Hayward swim pure plus showing 0 salt

Mar 21, 2015
2
Brandon FL
I have been fighting my pool turning green for months. It started with showing high salt, at the time I didn't know that high or low readings stopped the system from generating chlorine. So I drained some and added water. Then a few days later showed low salt so I added some. Then it went back to low! So I did some research and found how to calibrate. It did the count down really fast but I stopped it (lower than what the actual reading was). It seemed to work. Then a few days later it was reading low again. I tried re-calculating again but it wouldn't count down from a high number, it would start at a lower number. Now it is showing 0 salt with the same check salt and check cell lights on. I saw a post about changing the varister. Mine doesn't look burned so I don't want to start pulling the board and trying to find that the resister (AS32 2R025) on line that may not be the problem (not to mention it's been about 20 years since I soldered anything in my military days). Any help is greatly appreciated as I can't afford to call the local pool company and the cost of chemicals is killing me! :mad:
 
Hi and welcome to TFP,
not all SWGs are equal in how much salt is too low or too high.
Generally speaking the range is 3000 - 4500 or somewhere in between.

What brand do you have and how big is the cell?

Also, for future reference, it would help us help you if you would fill out your signature. Here is a link to the sig info and a link to where you can add it.

Hopefully, someone will come along shortly and be able to help.
http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/115-read-before-you-post
 
Welcome to TFP!

The first step is to do a visual inspection of the cell and check the cell cable connection to make sure it isn't loose. When looking at the cell, look in from the end and see if you see any white chalky stuff built-up on the cell plates. If you do see white chalky stuff the cell needs to be cleaned.
 
Can you run through the diagnostics and tell us what each of them are?

Just push the diagnostic button and record what each value is. Many times, the volts or amps values will be helpful in determing where the problem might be.

Thanks very much for updating your signature. It will be very helpul for others who come along.
 
I would get some salt test strips and determine the salinity of the water before doing any more draining or adding of salt. If the strips aren't reasonably close to the cell readout then it could be a dirty or failing cell. How old is the cell?
 
Try this:

1) Move switch to off.
2) turn knob to 50%
3) wait 5 minutes
4) move switch to auto
5) wait 2 minutes.
6) scroll through diagnostics and record the readings.

Do the above procedure twice and report both sets of readings.
 
Good check list James, I always ask the pool owner in this situation to have the water tested by a local pool store. Cold water will affect the salt readings sometimes. I look forward to what the diagnostic has to say. If needed PM your phone number to me and I will call.
 
I always ask the pool owner in this situation to have the water tested by a local pool store.
Why would you say a pool store test is better? Assuming the power has one of the test kits that we recommend, I would trust that over any pool store testing. Accurate testing is the cornerstone of the TFP method of pool care.

Now if the owner does not have a salt test kits, that could certainly be done by a pool store. But I would recommend the small investment in having the Taylor drop test to perform for yourself ... and to get a history for how the test numbers compare to the SWG readout.
 
What I am trying to say is test with something other than the unit. If the test kit they are using test for salt that is ok. I will stop using the pool store one. Most homeowners though, do not have a salt tester.
 

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