Algae again!

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yabbyfarm

0
Nov 24, 2014
42
Barossa/ South Australia
Hi all,

After testing and maintaining my pool chemicals by the book I still seem to have somehow another algae outbreak.

I haven't even used the pool in over 2 weeks, the cover has been on and the filter running 8 hours a day.

My latest test results are as follows.
FC=7
CC=0
PH=7.6
TA=65
CH=300
CYA=70

I can assure you that the FC has never dropped below 6.5 and there has never been any CC that I could measure.

I really am frustrated and confused by my pool turning a murky green yet again.

My only thought for a possible cause is that the pool cover has been on 24/7 and the temperature is in the low 30's.

please help.
 
I know any time I've left my cover on for more than a few days, I've got green visitors. If you're going to use the cover, take it off every couple days n brush the pool, sweep it and recover it. The pool needs to breath.

Now you have to SLAM the pool.

Just went back through some of your posts, are you still getting the yellow pollen? Is the pollen sticking to the top side of the solar cover? I still think you need to remover the cover every couple days n brush the pool.
 
Once you complete the SLAM process, I would suggest that you maintain the fc at 15% of the cya for 2 weeks and then at 10% for two weeks.

When you say that the temperature is in the low 30s, do you mean water temperature and are you using Celsius?
 
We keep our pool covered nearly all the time and maintain the pool at 88ºF (31ºC) and even when we had 3000+ ppb phosphates the pool would not get algae when the FC/CYA recommended levels were maintained. However, the pool cover was mostly opaque as opposed to a bubble-type cover that let light in.

In the thread you posted Cover = algae, it sounded like the conclusion was that it was pollen, but this time it sounds like the water was OK when you covered it and it turned green after the cover was left on. Since you are in Australia, what test kit are you using to get your results?

Also, did you ever try lowering the pH to see if the green lightens up? If it does, then it could be copper from the algaecide the pool store had you use in the past though that would be a clear green and not a cloudy green. Your water doesn't look so much like having algae though -- that's usually more cloudy before it gets a darker green or it gets visible algae in clumps. Are you getting murky green in the backwash as you did before when you had this problem (in the other thread)?
 
CC and algae are really not related. CC is usually due to bather waste and nitrogen based products. I think that the issue here is mustard algae, which is more resistant to chlorine than regular green algae. This is partly due to the presence of beta carotine, which is an anti-oxidant. The beta carotine is what gives the algae a yellow or brown color

Mustard algae requires a higher fc/cya of about 15 % if there is any source of reinfestation such as light niches, covers etc.
 
Thanks for the responses.

I discovered the pool green in the late evening yesterday when I tested the water. I have removed the cover and am tempted to shred it and put it in the recycle bin.

Them water temperature is around the 31°C - (88°f). I have been very careful to remove as much pollen and dirt as possible when removing the cover to try and minimize the amount that will re enter the pool when the cover is put back on.

I'm using the Taylor K-2005C - DPD test kit, imported from the USA.

Some pollen does still enter the pool and is responsible for some of the dis-coloration but I did notice some algae starting to grow on the sides of the pool and on the steps.

I have had the PH mainly between 7.5 and 7.6. I put acid in whenever it gets to 7.8.

I'll take a photo of the pool when I get home this afternoon and also a photo of the filter before I clean it.
Since I am at work all day I didn't want to start SLAMMING until I had a few hours at least to start the process.

With regards to the cover... would it be better to remove it during the day time to let the light hit the water? or remove it at night to let it breath a little? Also would the fact that my cartridge filter and pumps are in direct sunlight cause these kinds of problems? during the day the heat would give Death Valley a run for its money sometimes. I'm wondering if that is where my problem may lie.
 
You are missing the FAS/DPD chlorine test that is required to know the exact level of FC instead of guessing by color matching. Your test only included the DPD chlorine test which is not equivalent to the FAS/DPD test.

The FAS/DPD test uses Taylor reagents R-0870 and R-0871 and will measure the FC level to an accuracy level of .2 ppm if desired.

To pass the SLAM the water needs to lose 1ppm or less of FC overnight and the only way to test this is with a FAS/DPD test.

My best guess at this point is that all the algae was not killed off and it returned even though the water looked clear. All three criteria must be met for the SLAM process to be completed or else the algae will return.
 

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ping said:
You are missing the FAS/DPD chlorine test that is required to know the exact level of FC instead of guessing by color matching. Your test only included the DPD chlorine test which is not equivalent to the FAS/DPD test.

The FAS/DPD test uses Taylor reagents R-0870 and R-0871 and will measure the FC level to an accuracy level of .2 ppm if desired.

To pass the SLAM the water needs to lose 1ppm or less of FC overnight and the only way to test this is with a FAS/DPD test.

My best guess at this point is that all the algae was not killed off and it returned even though the water looked clear. All three criteria must be met for the SLAM process to be completed or else the algae will return.
Click to expand...

The kit I'm using contains the reagents you mentioned.
 
No I think I have the 2006.

just to confirm testing for FC correctly.
I fill the tube to 10mm
add 2 scoops of Taylor DPD powder.
add reagent Taylor FAS-DPD Titrating Reagent (Chlorine) 60ml #R-0871-C untill the water is clear.
count the drops and multiply by 0.5 = FC in ppm.

This is the actual test kit and place of purchase.
http://www.poolvacparts.com/taylor-fas-dpd-test-kit-chlorine-service-size.html
 
Now I'm a little confused. After running the pump over night and all day the water has cleared up again without me adding any extra chlorine.
I have taken photos of the pool and filter for you to look at.





I cleaned this filter yesterday. So this is the result of 1 night and 1 afternoon of filter running.
Is is simply a case of my filter is not big enough or I'm not running it long enough even with the cover on?
 
I think that it's mustard algae, which requires extra care to prevent recurrences. After a full Slam, I would suggest maintaining the fc/cya at 15% for 2 weeks and extra filtration time.

Note that as long as all of the mustard algae is eradicated during the Slam, you should be able to maintain normal fc/cya ratios. However, I have found that there is usually some hiding somewhere, such as in the filter, in the light niche, on the cover etc. Therefore, I have found it useful to maintain an elevated ratio for a while just to be sure.
 
Being simply honest, you cannot grow Algae when you have enough FC in the water. Either it HAS dropped lower than you think, or maybe the cya was higher. Whatever the cause Algae will not grow when there is enough FC in the pool. Somewhere along the line you were lacking FC. It has nothing to do with filtration time you mention, or the cover.
 
If it is Mustard Algae you've never completely killed it. Quite common if that did happen as it is a very tough one to kill off. If you notice, MA needs higher levels of FC to kill. I imagine that's what is going on if You've had it. To be sure, do a SLAM at Mustard Algae levels and don't let up until all of it is dead. If you leave a trace, it will come back. Once the pool is clean, you won't get more MA or "regular" Algae if you keep good, and proper FC levels. I promise you this is true.
 
As brushpup says, filtration is not related to algae growth.

Algae does not grow in the presence of adequate chlorine. If you have algae growth, you have inadequate chlorine.....it really is always that simple.
 

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