Spoke too soon. Left the pump on all night, and went out to check it this morning. It was leaking, where the stub connected to the mta. After assembling it all together yesterday, I only wanted approximately 1 1/2 hours before starting the pump. What could cause this to start leaking? Did I not wait long enough before starting it up, and the glue did not have time to set up? What should I do now, start over?
booster pipe leak
- Thread starter Pamela01
- Start date
Bummer. Could be due to not enough primer and solvent or not enough time to setup. Did you twist the connection as you put the fittings together? Did you put primer and solvent in the fitting and on the pipe?
Luckily you used a long stub, so you should be able to cut the pipe just above the MTA. Then get another MTA screwed into the pump (are you using pipe dope on this or teflon tape?, I prefer the former) and then put the remaining pipe stub into the new screwed in fitting.
Luckily you used a long stub, so you should be able to cut the pipe just above the MTA. Then get another MTA screwed into the pump (are you using pipe dope on this or teflon tape?, I prefer the former) and then put the remaining pipe stub into the new screwed in fitting.
I don't think having not enough primer or solvent was the cause. I believe I used both liberally. Don't remember weather I twisted connection or not. I used a rubber mallet and hammered the stub into the mta as far as I could. I did put solvent and primer on the fitting and pipe?
I am a novice at pluming. I thought the Teflon tape was for connections that had to be screwed, and primer/solvent was for ends that were smooth. Is Teflon tape also used for smooth ends?
Even though the stub/mta connection is leaking, can I still put primer and solvent on it, and perhaps stop the leak that way?
I am a novice at pluming. I thought the Teflon tape was for connections that had to be screwed, and primer/solvent was for ends that were smooth. Is Teflon tape also used for smooth ends?
Even though the stub/mta connection is leaking, can I still put primer and solvent on it, and perhaps stop the leak that way?
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I meant the teflon or dope on the threaded fittings.
Since this is on the pressure side, you are not likely to get a good seal by just slopping on more solvent at the joint.
A hammer is not usually needed. You just want to push the pipe into the fitting while turning about 1/4 turn and then hold it for a few seconds. You may not be able to get much of a turn with the flex already attached ... just twist and wiggle it as much as you can.
Since this is on the pressure side, you are not likely to get a good seal by just slopping on more solvent at the joint.
A hammer is not usually needed. You just want to push the pipe into the fitting while turning about 1/4 turn and then hold it for a few seconds. You may not be able to get much of a turn with the flex already attached ... just twist and wiggle it as much as you can.
Sorry, made a mistake. On second look, the leak is where the flex pipe is connected to the 45. Any advice what I should do now?
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Sorry, made a mistake. On second look, the leak is where the flex pipe is connected to the 45. Any advice what I should do now?
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Sorry, made a mistake. On second look, the leak is where the flex pipe is connected to the 45. Any advice what I should do now?
Hmmm. Likely need to cut the 45 out and put a new one in ... hopefully the flex is long enough. Or put a new 45 on and a piece of pipe out the other end a bit and use a coupler to connect the flex to the pipe.
I am not sure what trick to use to ensure a good seal with the flex hose. A good bit of primer and solvent, twist on the fitting and hold it in for a minute or so to make sure it sets before you start putting any stress on it. I would make that connection first.
I am not sure what trick to use to ensure a good seal with the flex hose. A good bit of primer and solvent, twist on the fitting and hold it in for a minute or so to make sure it sets before you start putting any stress on it. I would make that connection first.
I believe there is enough flex pipe to install a new 45. If I have enough flex pipe, would this plan be better than the one with the coupler, or would the coupler be best?
Only use teflon on the threaded connections and do NOT use solvent on them.
If there is enough flex, that is fine. The added pipe and coupler are only needed if the flex was too short and it you think the joint might be stressed.
If there is enough flex, that is fine. The added pipe and coupler are only needed if the flex was too short and it you think the joint might be stressed.
Also note that flex can be difficult to get a good glue joint. There is special glue, but I have never found that it was necessary. However, it might help. It's important to clean the flex pvc and remove all burrs. If the flex is old and dry rotted or gummy, you might need to replace the entire piece. Good procedure helps including getting a full insertion and holding it in for at least 60 seconds. Allow the flex joint to set up for 30 minutes before putting any stress on it to make the final connection to the vertical stub. I would also wait at least 12 hours before pressuring, just to be sure.
James W, thank you. I went and got the new 45 tonight, so I will be working on it tomorrow. I will follow your instructions.
The leak seems to be fixed the second time around. I took the plan of jblizzle, but followed the procedure recommended by James W.
James W, you stated in an earlier post there was special cement, so I took a look at the cement that I had used the first time. The cement was ABS to PVC, which I felt was wrong. I then bought some heavy duty cement. It came in a larger can than the other cements, with a big round ball as an applicator. Since the applicator was so large, you could not help but get a lot of product on it, but when I put it together the cement came out the top and seemed to form a seal around the flex and 45. I also took time to make certain that the ends of the flex were smooth and clean, and held it there as you recommended. I did it yesterday, but did not turn it on until this morning after it had dried overnight. I ran it all day and did not see a leak.
Developed a new problem today. It now seems my salt cell needs attention. I hope a cleaning is all that it will be needing. Going to try and clean it tomorrow.
James W, you stated in an earlier post there was special cement, so I took a look at the cement that I had used the first time. The cement was ABS to PVC, which I felt was wrong. I then bought some heavy duty cement. It came in a larger can than the other cements, with a big round ball as an applicator. Since the applicator was so large, you could not help but get a lot of product on it, but when I put it together the cement came out the top and seemed to form a seal around the flex and 45. I also took time to make certain that the ends of the flex were smooth and clean, and held it there as you recommended. I did it yesterday, but did not turn it on until this morning after it had dried overnight. I ran it all day and did not see a leak.
Developed a new problem today. It now seems my salt cell needs attention. I hope a cleaning is all that it will be needing. Going to try and clean it tomorrow.
Congrats! You are now nearly a PVC expert 
What is the problem with the SWG cell? What kind is it?
Please put your pool info in your signature.
What is the problem with the SWG cell? What kind is it?
Please put your pool info in your signature.
Second day without a leak on the booster hose. I believe it is fixed.
The SWG is a Mineral Springs, T-cell 15. Today I took the cell off, inspected it, etc, Did not appear to have anything wrong with it so I put it back on. The check minerals light is on solid and well as inspect cell. Tried numerous times and ways to reset it but can't get the inspect cell light to stay off. Even turned off the power to the unit to clear the board, and when I started it back up the inspect light came back on. Any advice would be appreciated.
The SWG is a Mineral Springs, T-cell 15. Today I took the cell off, inspected it, etc, Did not appear to have anything wrong with it so I put it back on. The check minerals light is on solid and well as inspect cell. Tried numerous times and ways to reset it but can't get the inspect cell light to stay off. Even turned off the power to the unit to clear the board, and when I started it back up the inspect light came back on. Any advice would be appreciated.
The inspect cell will automatically come on every 3 months or so to remind you to look at the cell. You should be able to reset it by holding the diagnostic button down for 5 seconds I think.
The check minerals might mean that your salt level is incorrect. Can you report all the numbers off the SWG screen?
The check minerals might mean that your salt level is incorrect. Can you report all the numbers off the SWG screen?
held the diagnostic button down all day today and never seems to reset.
the numbers are
1500
77
34.1
0.00
7p
-0
AL-1
r 1.33
the numbers are
1500
77
34.1
0.00
7p
-0
AL-1
r 1.33
That claims the salt is 1500 ... Way too low. You should test the salt level independently or have a pool store do it to see if the salt is too low or if the cell is going bad.
which is better? salt strips of take it to get it tested?
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If 1500 is too low, what should the salt level be? I added three 40 lb bags of salt yesterday. I have not added salt since last summer?
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If 1500 is too low, what should the salt level be? I added three 40 lb bags of salt yesterday. I have not added salt since last summer?