I been trying to see if my ozonator can assist in removing CC and what level of FC is best to also help remove CC easily without needing to shock.
For the time being I am looking at the numbers and it looks good so far but bather load not that high yet, I had 2 big rains though. I can not yet profile my pool typical CC production, because I only have TF test kit for a while.
I am wondering if anyone of you have some sort of log book or data to compare with my numbers.
CYA 25PPM PH 7.6 Water Temp 28*C
Pool turnover 12 hours. Pump run time daily minimum 12 hours. 50GPM water flow clean filters.
Pump cycle, 8AM turn on. 8PM turn off.
Ozone level at injector tip = 0.176 PPM at 8.3 seconds contact time estimated within pipes.
Add water to pool daily minimum 400 liters or 106 gallons if there is no rain. There is a minor "leak" somewhere.
Everytime it rains, the worry is not the rain water. The amount of dirt the sun shade is holding is worth the mention and also the building wall that also contribute to the dirt. I can tell how much rain water got into the pool by looking at the water level in the balancing tank with pump running.
27th Aug 08:00AM TC = 2 OTO test
27th Aug 11:30AM FC = 1 CC = 0 FAS/DPD with 0.2 resolution
27th Aug 13:45PM Add 1 liter bleach 12%. Pool calculator stated 1 liter = 0.92 PPM increase
28th Aug 06:50AM FC = 1.5 CC = 0 FAS/DPD with 0.5 resolution
28th Aug 15:00PM Heavy rain for 3 hours. Rain water into pool no more than 200 gallons. Dirt..well always a lot.
28th Aug 18:30PM FC = 1 CC = 0.5 FAS/DPD with 0.5 resolution
28th Aug 18:35PM Add 2 liter bleach, extend pump run time by extra 4 hours or 16 hours total.
29th Aug 08:00AM FC = 3 CC = 0 , FAS/DPD with 0.5 resolution
30th Aug 07:15AM FC = 2.5 CC =0 , FAS/DPD with 0.5 resolution
30th Aug 20:25PM FC = 2.5 CC =0 , FAS/DPD with 0.5 resolution. I believe its cloudy that day
31st Aug 07:00AM FC = 2.5 CC =0 , FAS/DPD with 0.5 resolution
31st Aug 15:00PM Heavy rain for 3 hours and 2 divers using pool for 3 hours. Rain water into pool, max 200 gallons.
31st Aug 20:00PM FC = 1.5 CC =0.5 FAS/DPD with 0.5 resolution
31st Aug 20:20PM Add 2 liter bleach, extend pump run time by extra 7 hours or 19 hours total
1st Sep 07:15AM FC = 3 CC =0 , FAS/DPD with 0.5 resolution
Pump run only at 09:00AM upwards.
I finish writing this report at 10:05AM, 1st Sept 2008
No "chlorine" smell reported by divers and my nose too...
I had once seen my pool peak clarity collapse progressively merely from 4 divers for 3 hours in the water. At the end of the day it was mild cloudy. The TC was 2.5 minimum but I do not know the CC back then. The other cloudy session was because of sudden rain after a long dry spell...so I suppose lots of organic flowed into the pool. I think I had three cloudy session since June 2007 and 2 are from divers and once from rain.
Normal swimmer without dive gear never impacted my pool clarity the way diver do. I think I know why. Dive gear do not get washed the way we washed our swimming wear with soap and all the good things to clean clothes. Dive gears are only rinsed with fresh water and hang out to dry, that's it. It get used in the sea, lie around boat decks and so on. I bet contamination must be high. Dive gear surface area is huge compared to swimming wear at least 5-15 times more, depending if we compared a wetsuit to a G-string..
I do get the dive gears to be rinsed before pool use use and special scuba tanks for pool use only that never get rented out for sea use, but without proper soap wash, technically my pool water is the one sanitizing those dive gear...
I am also thinking to do this :
- Raise 1 PPM FC 1 hour before any divers use the pool or when it starts to rain
- Add another 1 PPM FC after diver used the pool or after a decent 3 hour rain
Which is better, above method or hit 2 PPM FC after use or rain like what I am doing now as soon as I am seeing low level 1.0 to 1.5 PPM FC ?
I rather spend some more $$ on another 2 gram ozonator if it really works the way I think it does, than having to shock my pool. If I need to shock, it will be at least 10-12 PPM FC to be safe. For some reason I do not want anyone to swim in my pool at higher than 5PPM FC, even though I have 25PPM CYA. After shocking a pool and to wait for it to go down to 5PPM FC, it will take me 5-6 days and with good sunlight. I can have trouble if diver training schedule is 2 times a week, let alone 4 times a week. My kids will also make so much noise. The ozone already paid itself in improved clarity, and for indoor pool it said to remove CC well. I am hoping at double dose or 0.35 PPM at the injector tip I can get rid of CC faster or capable of removing higher CC, say 1 PPM CC. I am already enjoying another benefit. No more double pump needed to be run since I have the ozonator. Pump extended run I only do like 4-7 hours extra compared to 12 hours or 18 hours if double pump involved after a big rain.
I have to say that at 3PPM FC and zero CC, there is no "chlorine" smell.
Without TF test kit this would be impossible... to do.
Knowing my pool chemistry better makes me demand even more. Aside from clarity issue, now I am obsessed with killing CC...my my. With greater knowledge comes greater responsibility... I am staying away from public pools for good.
PS.. I finished a bottle of R-0871 in like 2 weeks !!!