Sanity check here before I replace a valve actuator

[cheezedawg]

I have 2 Compool/Pentair CSA-24 valve actuators. One of them isn't working- doesn't respond either from the manual switch or from commands from the controller.

I removed the cover of both of the actuators. When I probe AC voltage coming into the unit, I get 29 VAC on both the good and bad units (I believe this was across the black and orange wires coming in from the controller). So the bad unit is still getting power. But when I manually toggle the switch:

• On the good unit, I now see 29 VAC on some of the output wires from the PCB that go to the motor while the motor is turning
• On the bad unit, I don't see any voltage on those same output wires

I do see a couple of places that sell replacement parts (including the switch set, gear set, etc), but given that I dont know exactly what is wrong it seems like it might just be time to replace the whole thing.

BTW- how easy is it to replace the valve actuator? Do I need to replace any of the PVC around the valve? I'd rather not start hacking up the pipes and have to buy a bunch of new fittings and have to get out the PVC cement

 

[poolpro88]

I have 2 Compool/Pentair CSA-24 valve actuators. One of them isn't working- doesn't respond either from the manual switch or from commands from the controller.

I removed the cover of both of the actuators. When I probe AC voltage coming into the unit, I get 29 VAC on both the good and bad units (I believe this was across the black and orange wires coming in from the controller). So the bad unit is still getting power. But when I manually toggle the switch:

• On the good unit, I now see 29 VAC on some of the output wires from the PCB that go to the motor while the motor is turning
• On the bad unit, I don't see any voltage on those same output wires

I do see a couple of places that sell replacement parts (including the switch set, gear set, etc), but given that I dont know exactly what is wrong it seems like it might just be time to replace the whole thing.

BTW- how easy is it to replace the valve actuator? Do I need to replace any of the PVC around the valve? I'd rather not start hacking up the pipes and have to buy a bunch of new fittings and have to get out the PVC cement

The actuator has a common as well as 2 24VAC circuits. When you toggle the switch on the bottom, you're switching the circuit in which voltage is being sent on. The 24VAC wires each send power to a tiny motor that rotates 2 independent cams. These cams rotate until their tabs make contact with a microswitch that opens that 24VAC circuit which shuts down the motor rotating the cam.

Your issue is that you're not getting power in on one of the 24VAC legs. You need to trace power to find the issue, which may be something as simple a bad wire. Alternatively, you can replace the microswitch which may be stuck in a position that is opening the circuit that brings in 24VAC to the motor which rotates the cam.

If you decide to replace the actuator, you don't have to re-plumb the valve.

 

[Charlie_R]

Do any of those places you mention sell the PCB by itself?

Can you remove the PCB, and look it over very carefully, to see if there are any components that might be a little flaky? Any areas that look like they go a bit warm or discolored would be an indication where the problem might be. If there are any capacitor cans on the board, check if any look a little swelled, especially the top. If they are tilted, or look like there might be a bit of dried goo under them, they would be bad, and needing replacement.

 

[cheezedawg]

Thanks- I'll spend some time trying to trace it back more. Are the schematics available anywhere?

There is no visible damage to any of the components.