Hi I am a new pool owner of which this is my first pool ever and i have been having it now for about 2 months. I have a Jandy JEP2.0 Variable speed filter pump and I am currently running my 25,000 gallon pool 11hrs 20mins a day at 1750rpm and 40mins a day at 3000rpm (When Cleaner is On). When I run my pump at 1750rpm my cartridge filter gauge reads 0 psi. Is this correct or should i be seeing some type of resistance reading from that gauge? When i put it on 2450rpm it reads 10spi and when i put it on 3450 (Max) it reads 20psi. Everything seems to be working fine but is it normal to have 0psi reading on 1750rpm and is it effectively filtering?
New Pool Low PSI on Filter
- Thread starter Calleblanc77
- Start date
Yes, that is typical behavior. With the pump off it is returning to 0 correct?
What is your filter pressure when the pump is on Max and the cartridges are clean?
What is your filter pressure when the pump is on Max and the cartridges are clean?
Yes when the pump shuts off it returns to zero. With the cartridges clean and the pump on Max 3450rpm the pressure is about 20psi. Again the pool is new and we have only been in the spa twice and it was this past weekend. Do you see anything wrong with running the pump at what I consider a slow rpm 1750 for 11hrs with the pressure gauge reading zero?
Yes, all normal. Pressure gauges don't read low psi very well, and tend to report it as zero when it is 1 or 2 or sometimes a bit higher. Lower pressure at lower speeds is completely normal.
Welcome! 
There's nothing wrong with your filter. I suspect you're running the pump too long. Even in summertime, my pool does fine with four hours a day, and most people discover they can do with a lot less than they thought. There's an article in Pool School about it.
What is worrisome is all this stuff in your signature: "UV & Corona Discharge Ozone, HC-3315 Chlorinator". UV & Ozone are not usually needed for an outdoors residential pool. And that chlorinator uses trichlor pucks. Every puck you add raises your CYA level about 1.3 PPM. In a pool your size, with a low 2 ppm FC loss per day, you'll use about a puck a day. So in a week, you'll have raised CYA 9 PPM. Every week. It won't take long before it gets high enough to become a real problem.
Have you checked out http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/123-abc-of-pool-water-chemistry or http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/142-how-to-chlorinate-your-pool ??
There's nothing wrong with your filter. I suspect you're running the pump too long. Even in summertime, my pool does fine with four hours a day, and most people discover they can do with a lot less than they thought. There's an article in Pool School about it.What is worrisome is all this stuff in your signature: "UV & Corona Discharge Ozone, HC-3315 Chlorinator". UV & Ozone are not usually needed for an outdoors residential pool. And that chlorinator uses trichlor pucks. Every puck you add raises your CYA level about 1.3 PPM. In a pool your size, with a low 2 ppm FC loss per day, you'll use about a puck a day. So in a week, you'll have raised CYA 9 PPM. Every week. It won't take long before it gets high enough to become a real problem.
Have you checked out http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/123-abc-of-pool-water-chemistry or http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/142-how-to-chlorinate-your-pool ??
Just one little thing to add in case you didn't already know, is clean your filter when the pressure rises 25% above the clean pressure. You take that pressure reading with your pump cranked all the way up.
Welcome!
What is worrisome is all this stuff in your signature: "UV & Corona Discharge Ozone, HC-3315 Chlorinator". UV & Ozone are not usually needed for an outdoors residential pool. And that chlorinator uses trichlor pucks. Every puck you add raises your CYA level about 1.3 PPM. In a pool your size, with a low 2 ppm FC loss per day, you'll use about a puck a day. So in a week, you'll have raised CYA 9 PPM. Every week. It won't take long before it gets high enough to become a real problem.
Have you checked out http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/123-abc-of-pool-water-chemistry or http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/142-how-to-chlorinate-your-pool ??
Thanks for the feedback as I am learning alot from this site but like I mentioned I am a first time pool owner and will probably stumble here or there till I get completely comfortable with everything but y'all's advice is very helpful. I may try to scale back the hours I am running my pool and possibly raise it during the summer when the pool gets some use. I went with a chlorinator due to pure convenience. I didn't realize each 3" puck would add 1.2ppm of CYA. I understand you can put bleach or pool chlorine in your pool to add chlorine and it won't mess with any of your other levels. Is 12% typically the strongest you can get?
Yes, this is about the high end, at least from what I've seen.Calleblanc77 said:
Since I see you have a spa, I'll pass along another consideration resulting from the regular use of pucks. If the spa's check valve is in the return flow and is close to the in-line chlorinator, it is getting a highly concentrated dose of chlorine passing through it. As a result, it will be subject to early failure. The most common telltale sign that your check valve is compromised is when the water level in the spa drops noticeably when the pump is off. The previous owner of our house was a regular puck user and would routinely place 6-8 pucks in the feeder. When we bought the house (prior to me switching to the TFP method), I continued using the pucks but cut it down to between 3 and 6 pucks placed in the feeder depending on the time of year. Not only did I wind up with high CYA, I was replacing check valves more frequently. Once I switched to TFP and used bleach by pouring it in front of a return jet with the pump on, both problems were solved.
I was aware of the check valve issue. The pool builder just had to change mine out as the original one installed never held. He changed it out and it started holding. Your pool is about the same gallon size as mine. How much does one gallon of 12% bleach or chlorine raise your chlorine level? The manufacturer of the uv/ozone system says to try to run .5-1ppm chlorine when running the system. From what I understand it is hard to keep that little chlorine in the pool during the summer. My chlorinator goes from 1-5 and now I have been running it on 1 (low) with 1-2 pucks and it has been keeping the CL at under 2ppm, but it is winter and no one is using the pool.
I have not found 12% bleach in the DFW area. When purchasing bleach, I would focus more on its freshness than the % concentration. The higher the concentration, the quicker it loses its potency, especially when it is subjected to heat. I have found 10% bleach at home improvement stores, but it must have been sitting around for a while as testing revealed that it was more like 6%. Therefore, I use 8.25% bleach purchased from grocery stores or warehouse clubs where rapid product turnover is much more likely.Calleblanc77 said:
If you want to see how much a specific dose of 12% bleach raises the chlorine level, you could use the PoolMath tool (http://www.troublefreepool.com/calc.html). One gallon of 8.25% bleach in my pool will raise the chlorine level by ~ 3.2 ppm
I cannot speak to the UV/Ozone system since I have no experience with it. I can, however, tell you that we recommend dosing chlorine at a level according the the CYA level of your pool as shown in the Chlorine CYA Chart