Aqualink configuration and understanding

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isriam

Well-known member
Jan 15, 2015
201
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Let me tell you of my pool and then ask my questions :)

12,000 gallon in ground pool, kidney shape with a small 2-3 foot rock waterfall feature. 5 feet deep at the max, probably 4'6". The pool is almost all the same depth, and has a 1,000 gallon round spa attached with overflow into pool. Filter is 60sqft pentair DE, heater is raypak 400,000btu. Two skimmers, main drain, spa drain (and fountain which i plugged). I have a cleaner connected to a 3/4hp booster pump. I have two jandy automatic valves (return half open for pool/spa since i plugged spa fountain), connected to an aqualink rs4/rs8. I just today installed a pentair intelliflo vs. The previous pump was a 2hp centrion.

My question is mostly about the aqualink and understanding it. I have the exterior panel that all the pool pump and valves are connected to. I removed it, and it has the old style big battery. I'm assuming this is a 1997 or so configuration. Inside, I have a control panel that says aqualink RS4, and in system info it says V 6522 REV GG. I noticed the new devices only say aqualink RS.

I want to know how to upgrade this, what parts i could/should upgrade, and if using the 230v relay to power on/off my pentair until i upgrade the aqualink is going to harm the pump. I might could figure out 230 direct wire, but as of tonight im simply using the existing relay since the pump remembers its last setting and seems to resume based on the relay on/off.

Do i need to upgrade the exterior panel only, and leave the rs4 controller inside? Does the controller even matter as long as the exterior panel is the latest? I have a line on some cheap parts including iaqualink module, but before i purchase I want to understand exactly how this works, and what options I have. I've also seen some users using rs485 with raspberrypi and the like, which I'm game for once i get my system upgraded to control the VS pump.

Thanks!
 
thanks. I had no idea there was a forum out there like this, but i'm totally a diyer, and i believe in doing it the right way which is why i try and do it myself :)

mostly im concerned with knowing what to upgrade first on my aqualink, and whether or not i'm harming the pump by powering it off a relay instead of direct wire.
 
thanks brush. i'm gonna probably try to buy a main controller first, as i think the inside module is just an extension of the "aqualink pda" type function since it seems to work as a rs485 extention with simple phone wire.
 
I just did an upgrade very similar to this. I had a Jandy P4 with a PDA (pool only). It was installed around 2006 so not as old as yours. Last weekend I replaced my noisy single speed filter pump with an Intelliflo VS. I wired the pump directly to the breaker and used the built in control on the pump. It worked fine and I though about keeping it setup that way but decided I wanted better control. After much reading, most of it on this site, I decided the best way for me to go was to purchase an upgraded RS8 (Pool & Spa) controller with Rev T firmware along with the iaqualink. I found a kit with everything I needed for about $550. It was an easy install and after reading a post, again, on this site, was able to get the iaqualink working with the Intelliflo pump. Now sitting in my easy chair setting up programs.

Not sure if this upgrade would work with your panel but might be worth looking at.
 
thanks, im gonna look at the same config. i think that as long as i get the main controller rev O or greater it will manage variable speed pumps, and then i'll add iaqualink as a "remote" and remove the interior panel controller.

like other threads, im amazed at how much these cost and how little documentation there is. Also i'm surprised they arent making these with flashable parts so you could simple purchase firmware and upgrade yourself. they must be making a killing.
 
I spoke to a guy on ebay who explained the system very well, the upgrades and past history of these boards.

44 pin boards are old, prior to 2006 and cannot be upgraded. they are like rev G through MMM. after you upgrade to 52 pin, the board and cpu are now seperate components. If you buy a 52 pin board you must make sure you get a CPU. Rev R or T are the latest, with S being discontinued.

The all touch or rs4 all button controller inside, can control any of the boards as a basic on/off mechanism. It cannot program variable speed based on what i understood.

So it looks like you can do an iaqualink 2.0 RS kit, which includes the pcb, cpu, and iaqualink access module for about 600. Thats cheaper than just a board or system for most of these things.
 

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If someone is trying to sell you a iQ900RS for cheap, i wouldn't advise getting it unless you have a router that still supports B band wireless OR you are planning to network wire direct and not use the wireless connection. That is the shortcoming of that version.
 
cheap is relative i guess to the current MSRP. i picked one up for 375 brand new in the box with rev T cpu.

The wifi is a little weak, but my RSSI field states 2/5 bars and 3/5 bars so it's decent. I heard its B only, but that is pretty common with most AP's these days. I've become well educated about all of the Aqualink stuff due to this.
 
The iq20rs will support the newer band routers that are more common today. That is probably why you can find the 900s for cheap. Its not that you will get less bars with the older ver, it just plain wont talk to anything other than "b" band (wireless).
 
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