New Liner and Refilling Questions.

Aug 19, 2014
683
Shallotte, NC
Preamble:
OK, we have a pool that was most likely installed in 1987. The structure of the pool is something I've never heard of, but is apparently not all that rare. It is believed to be a Buster Crabbe pool with a cement bottom and wooden walls... originally it held a liner. After some years, it had been fiber-glassed, the main drain removed, and the liner deleted. Some years more and the gelcoat of the fiberglass has failed and the immediately previous owners of the pool have "painted" it with a hard coating, which, too, has failed.

The first two months of ownership showed that we had a mere leak of only about 650 gallons per day. We found a repair to one of the two returns with about 5 couplings in the space of 4 feet... crooked and the last coupling had no glue. That mess was repaired properly and the leaks subsided to only 550 gallons per day during the next two months.... something had to be done and it finally got warm enough to attack the problem(s).

Pool guys came in, yesterday, and drained the pool. Additional problems were found where the skimmer pool connection was leaking and the pipe joint at the skimmer was never glued ( I'm beginning to note a pattern, here!). The returns were leaking, too. Solution:

New 28 mil liner, new skimmer, new returns, new plumbing, and a thorough pressure test. It will be a "Just Getting Started," for us; the pool will surely not respond to chemistry, as before.


Questions:
The simple question is this: after refilling (with city water) and starting the pump, in which order do I reintroduce the chemicals? Any gotchas to be considered with a new liner? Any other tips? Pitfalls?
 
Take your TF-100 test kit and test your fill water. That will give you a starting place for what you're going to need to work on.
One thing you're sure to need is some CYA. Beyond that you'll have to run the test to be sure.
 
The ideal order varies depending on what your initial readings are. If you post test results for your fill water we can give you specific advice.

Generally speaking, adjust PH and/or TA only if they are way way out of range, then chlorine, then CYA, then start fine tuning everything else more slowly.

On a fresh fill, you usually want to add 2 ppm of chlorine each evening after the sun is off the pool until it has been 24 hours since you started adding CYA. At that point you switch to targeting the recommended FC level for your CYA target.
 
OK, Jason.... I've got the easy stuff and something that blew my mind:

Easy

Fill Water:
FC .2
CC 0
pH 8.0 (perhaps higher)
TA 30
CH 20

Hard

Acid Demand Test
I don't ever do this test, since I rely solely on the calculator. However, I tried it, this time. With a pH of 8.0 (ish) ONE drop of R-0005 turns the sample bright yellow! I tried it three times and was 100% repeatable. WTH?
 
TA is really low, so it is very easy to change the PH.

You are going to want to raise the TA to between 60 and 80 as soon as the pool is full and then lower the PH to around 7.7 to 7.8.

As mentioned previously, add 2 ppm of chlorine each evening after the sun is off the pool until it has been 24 hours since you started adding CYA. At that point you switch to targeting the recommended FC level for your CYA target.

You can start raising the CYA level right after TA and PH are taken care of.
 
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