Pentair Inellichlor IC40 green salt level blinking - not producing chlorine

[maryod]

My salt generator is 1 year and 9 months old. Cell light is green, flow light green, salt level blinking green, unit not producing chlorine. Although green salt level light usually indicates high salt, my test confirmed by 2 pool stores has the level at 2800. I cleaned the cell which looked clean and did not even bubble when I added the muriatic acid solution. Pentair said the salt sensor probably went bad, so I bought and installed a new sensor switch and got exactly the same situation as I had -- green salt level flashing, green cell light, green flow, no chlorine. Tested the chemicals and phosphates are less than 100. Stablilizer and calcium were low so I brought them up to correct level but no change in situation. I "reset" the unit by turning the breaker off, but no change.

Does anyone know where I could send/take the unit for testing? Most pool stores can test Haywood cells but I haven't found one that can test Pentair. I've pretty much resigned myself to having to replace the unit, but If I had proof the unit is broken I could be reimbursed on the extended warranty on my Visa card.

Is there a better choice for SWG than Pentair? I realize changing systems will require a new power center but I don't want to buy a new unit every 1-1/2 or so!

Thank you for any assistance!

 

[JasonLion]

What is your water temperature? Very warm water (90+) can sometimes give a false high salt reading on the SWG. On the other hand if the water is cold, the unit is simply broken. While if the water is normal swim temperature, there is a reasonable chance that both pool stores are wrong and the salt level actually is too high.

No SWG company makes a perfect product. The main difference is that Pentair puts more of the electronics into the cell, which means more expensive cell replacement. Other than that, they all work well much of the time and have problems occasionally.

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I thought of one more thing to check. A piece of metal in the cell causing a partial short in just the wrong spot could possibly give this symptom. Remove the cell and examine it as closely as possible making sure there is no debris stuck inside that might be shorting something inside the cell.

 

[maryod]

What is your water temperature? Very warm water (90+) can sometimes give a false high salt reading on the SWG. On the other hand if the water is cold, the unit is simply broken. While if the water is normal swim temperature, there is a reasonable chance that both pool stores are wrong and the salt level actually is too high.

No SWG company makes a perfect product. The main difference is that Pentair puts more of the electronics into the cell, which means more expensive cell replacement. Other than that, they all work well much of the time and have problems occasionally.

- - - Updated - - -

I thought of one more thing to check. A piece of metal in the cell causing a partial short in just the wrong spot could possibly give this symptom. Remove the cell and examine it as closely as possible making sure there is no debris stuck inside that might be shorting something inside the cell.

Thanks -- I checked as closely as possible and didn't see anything. Could there be a problem with the PCB in the power center? Are you familiar with the Pentair diagnostic wand? I couldn't find a data sheet on it, and I know it hooks up to a laptop on the usb end but where does the other end go?