) Additionally, it contains the R-0003 reagent so you can test for combined chloramines.

I believe this is what i need to order :) Please correct me if i am wrong.
Tested again this morning. I did the entire kit this morning and here are my readings:

More then 5ppm fc (have no clue the actually number cause dummy me didn't buy the above mentioned kit)
more than 5ppm tc ^^^^^ :)
makes that 0 cc ...sigh ^^^again....
bromide 10 ppm
cya 45 I did as you suggested about testing at waist level..tested several time also!
It took me 30 drops to get to red on ALK so that makes it 300 ppm
Cal hardness took 30 drops as well to get to a shade of blue so thats 300 ppm
And lastly the Ph..It is going to be above a 8.0 so i did the acid demand test it took 5 drops to get it to the correct level.
Checked the book that come with the kit and it stated 5 drops at 5000 gallon pool would =1.43 pt of muriatic acid.
Does this seem about right?
My kit appears to be a k2005
Pool is a nice shade of blue white and green.
About to throw in 2 more jugs chlorinating liquid:)
Let me know if that is the correct kit i need i want to order it asap!
I am on vacation and want to get this pool finished before i go back to work LOL
Thanks for all your help!
Stacey
East Tx
5000 gallon
intex 16x48 above ground metal pool
new filter pump intex 1500gpm
swg by intex (not currently hooked up)
Click to expand...
 
Hello all.

Tested again today. Did not do much of anything with it yesterday but add 1 jug of chlorine. It was pouring down rain and i have been sick for the last 3 days just getting progressively worse. Probably all this algae in pool LOL silly pool! I MUST be better before Friday I am going to my first NASCAR race!
Cleaned pump first thing this morning and must say there is a lot of very white matter floating around in there! Flushed it out..back to town for more chlorine.
Continued pulling as many leaves out of the middle as possible till i lost my pool brush ..yes, in the white abyss... Not feeling to confortable climbing off in there. But still cant see all we way down to get it out...sobs:(
So, after the two cups (there about) of muratic acid and a day of rain i have a PH of 7.4. I tested in the day after i put it in and it had not dropped any that i could tell so don't know what happened with a delayed reading.
cya is between 50/60
5 still on TC (kit is ordered waiting..)
3 of FC which is a change
so that makes my CC a 2
Alk 225 ppm..
7.4 ph

added 2 bags of chlorine that i got a leslie's ..
Im really just waiting on that test kit ...

So at what point does the SWG get to turn on?

Thanks

Stacey
East Tx
5000 gallon
intex 16x48 above ground metal pool
new filter pump intex 1500gpm
swg by intex (not currently hooked up)
 
Later when you are done with the SLAM.

Once you get the kit, you'll have to hit it hard and stay after it to get this resolved, but in that size pool it's easier in terms of hauling and adding less bleach than a big pool.
 

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Thanks everyone!
Filter was really bad this morning. Might have to do a replace in a day or two.
I went out and looked at my bags from Leslie's and they say:
power powder plus step 3
calcium hypochlorite 73%
other ingredients 27%
max 70 % chlorine
I tested my cya it was between 50/60 yesterday and now i am at a 40
5 ppm fc (and it truly will be a 5 the color matched perfectly)
5 ppm tc
0 cc
ph 8.0 added another 2 1/4 cups of Muratic acid
tested the ch this morning it was 175 ppm (before i added the acid)
Not sure if i should add the leslie bag they told me it had a lot of chlorine in them so that is why i got a box of it!
Bleach or bag?

still waiting on the test kit.
 
Without knowing your True FC, I wont suggest you use the bags. It really will be better to wait until you get your kit to see what you have in the pool. CH is not so important in your vinyl pool, but it's best to wait, as hard as that is. Once you have good test numbers, we can advise you properly. When did you order the kit?
 
Ok, about half of the 5000 gal of water is gone! Yep, drained some off.. Found the pool brush! Finally! Fixed it so it wouldn't fall off (i'm such a rookie)
sweep, sweep, sweep..can see no more brown blobs in the bottom...
as of 2pm still no test kit.

Ok, so now what?
So i first am thinking..Fill the pool back up...lol
But seriously thinking about taking more out.
My logical mind says get rid of more water and you will get rid of your problem.
But since both my minds can't make up one mind i will ask ya'll..
:)
 
I did what you are doing now in about the same size pool. To this day I wonder why I didn't just drain and refill. :scratch:

You may still need to do a little SLAM if you drain/re-fill completely, but it will be relatively short and easy. Hence, the "Little SLAM". Yes, it would help, without question.
 
ok just seriously pulled the plug on this thang..
I am out of time:) Got a Nascar race in 4 days and i just want to get this **** done and over with LOL
No test kit in the mail today... ;(
Going to get her seriously LOW and then fill her back up.
Going to get a lot of bleach...again!
Going to do this if it kills me..
Going to need you folks to tell me where to go next!

Stacey
 
So i am just now starting to add water...Here is what she looks like now

drain.jpg
Im really fighting the urge to add a couple of bottles of bleach while there is not so much water but i will do as i was told:)
Still finding a lot of little brown triangle thingies in there..I am sweeping and trying to get it all out.
About to go check mail for test kit..
 

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