Pool has been unused at least 2 years....

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armsdealer

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Mar 24, 2015
98
Baton Rouge, Louisiana
We are purchasing a house that has been empty for at least 2 years with a gunite pool. Pictures from two years ago show the pool green... We can't see the condition of the pool surface, 1 it has a foreclosure special pool cover on it, where we were able to lift up and look in the water is green.

We have accounted getting the pool resurfaced in our bid price on the house and are prepared to do that, but if I can get a season out of the pool all the better.

We got a quote of $1000 to drain, clean, and refill the pool and a quote of 9500 to re plaster the pool and 10,500 to do new tile and plaster. It is kidney shaped, the pool is about 42 feet long, 24 ft wide at the shallow end and 18ft wide at the dive well.

I have read the methods, my question is should I even try to bring this pool back chemically or should I just go ahead and pump it out and start with fresh water.
 
:wave: Welcome to TFP!!!

There are risks to fully draining a pool ... especially in area where the ground water table might be high like yours.

If you were going to immediately resurface, I would just drain it and do that. If you want to wait and see how bad the surface is and try to get a few years out of it, I would not drain and would just scoop anything in the pool out and go through the ShockLevelAndMAINTAIN Process using one of the Recommended Test Kits. You are going to want the TF-100 with XL option to do this.
 
Welcome! :wave:

If it's been covered so that you didn't get mountains of leaves and branches in there, the green should be pretty easy to get rid of. Whether or not you drain it, you'll still need a test kit. I'd get one ASAP (TF100 with XL option if you intend to clear it) and see just what the water test tells you. If the CYA is high, you'll need to drain some water anyway. If it's low, you're ready to roll. You'll have the test kit in your paws.
 
It can be done----------green to clean!

BUT you will need a good test kit. TF-100 XL like they said above.

Oh and us. You will need us! We LOVE to help and watch a pool come clean.

I would NOT drain it unless you are ready to to re-plaster it due to high water table.

Let us know when you are ready to start and we can walk you through how to do it.

Kim
 
I am familiar with testing water, I maintained reef tanks for years before I had kids.

Now with a 7 year old and a 5 month old looks like I will be back to testing water. Luckily I have a nice place to drain some water if need be, and honestly pool filtration isn't much different than aquarium filtration, just a bigger scale. I am just scared what I will find under the water, hopefully the surface is good to use this summer, if not resurfacing is a whole lot cheaper than putting in a new pool from scratch.

Thanks
 
Welcome to the forum!

I honestly think you should give it a go this season, and see how it looks once cleared out. What we teach here is knowledge and simplicity. It isn't all self evident but once you have a few tools in your chest it's really pretty easy. If you've kept healthy reefs, the chemistry should be easy enough for you to digest pretty quickly.

Ask questions in the forum if you have them. Make part of your pool investment a Test kit and don't fool around with anything other than a TF100 XL. You are going to need the reagents, and if you add the speedstir you wont regret it.

Filtering is easier because it's only for cleaning and nothing special like protein skimming or biological activity. Most of the stuff in pools is opposite. The goal is killing everything possible instead of keeping it all alive and healthy. :p

If you decide on the re-do, the price sounds reasonable depending on what they are planning on doing. I wouldn't spend the grand on a clean and refill. We've had plenty of pools taken from green/black to pristine clear. Maybe if its really tough, you'll spend half that. No one can say what you'll come out with, but it wouldn't be a surprise if you got a few more years out the finish you have now. It will be some work to get it right, but it can be done.

Enjoy the forum, and kee us updated.
 
You may want to evaluate the condition of the deck as well. We were guessing $10k for the resurfacing based on reading online, couldn't find any pool company open in February to evaluate the pool. After buying the house realized that the pebble finish on the concrete was there because it was all cracked. In the end we replaced the concrete with stamped concrete $15k, resurface was $15k because pretty much had to be completely replastered and replace plumbing lines, and decided to add led lighting while the concrete was out $3k. So it was more than 3x what we were expecting...

However it looks awesome and can't wait for summer! Good luck!
 
I have resurrected a foreclosure pool. Its a lot of work, especially dredging up all the debris...but in our case we had a high water table and a vinyl liner so a trash pump was out. Using the SLAM method (plus, because the cya had converted to ammonia after two years) I was able to get it clear in 12 days at this time of year with cold water temps. We removed about 20 wheelbarrows full of crud (leaves, etc.) in order to do so.

I learned a lot in the process, and have not had to slam since. However, being busy generating revenue, I would say that if your water table is not high, the $1000 to drain, clean and refill would afford you time and space to do other things around te new-to-you house. Its a trade off -- time in versus the meaning of the money to you. Either approach is fine.

If you decide to clear it yourself and run into stalls, I'll be happy to serve up any tips that might help you.

But first, let me ask: are you on well water or municipal water? If you are on well water and its safe to drain, drain and clean it, because trucking water will be worth it versus the hassle of dealing with metals in the water :)
 
City water

Estimate was from a pool company, we snuck them in on a "Viewing"

Concrete around the pool is fine.

I hope there is not too much crud in the pool, there is a canal behind the house, so I know where the crud is going, this is if they accept our current bid. Being covered, I hope it isn't too bad.

I am tempted to rent a trash pump and at least partially pump the pool out sucking from the bottom...
 
^i just noticed you are in Louisiana...if you are backing onto a canal you may have a high water table. Worth asking around about.

In which case a trash pump with "the sheet method" and simultaneous filling might make the most sense to keep the water pressure relatively stable.

The "sheet method" is where you basically duct tape together a bunch of visqueen, lay it on top of the water, run the trash pump below while filling with clean water on top.

(I hadn't heard of the sheet method until AFTER I did mine...somewhere on this site though is the tale of a guy who did it about two years back and it worked like a charm.)
 

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Well, we won the bid so I now own a pool.

I was told it has some good equipment, but no power to test it yet.

It has a Crystal Clear II D.E. Filter by Leslie and the main pump is a Pentair 1.5 hp pump. The timer is a T104R. It looks like there is a line for a secondary pump of some sort that is not hooked up. Not sure if I need it or not... It is much smaller than the main pump plumbing. Everything is tied in with Unions. I am hoping the pool got re plastered when the pool equipment was upgraded... crossing fingers. I can't touch anything for at least 15 days... HUD will cancel the contract, but as we get closer to closing I will build up my supplies. Just have to figure out what vehicle to carry bleach in. I like my cars... GTI,330i and motorcycles... I really need a truck.

I had been reading up on sand filters, so looks like I will have to read up on DE filters now.
 
After a pool as floated, is it then damaged? After you fill the pool, will it go back down?

What about when you paint a pool. Several days needed for prep work, then time needed to paint, then several days for paint to dry before refilling. What about this?
 
You don't need a truck. I haul all my pool chemicals in the trunk of my 540i//M-tech. I have a plastic crate that holds six bleach or acid jugs and won't let them turn over. I've never had anything spill.
 
Pamela01 said:
After a pool as floated, is it then damaged? After you fill the pool, will it go back down?

What about when you paint a pool. Several days needed for prep work, then time needed to paint, then several days for paint to dry before refilling. What about this?
Click to expand...

If you float a pool, it's ruined. All the plumbing connections will be broken and the concrete shell will probably crack. If a pool in a high water table area must be emptied you can (1) install a well point at a level below the pool to pump ground water below the level of the pool, or (2) cut holes in the pool shell to relieve water pressure and patch them when done or (3) you can install a relief valve to prevent floating.
 
I have ruled out draining the pool. I believe from research on this forum that I can bring back the pool with a Slam and see what I am working with. I would like to keep this about a slam and bringing an unused pool back to life. Hopefully the plaster is in good shape, the steps look promising, there are very minimum missing tiles and the pool is holding water, however green it may be.

Should I replace my DE before or after the slam?

I am pretty set on getting the Z5 or M5 robot cleaner, but I don't think I am brave enough to put it in the water until I can see bottom. Probably go with the Z5 since my local dealer doesn't stock the M5... I want it but they want to sell me a Dolphin 4.

I need suggestions on a pool rake and pool brush. I think I can figure the net out, and it looks like I can use the same pole for all 3. The pool store had various styles and none very similar...

Do I need anything other than a main pump and DE filter? I believe my disconnected line may have been for some sort of pump to power those crazy water powered cleaners that never seemed to clean anything...

Thanks for any help, I will post some pictures soon.
 
Congrats on your new home!
I know its hard waiting because I was in your shoes three years ago ;)

(And while I don't know that you'll need a new truck, I do agree that you'll want to stock and cart a LOT of bleach and always stay ahead...I used 60 gallons and it was still cold here. Your mileage may vary ;)

While you're waiting, order the XL size of test kit from tft so you have lots of reagent during the swamp conversion project...you don't want to run out. Here's a link: http://tftestkits.net/TF-100-Test-Kit-p4.html -- the owner of the company is one of the TFP founders/moderators. I hadn't realized that and bought the much smaller Taylor 2096 kit on amazon from a different vendor when I was a newbie -- (who took way longer to ship than tftkits, btw) but the XL kit is a way better deal, so I'm just letting you know.

For a leaf rake, I got two as I was interested in having lots of help...just bought the strongest looking one they had.

I also picked up a leaf gulper, which works using a garden hose to create a slight Venturi effect -- it will also stir up the silt but it was worth it to give my back a break so worth the twenty-odd bucks. http://www.amazon.com/Universal-Lea...p/B002WKO8OK/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top?ie=UTF8

Hopefully you won't need it as much as I did.
You will also want the use of a strong wheelbarrow if you don't already have one.

If you decide you'd like to try the trash pump/sheet method, let me know. I can google around to try to find the old thread from the guy who did it. If so, you'll want a box of the heavier visqueen you can get at HD or Lowes. And it might sound silly, but if you've had ammonia conversion, you'll want to wear a face mask for your first few cleaning sessions until the chlorine "breaks" it and a FC reading holds.

Unlike conventional wisdom, I shocked simultaneously to removing the debris because I really did not want to be handling anaerobic sludge without at least some sanitation and I wanted to knock down the stench. It worked is all I can say to defend my approach. Normally, the uninitiated might say to conserve the chlorine until you've removed as much debris as possible. While its true that you can't expect chlorine to "work right" if its trying to breakdown organic matter, I think there are cases where the minor expense on extra chlorine is offset by both human health considerations and efficacy, especially if you're racing against warmer weather, when things start to grow faster.

At any rate, have a good read through pool school while you wait and I'll check back in later if you have questions.

I didn't own my M4 when I started (I love that thing) but I also wouldn't have likely tried to use it til I'd cleared enough to see the bottom. We found hilarious things down there..,a cell phone, a bottle of floc, a leaf rake ;)

Cheers -- one the cleanup is nailed, you're going to love your summer!
 
Thanks. Luckily the pool is covered really well. with exception of the steps on the shallow end. I was considering starting my battle with the cover on so I could fight with darkness and Chlorine. I would not be able to rake the bottom with the cover HUD made on, but starving algae of light and hitting it with bleach and the DE filter sounds like a good plan to me. No telling what is under there, Pool cover is said to have gone on in September 2013...
 

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