First test with the Taylor k-2006(fas-dpd chorine) kit

[sgt173]

Ok, I did my first test with the Taylor kit today and must say it was somewhat confusing to me compared to the simple one I used for years on my Hot Tub.I guess it will get easier as I use it more like anything else.I hope you guys can help me figure this out if you would cause I'm lost
Chlorine( free,combined)test Water temp 67
Using the 25ml sample scale for first time test and 1 scoop turned it pink so I went on to count 72 drops of r-0871 to get it clear, seems like a lot to me,so next time I will use the 10 ml scale to save regents for sure.So72x0.2=14.4 Very High right?
Then it took 7 drops r-3 not the five it said to get it back to pink. Was a right to add more than 5?
Then 2 drops r-0871 to go back to clear. 2x72=144
PH
I got about 7.8 still a little high though
used 2 drops r-5 to get it down to 7.6
then 4 drops r-6
TA
10 drops r-9 to go from green to red so 40ppm if i did it right
CH
40 drop sr-12 = 400
CYA
I couldn't see the black dot after only filling the tube 1/2 way up to the 100 mark not sure what to say that reading is I'm assuming it high.
Then I took a sample to the store and their reading was
TC 5.0.
FC 5.0,
CC 0.0
pH 7.8
Acid demand 1
TA 110
CH375
Stabilizer 100
Total Dissolved Solids 1,200 ppm. some of their readings dropped from last week some went up too.
I added 2 cups of bleach when I got back.
Last week was
TC 5.0.
FC 5.0,
CC 0.0
pH 8.0
Acid demand 2,
TA 90
CH375
Stabilizer 140
Total Dissolved Solids 1,100 ppm.
Now back to the mess I made testing it myself.What do you think?
Sorry for the long post I hope it made sense to you pros this is a little confusing to me still.Thanks for any help.

 

[JasonLion]

You are off to a great start, very close to figuring it all out. There are some minor math errors, simple enough to fix from your description.

It should never take more than 5 drops of R-0003, I suspect that you did the test too slowly, and the sample turned pink due to the total time taken, not due to CC. When doing the test with very high drop counts, you need to move quickly or your results can be wrong. The sample will always turn pink if you leave it sitting long enough, so you need to move along quickly enough to prevent that from happening. Assuming CC really was 2 drops, that would have been a CC of 0.4. However, I believe your CC was actually zero.

By the by, it is never worth doing the FAS-DPD chlorine test with a 25 ml sample. Doing so wastes reagent and the precision of the test is just fine with a 10 ml sample.

The acid demand and base demand tests are not useful to do unless you have a specific PH change that you already have in mind to make. Then they can tell you how much chemical to add. I don't bother with them at all, and simply use Pool Math instead.

On the TA test, you normally multiply drops by 10, not 4, so your TA result was 100.

With those corrections taken into account you agree with the pool store rather well. FC and CC are off because the pool store is using a test that only reads up to 5, so they are wrong for those two, not you.

 

[sgt173]

Thanks Jason, I'll get right some day.Next tests I will only use the 10 ml level to save my regents for sure.I was going to this time ,but I wanted to do start from there and see even though I knew I had a lot of chlorine in it. Its a learning process for sure.
So never use more than 5 drops R-0003 and do it faster?If it don't go to pink by then what should I do just continue or start over? I was taking my time trying to read the directions and get it right.
On the TA your right I was confused on that for sure 10 x 10 does = 100
Why does the pool store only use up to 5 ? I did the acid demand just to see if it was inline with what they was saying and it was really close for my pool size.I guess I have enough chlorine in it for now so I didn't add any this time just MA to get my PH down a little more.
Thanks Again
SGT173

 

[JasonLion]

The faster issue is only an issue with the FAS-DPD chlorine test when the drop count is going to be very high, say over 40. Using the smaller sample size you are far less likely to run into it. Over time you will get used to doing the test, and it will be easier to go quickly. For the moment, I wouldn't worry about it too much.

The much more common DPD chlorine test only reads FC levels up to 5 (10 with a modified procedure). In the pre-CYA days, reading up to 5 was more than enough. Everyone got used to using it, and it is both less expensive and quicker, so they stick with it despite it's problems/limitations.

 

[jblizzle]

If you add 5 drops of the R-0003 and the sample does not turn pink, then your CC is 0 and you are done with the test.

Save yourself the confusion and stop having the pool store test your water

 

[pwrstrk]

Here's a tip I recommend when doing your CC test. Have your R-0003 reagent ready to go. As soon as your done with the FC test move right to the CC test. This way there's little chance of the sample turning back to pink on you an you'll have an accurate CC test.

 

[Divin Dave]

Yup.
what everyone else has said is sound advice.

Hang in there sgt, you will get the knack of it in no time.

One thing I did notice in your test results that I will mention for your benefit in the future.

Your test shows your FC at 14ish, and I agree with how you obtained that result and that FC level correct. ....

so... here is todays chemistry lesson.

When your FC level is above 10, then the PH test becomes suspect. Hi FC can give false PH readings.
So going forward, get your FC down to below 10, before considering the Ph test actually valid and doing stuff to get it within the recommended range.

PS.
You did a decent job on your testing. For it being the 1st time, you did great, just fix that math error. And that is a LOT of typing all of that too, which IMO, just shows how willing you are to learn and provide sufficient info which is what we need in order to give good advice.

Good job man.

 

[sgt173]

I did another test today FC 14
CC 0
PH7.6
TA 90
CH 400
Dave what you said on your last post"to get your FC down to below 10, before considering the Ph test actually valid and doing stuff to get it within the recommended range". What would be the best way to get my FC down?

 

[pwrstrk]

Best way to get your FC down is to just let drift down on its own.

 

[Divin Dave]

what pwrstrk said is the best way. Just dont add any more chlorine at all until it gets down to where it should be, then just maintain it from that point on.

At this time of year, it might take a few days for it to get down that far.

 

[sgt173]

Thanks Guys,That is what I was hoping to hear.!
I stopped heating it and putting in the tabs when I got here and the water temp is at 62 today so I'm guessing it will take it awhile to get down to a 10.
Since I got the PH down to 7.6 do you think I should go for 7.4 or let it be there?

 

[duraleigh]

Leave your pH alone. It's fine where it is.....really anything between 7.2 and 7.8 is OK

 

[Richard320]

Nobody else has mentioned it, so I will.

Your CYA level is waaay too high. You tested over 100. So did both the pool store tests. If CYA really and truly is that high, then 14 FC isn't too high. That test needs to be repeated and done all the way, so you really know what the CYA level is. There are instructions for testing it after dilution here: Post 8, Step 9

 

[sgt173]

Richard,I was wondering about that myself before when I made my first test "I couldn't see the black dot after only filling the tube 1/2 way up to the 100 mark not sure what to say that reading is I'm assuming it high". At that point I didn't know what to do, but guess it was waaay high myself.
I did skip the CYA test today to save my regent for that test and the water was below 70 degrees too. Now my tap water here seems high in chlorine from the smell so would it be better to used distilled water to cut it in half with or does that matter?

 

[JasonLion]

If the dot disappears before you reach the black dot you call the result 100, and do the test again with dilution (1 part pool water plus 1 part other water then do the test normally and finally multiply the result by 2). Any water for dilution (except pool water) will do for doing the CYA test with dilution.

 

[sgt173]

Another note I forgot to add to the last post.The previous owner had the tube packed with about 5 tabs Triclor that was left here and the thing was set on wide open.
She only did what the pool store told her to do though.I haven't put any in since they melted off myself.I guess that is what made the CYA so High?
So My next question is should I keep using them after I get it back to normal and the weather gets hotter and we start using the pool.Or should I just use the liquid bleach method or the CYA gets too low?

 

[JasonLion]

We don't recommend using trichlor tablets in normal conditions. There are some special cases where they are handy, but none of those apply here. Trichlor tablets will raise the CYA too high if used regularly. 4 or 5 of them would not have much effect on the CYA level by themselves. It normally takes more than that to have a significant impact.

 

[sgt173]

Thanks Jason, I was told by the owner that she just put them in the 3" dispenser tube when it got low and added MA and chlorine from the pool store when they told her too.So I guess they have been used in the pool since they built it in 2010.They left a bucket with about 6 tabs left in it here.What would be some special cases I might need to keep them for other that to raise my CYA if it gets too low?

 

[Richard320]

Thanks Jason, I was told by the owner she just put them in the tube when it got low and added MA and chlorine from the pool store told her too.So I guess they have been used in the pool since they built it in 2010.They left a bucket with about 6 tabs left in it here.What would be some special cases I might need to keep them for other that to raise my CYA if it gets too low?

Vacation, mostly.

 

[sgt173]

OK,I did another full test with my Taylor test kit yesterday afternoon.
Water temp 64
FC 11 down from 14 last week!
CC 0.0
pH 7.8-7.6 back up from rain put 8 ozs MA in and brushed!
TA 90-100
CH 390-400 it went to a pale blue at 39 drops so i did 40
CYA over 100 again!
Questions:
When the instructions on TA say it should turn red does it mean Red or will a pinkish shade do?
Should there be like little red dots/lines floating in the tube after swirling good on the CH test or is my regents bad?
Should I just leave the CYA alone and let it go for now and will it go down on its own?
I have let out a little like a few inches and refilled a few times or does it have to be a
lot more water replaced at once? Pool calculator says at least 50% if its 100 and my goal is 50.
I think mine is a lot more than that I still only got the test tube up to where it says CYA and the dot was gone.
Should I really be worrying about such high CYA since the pool never gets any direct sunlight on it the way the house sets.
and I stopped using the tabs they used to put in it. I'm hoping it will eventually go down on its own.
I stopped using the tabs they left here when I moved in late November and plan on using just bleach from now on.
Any comments would be great. Am I worrying about nothing with the CYA ?
Thanks