Pool 6 months old - readings

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surferbum

surferbum

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May 18, 2013
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North Scottsdale
I have a 6 month old shotcrete pool and have been doing all my own maintenance after the PB initial startup. Water has stayed clear and no problems to report.

The water here in Scottsdale is pretty hard (250-300ppm).

Latest test results:
  • FC - 5 is target
  • TA - 100-110
  • CH - 400
  • CYA - 35
  • pH - 7.8
The pH stays solidly at 7.8. About once a month I lower the pH to 7.2 and aerate with water features to gradually reduce the TA. It lowers TA 10-15 ppm and the pH rises (and stops) always around 7.8.

Two questions:
  1. To lowering the CH much (by replacing water) is tough here in Scottsdale. Should I worry about it?
  2. Any issues if my pool stays at these readings?


Thanks.
 
The only way to lower CH there is with fresh rain water or looking into the osmosis which can be expensive. Your CH isn't bad but you should try and keep your pH down around 7.2 so that it doesn't start clouding or causing problems with your CH if you have to refill with your tap and the CH goes up. Also, you need to raise your CYA to the very least 50 in that hot Arizona Sun.
 
surferbum said:
I have a 6 month old shotcrete pool and have been doing all my own maintenance after the PB initial startup. Water has stayed clear and no problems to report.

The water here in Scottsdale is pretty hard (250-300ppm).

Latest test results:
  • FC - 5 is target
  • TA - 100-110
  • CH - 400
  • CYA - 35
  • pH - 7.8
The pH stays solidly at 7.8. About once a month I lower the pH to 7.2 and aerate with water features to gradually reduce the TA. It lowers TA 10-15 ppm and the pH rises (and stops) always around 7.8.

Two questions:
  1. To lowering the CH much (by replacing water) is tough here in Scottsdale. Should I worry about it?
  2. Any issues if my pool stays at these readings?
Thanks.
Click to expand...

Currently, not at all with the CH. It's toward to higher side, but 400 CH is easily manageable. Depending on how much CH your fill water has determines how fast that increases in you pool.

Keep an eye on it, along with managing your pH carefully and not letting it get high (above 7.6) if you can help it. I prefer a little safety factor and would want this to be my high limit. Certainly don't let it remain above 7.8.

TA is a little high, but I imagine your fill water has a lot, so it will keep you on a course of faster rising pH when you have this situation. Just watch the pH and keep it in line.
 
Any issues if my pool stays at these readings?
Click to expand...
Nothing earth-shaking. Casey's advice to raise CYA to 60 is the most important change I would nake. Next, keep a pretty close eye on CH and pH but you seem to be doing that just right already.

What's the CH of your fill water?
 
I hired a neighbor's pool service for my pool while I was out of town for 3 weeks. When I tested the pool when I returned there were some readings which are outside the range recommended here (in parenthesis). Should I take any action to change these readings?

pH (7.5-7.8) 7.5
TA (70-90+) 50
CYA (30-50) 70
CH (250-350) 400 [our tap water is 350]
 
surferbum said:
I hired a neighbor's pool service for my pool while I was out of town for 3 weeks. When I tested the pool when I returned there were some readings which are outside the range recommended here (in parenthesis). Should I take any action to change these readings?

pH (7.5-7.8) 7.5
TA (70-90+) 50
CYA (30-50) 70
CH (250-350) 400 [our tap water is 350]
Click to expand...

Don't know if this was seen since website problems.
 

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That is normal and not a problem. A higher TA or a lower pH causes more carbon dioxide outgassing and that has the pH rise faster. Stop trying to lower the pH so much, certainly not below 7.5. If it's fairly stable at 7.8, then leave it there. If your TA or CH are high and you are worried about calcium carbonate scaling, you can lower your TA instead. If you venture close to or beyond the edges of the Recommended Levels, then you can calculate the CSI in PoolMath to see if it's too high.

The only risk of a high pH (with other levels balanced accordingly to not have the CSI too high) is metal staining. If you don't have metals in your water, then this isn't a problem.
 
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