PH testing

Sep 2, 2008
6
I have(had,I hope) pink slime I've tried finding info on this without much luck. I have a 15500 gal fiberglass pool with SWG,approx 90 sun during day. I was fine until many spring fires in northern Calif. I was told by one pool supply to shock to 30ppm, last night I did actually to 45ppm.my PH went from 7.6 to 8.0 which I fully expected. My second part question is why does the container of dry acid(pooltime)says to use 18 oz. to lower it to7.2-7.8 and my test kit taylor k-2006 says to use 7 lbs. Which is correct?
My readings this morning were FAC 47.0-CC .2- PH 8.0- CYA 70 TA 140 Corrected to 115
 
High levels of FC can cause PH to read false-high, when your FC is above 10, I wouldn't make any adjustments to the PH. Wait until it drops back to normal range and see if the PH has fallen back to normal range too..... as for the discrepancy in dosages? Can't tell you why there. I would trust the Pool Calculator (see the link) above all else....
 
seachap said:
I have(had,I hope) pink slime I've tried finding info on this without much luck. I have a 15500 gal fiberglass pool with SWG,approx 90 sun during day. I was fine until many spring fires in northern Calif. I was told by one pool supply to shock to 30ppm, last night I did actually to 45ppm.my PH went from 7.6 to 8.0 which I fully expected. My second part question is why does the container of dry acid(pooltime)says to use 18 oz. to lower it to7.2-7.8 and my test kit taylor k-2006 says to use 7 lbs. Which is correct?
My readings this morning were FAC 47.0-CC .2- PH 8.0- CYA 70 TA 140 Corrected to 115
Thanks for help, any comments on pink slime
 
Well, I had a pinkish purplish shade of something, kind of like a pinky lilac color, upon opening my pool I think 3 and 4 summers ago. I can only assume it was some sort of algae, as it went away as I began to circulate the water and shock my pool. Does your slime brush away? Or is it more like a stain on the fiberglass?
 
PH changes take different amounts of chemical depending on a number of other factors, such as TA and borates. If you were using the acid demand test in the Taylor K-2006, it automatically takes all of those factors into account. The label on your dry acid can't take all the factors into account, so it has to assume that they are at typical levels.

As was mentioned before, the PH test is not reliable when the FC level is high. But even if you had a reliable PH reading, you shouldn't make large PH changes all at once. It is best to add perhaps half of the calculated value, give it some time to mix, and see where you ended up before adding the rest.
 
frustratedpoolmom said:
Well, I had a pinkish purplish shade of something, kind of like a pinky lilac color, upon opening my pool I think 3 and 4 summers ago. I can only assume it was some sort of algae, as it went away as I began to circulate the water and shock my pool. Does your slime brush away? Or is it more like a stain on the fiberglass?
Yes it brushes away leaves no stain, but does float around in water like little pieces of snot(sorry),since nobody I talked to could help I went on line and found yes it's slime and a bacteria not an algae and is very hard to get rid of. I found one product called pink treat but was told it couldn't be sold in Calif. So the next best thing to do was shock to over 30ppm. which is what I did.
 
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