New pool test results, and questions.

[Troll]

First, hi and thanks to all. I have been following this and another site very closely since we decide to install a pool this year, both sites have been very informative.

Here are my latest test results FC 1.0, TC 1.0, PH 7.6, TA 90, CH 160, CYA 0.
I have a taylor test kit. (K-2005)

Is my CH a little low? If so, what products do you reccomend. I currently have a large (unopened) pail of pool store brand Calcium increaser. It just seems a little pricey to me. (50lbs. for $80).

Also my CYA still reads 0 even though I have put in about 4 lbs. slowly by filling a nylon and putting it in the skimmer basket. I do not want to accidently add too much. Any suggestions for getting a good reading would be very much appreciated. I can not get the black dot to disappear.

Lastly, my PH tends to rise quite rapidly, I am using about a half gallon of muratic acid every 2 days. Is this normal? I have read that swcg's tend to raise the PH, but was not sure if this was excessive.

Thanks, Paul.

 

[JasonLion]

Welcome to TFP!

CYA can take up to a week to fully disolve. When doing the CYA test try mixing for 30 seconds, let it sit for 2 to 3 minutes, mix for another 10 seconds and then do the black dot test. If your water is cold try bringing your sample inside and allowing it to warm up before starting the test. In 30,000 gallons, 4 lbs of CYA is a good place to start but it won't get you to a CYA of 30. CYA levels under 20 often read as zero. Try adding another 2 lbs.

If your pool was built in the last few months it will require a lot of acid. Extra acid is required while the plaster is curing. If the pool is new it will also tend to cause the CH level to rise by it's self.

You should raise your FC level to at least 3 and when you get your CYA up to 30 I would aim for 5. A FC of 1 is fine if your CYA is truly 0, but it is probably above that.

 

[duraleigh]

First, hi and thanks to all. I have been following this and another site very closely since we decide to install a pool this year, both sites have been very informative.

Here are my latest test results FC 1.0, TC 1.0, PH 7.6, TA 90, CH 160, CYA 0.
I have a taylor test kit. (K-2005)

Is my CH a little low? If so, what products do you reccomend. I currently have a large (unopened) pail of pool store brand Calcium increaser. It just seems a little pricey to me. (50lbs. for $80). Yeah, pretty pricey. You can do it almost for free if you'll chlorinate with calcium hypochlorite...it'll take a little longer but you're in no danger.

Also my CYA still reads 0 even though I have put in about 4 lbs. slowly by filling a nylon and putting it in the skimmer basket. I do not want to accidently add too much. Any suggestions for getting a good reading would be very much appreciated. I can not get the black dot to disappear. How long since you put it in? CYA can take a few days to register

Lastly, my PH tends to rise quite rapidly, I am using about a half gallon of muratic acid every 2 days. Is this normal? I have read that swcg's tend to raise the PH, but was not sure if this was excessive. Yep. It's the nature of the beast. You'll need muriatic acid to control it from here on out. The demand will lessen as your new pool cures but you will always need some

You need to get some chlorine in your pool ASAP, Again, Cal Hypo would be my choice as it will add calcium while doing so. Download bleachcalc if you not already done so...it'll tell you how much

Thanks, Paul.

 

[Troll]

Thanks for the replies.

I have been slowly adding the CYA for the past week, so I'll let it sit for a while and retest. I will also try to let my sample sit for a minute or two and then try reshaking.

duraleigh, Thanks for the idea of using calcium hypochlorite, however I am using a Pool-Pilot to chlorinate. So, does that mean I am stuck using the pool stores product?

 

[duraleigh]

Sorry...I overlooked the SWG in your sig. It might be easiest to just use the pool store stuff. However, if you are cheap like me, I would turn the SWG down to it's lowest setting or even off and use the Cal Hypo as my primary CL source 'til I got the Ch around 250. Then I'd switch back to the SWG. That may be penny-wise and pound-foolish for the hassle it puts you thru....you'll have to decide.

 

[JasonLion]

You can often find calcium chloride sold as a de-icer at hardware stores. You need to be careful that it is reasonably pure. For example, DowFlake used to be very pure calcium chloride but now contains noticable amounts of bromide. Getting rid of the bromide can take weeks of sunlight and extra chlorine.

Calcium increaser is reasonably priced at Lowes and Home Depot (if they have it in stock).