No LED's on my Chlorine Generator

restoman

Well-known member
Dec 24, 2010
168
Murrieta, CA
Not sure this is the right place to post this so if not, mods, please feel free to move.

Anyway, I went out this morning to do my weekly check to make sure everything is working okay, and I noticed none of the LED's on my Aqua Rite 6D22 Chlorine Generator are lit up. No power, no "generating", etc... I DO have 3400 showing in the display for my salt content (see below), so it appears some of it's working correctly.

I turned everything off and flipped the breakers off at the main circuit breaker panel at the side of the house, waited a few minutes then flipped them back on. The "No flow" led started blinking, but again, no power LED. After a few seconds of having the pool pump on, the "No flow" LED went off, so I'm assuming I just have a problem with the green side LED's?

But if that's the case, I have no way to know if I'm generating or not.

Any suggestions?

Ed

 
Okay boys and girls. Got the new thermistor in the mail this morning and as I was removing the old one, it literally crumbled in my hands (see below). Installed the new one and although a little hard to see, the power and generating lights are now lit up like they should be. The greatest $3.00 I ever spent!

Ed



 
I had just replaced my T 15 cell last summer and then this happened, no LEDs on the display and judging by the pic I have the same model as you. I see the price has gone up, I paid $2.00 for my thermistor a year ago;-). You would think pool service companies would learn this. They could charge you for the circuit board @ $300 and a replacement charge or charge a service fee and $50 to repair. looks like the repair is cheaper and makes the service guy more profit.
 
I know it's an old thread but wanted to update details here since later models (2011+) chlorinators use a higher amperage (25A) current limiter (regulator) from the one shown earlier in this thread. Symptoms were exactly as described in this thread, so if you're handy with a soldering iron, and know some basic electronics, you'll save yourself $300 in a replacement board. Old one cracked open when I pulled it off the board. Well worth the $6 investment! ;) Mouser Part #:995-AS32-2R025

Mouser Current Limters.jpg20170820_200117.jpg





 
Worked like a charm! Even though there were no visible signs of a faulty part until it was cut off and split in half like above.

When desoldering I used some 20 gauge copper wire dipped in flux to help pull the solder out of the board. This was my first experience and fortunately it went smooth. Thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread. The internet is an incredible tool.

I now have one back-up part for next time. Plan to put a surge protector inline to help prevent this.
 
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