Become a TFP Supporter Pool Math Forum Rules Pool School
Results 1 to 9 of 9

Thread: NOVICE TO POOL CHEMISTRY

  1. Back To Top    #1

    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Bear,DE
    Posts
    4

    NOVICE TO POOL CHEMISTRY

    Help, little to no chlorine readings all summer. 2 pool stores later and plenty of money. Phosphates high, stabilizer was low, treated as told. A friend told me about this site and the TF-100 test kit, I purchased it since my original kit and the 2 different test strip kits give different readings. As of today , I have a 17000,gunite pool, with a fiberglass DE Filter flow rate is 150GPM. My numbers are: FC-4,CC 1-1.5, TC 5-5.5, PH 7.2, TA 120, CH 470,CYA 100
    52k gal/1300sqft white plaster wi spa, 2 Intelliflo 4x160, 2 C&C 420, Heat Siphon heat pump, PCC-2000, Intellitouch, CL&MA injection

  2. Back To Top    #2
    Guest

    Re: NOVICE TO POOL CHEMISTRY

    From your numbers the most immediate probolem is too high CYA and too low chlorine for that CYA level causing a nascent algae bloom, which is why you have so much CC. Stop using trichlor tabs right now and bring your FC level up to 35 with bleach to shock and keep it there until there is no CC. Then start on a series of partial drains and refills to lower your CYA to the proper range. Also, click on the pool school link at the top of the page and start reading everything there in order it's listed. Then read it all again. It will explain a lot of what you need to do and we will help you with the rest.

    Welcome to TFP!

  3. Back To Top    #3
    JasonLion's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Silver Spring, MD
    Posts
    37,887

    Re: NOVICE TO POOL CHEMISTRY

    Welcome to TFP!

    Your CYA level is too high, possibly way to high. You need to get your CYA level down below 100, preferably all the way down to somewhere around 50. One of the challenges is that the CYA test can read 100 when the CYA level is actually much higher, so it is difficult to be sure what the CYA level really is. The only practical way to lower the CYA level is to replace water.

    I hope your flow rate isn't really 150 GPM. That is way to high for a pool that size. Perhaps you are listing the maximum flow rate the filter allows rather than the actual flow rate?

    Without lowering the CYA level you would need really huge amounts of chlorine to fight algae, far far more than you have probably been using. It is much more practical to lower the CYA level first and then try to fight the algae.

    You also need to look at how your CYA level got so high. Trichlor tablets and dichlor granular "shock" both contain CYA. If you continue using them your CYA level will continue to go up and things will get even worse. I suggest you switch to bleach as your primary chlorine source. It won't add any more CYA or CH, both of which are already higher than ideal levels.
    19K gal, vinyl, 1/2 HP WhisperFlo pump, 200 sqft cartridge filter, AutoPilot Digital SWG, Dolphin Dynamic cleaning robot
    Creator of PoolMath and Pool Calculator. Other handy links: Support this site, TF Test Kits, Pool School

  4. Back To Top    #4

    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Bear,DE
    Posts
    4

    Re: NOVICE TO POOL CHEMISTRY

    Thank You for your help. We are gonna start emptying and replacing tonite. As far as the chlorine level. To get the fc up to 35 I 'll have to put about 9 gallons of bleach in . I'm I correct.
    Denise
    52k gal/1300sqft white plaster wi spa, 2 Intelliflo 4x160, 2 C&C 420, Heat Siphon heat pump, PCC-2000, Intellitouch, CL&MA injection

  5. Back To Top    #5
    Butterfly's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    South Carolina
    Posts
    10,045

    Re: NOVICE TO POOL CHEMISTRY

    Hi Denise and welcome to the forum!

    Yes, you are correct that you would need about 9 gals. of bleach to reach a FC of 35ppm.

    If you are going to start your water reaplacement tonight to lower the CYA, I'd wait on schocking the pool. Once you reach your target CYA level, you will be able to shock at a much lower FC level and use much less bleach to get there!

    Please be sure to read the article in Pool School on "Shocking your Pool".

    Let us know how things are going!
    TFP Moderator TF100 Test Kit TF100 TestKit YouTube Channel PoolMath
    You're done SLAMing when:
    1)You lose 1ppm or less FC overnight, & 2)You have .5ppm CC's or less, & 3)your water is clear.

    ~ One should not use a sledge hammer to swat a mosquito. ~

    If you found TFP helpful and we saved you money ... Become a TFP Supporter!

  6. Back To Top    #6

    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Bear,DE
    Posts
    4

    Re: NOVICE TO POOL CHEMISTRY

    After multiple drainings and refillings, I got my CYA down to between 35-40, Ch is 390 ,0 for FC,CC,TC , PH 7.8, ALK. 110. i SHOCK THIS MORNING WITH BLEACH TO RAISE THE FC TO 15-16. HOW DO I KEEP THE FC AT THE LEVVEL IT NEEDS TO BE ON A REGULAR BASIS.
    52k gal/1300sqft white plaster wi spa, 2 Intelliflo 4x160, 2 C&C 420, Heat Siphon heat pump, PCC-2000, Intellitouch, CL&MA injection

  7. Back To Top    #7
    Casey's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    SW PA
    Posts
    9,929

    Re: NOVICE TO POOL CHEMISTRY

    You have to keep adding it!

    The thing with liquid cholorine and algea blooms is that you have to babysit the pool, checking and adding chlorine 2-3 times a day for a couple days and then you can start slacking off... but not totally!

    BBB (the prefered method at TFP) requires 5 minutes a day.

    If you give it 5 minutes a day, you won't have problems with algae. Least I don't and you don't have to either!

    So~ You have to continually add chlorine every 4-6 hours til it stops consuming so much through the day and taper off to evening doses.

    You're on the right track! Good luck and please do post pics! We love pictures!
    I'd bet you my bikini you'll never get TFP water from a pool store!

    24' Sharkline Venture De Filter

  8. Back To Top    #8

    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Bear,DE
    Posts
    4

    Re: NOVICE TO POOL CHEMISTRY

    Maybe i'm mis understanding, I don't have any algae. Is there any pucks out there that doesn't add any thing else.
    52k gal/1300sqft white plaster wi spa, 2 Intelliflo 4x160, 2 C&C 420, Heat Siphon heat pump, PCC-2000, Intellitouch, CL&MA injection

  9. Back To Top    #9
    Guest

    Re: NOVICE TO POOL CHEMISTRY

    Quote Originally Posted by der59@comcast.net
    Maybe i'm mis understanding, I don't have any algae. Is there any pucks out there that doesn't add any thing else.
    You had a CC of 1-1.5 ppm. That is often an indication of a nascent algae bloom. The shock level you need is because of the high CYA levels in your pool.

    Trichlor is a slow dissolving chlorine that is made from chloirne and CYA , which is why it's called stabilzied. It adds stabilzier.
    There is a cal hypo capsule but it cannot be used in a feeder. It's used in the skimmer and only lasts about 2 days. It will also raise your calcium hardness over time so it has it's own set of problems. If you want to automate your chlorination without the problems of trichlor or cal hypo then you need to invest in either a SWG, peristaltic pump or the liquidator. The first one makes chlorine in your pool from salt, the second two are ways to automatically dose liquid chlorine or bleach. Non of them will cause overstablization or cause calcium hardness to rise.

    If your CYA is down to about 40 ppm then you need to add enough bleach every night to maintain your FC at about 4 ppm. It won't take that much bleach each time BUT it needs to be added every evening unless you use one of the automated systems I suggested above. Most pool lose about 1-2 ppm FC daily that needs to be replaced.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •