Day 2 with SWG on and choline at Zero

Starsky

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LifeTime Supporter
May 16, 2008
68
They put salt in the pool on Thursday afternoon. Its reading 2600 ppm now and I added 2 bags. However yesterday and today the chlorine read 0. Does the salt have to reach a certain saturation before the SWG works?
 
What kind of SWCG is it? If it's Goldline (Hayward) I can help with the diagnostics.

#1 Is the unit turned on? Perhaps this is a silly question, but if the unit is Goldline the factory default is set at 2600 - I always question the veracity when the unit says 2600. The aqua rite units have a black diagnostics button next to the display can if you push that button 5 times and tell me the results, we may get a good idea of what's going on (Aqua Logic has a diagnostic menu - which should be able to tell you volts, amps, % output and instant salinity)

What we want to do is get the unit to tell us what it's doing, are any of the 'idiot lights' lit? Is the cell plugged in? - The diagnostics should tell us this.

I wish you well in finding your chlorine :p Please let us know what's going on.
 
Do you have the proper CYA level? If your CYA is too low it is impossible to maintain a FC level even when the SWG is working correctly.

Also, you should manually bring the FC level up to an appropriate level and the SWG should be able to maintain it from there. It isn't always possible for the SWG to bring the FC level up from zero.
 
Unfortunatley Im at work now but I will look when I get back home tonight. It has the diagnostic menu so it must be the Aqua logic. I recall it saying Chlorination 80% along with air and pool temp.. And Jason, CYA is 50 so I think that is ok. Prior to the salt water generator being turned on I was adding bleach to keep the Chlorine up. I stopped when they started the generator and tested it when I got home and it was zero. Tested again today after giving it some time and it was still zero. I added bleach before coming to work. I added 2 bags of salt (they left me 3) and I will check the reading at midnight to see if it is up to 3000 or so.
 
True, I wasnt too specific earlier..I had issue with the CYA being 30 last week. I dumped CYA into the skimmer to bring it up to 50 along with having some pucks in the automatic in line dispener. I haven't checked it in a couple days but it is likely higher than the 50 it was a few days ago with the CYA dissolving. I will give it a couple more days then re test to see. If its still at 50, I'll add more.
 
Starsky said:
-26 v -7 amps, 80% chlorination

Any chance of getting the instant salinity#? Those #s look close but may be a hair off, which could indicate that the salt is still a little low (of course my manual is at work :grrrr: 3 of us attended the training, but I'm the only one who brought the manual into work, but I'm also the only one who might need to use it at home :hammer: )
 
With your numbers, the unit should be producing chlorine :scratch: All I can think of is, as was mentioned, a pre-existing chlorine demand that the SWCG isn't able to take care of. I'd suggest following Jason's advice and shocking the pool with bleach and see if the SWCG won't take care of things from there. Also, retest the CYA to insure that there is enough to protect/ support the chlorine you are generating :)
 

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I'll try all those things. I am just curious, because with the pucks in the in-line dispensor, it was maintaining 1 ppm chlorine 24/7 . I would bump it up to 3 with bleach. Now with the pucks out of the equation, the SWG at 80% Im getting clear water on the chlorine test. I have a call in to the service guys but they wont be able to come out till Tuesday earliest. Im thinking ...that Im getting no chlorine from the cell.
 
Something is inconsistent. It is completely possible for the SWG to be broken and not producing chlorine. But it really shouldn't also be reading 26 volts and 7 amps at the same time that it is broken.

I really think that it is likely that you have algae and need to shock and then the SWG will start working correctly.
 
Shocking won't hurt a thing so I will start the process tonight. I'm about to look up how much and how long in the pool school area but I vaguely remember this is where you sneak up on the pool, yell "boo!" and then tell it how you feel Steven Segal was ripped off by the Academy for never being nominated for ANY of his straight to video movies..
 
The one factor I didn't think about was run time for the pump. I am now getting readings of 5 ppm chlorine with 12 hr pump run time and 80%. Is it better to lower pump run time, or percentage chlorine?
 
I would think lowering the percentage would be better than run time as that would help spread the chlorine love through more of the day. However, there are many people here who are far more knowledgeable than me who may disagree with my opinion. If so, please ignore mine. :)
 
Dont know if I can help. Im a new SWG pool owner. They started my pool with a chlorine puck float for the first 3 weeks while the plaster cured. Then the PB had me pour 13 50lb bags of salt in the pool while the pumps were running and the Jandy Aquapure 1400 set at 00 for 24 hours until the salinity reached 3.2-3.5 which it did. Then I set the SWG at 65% and my pump runs about 8-9 hours for a 15K gallon pool and my chlorine levels are right where the chart says. You said they left you 3 bags of salt. It took me 13 to reach the correct salinity levels. I put in 4 bags at a time until the level was 3.4.
 
Thanks for the info. I have dumped the 3 bags in bringing me to 3300 ppm. I will just have to play with the percentage and run times. I was just glad to see the water in the vial turn yellow finally.
 
Starsky, glad you found your chlorine!! :goodjob:

I would adjust the output % before the pump run time (the cells are expensive and the less you run them, the longer they will last) - but the MOST IMPORTANT THING is maintaining sufficient chlorine in the pool!!!!

Please keep us informed as to your progress & success :)
 
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