Replacing Aqualink RS6 Rev G with iAqualink

[TexPoolDummy]

Hello all! I'm new to the forum but I've spent the last several days lurking through the pages to learn as much as I can about the Aqualink systems. In the past week, my Aqualink RS6 (Rev G) completely died. No power to speak of. Pool guy tells me that the Power Control Board (PCB) is bad. My thinking is that this is a good opportunity to upgrade.

Last year I upgraded all of my pool equipment which now includes a Pentair Intelliflo VS. Also have a waterfall pump, booster pump for my Polaris, blower for the hot tub and a natural gas heater. The heater is still the original from like 1997. Have a pool and spa sharing the same system. Needless to say, the RS6 wasn't cutting it, so an upgrade looks good.

I'm waiting for a quote from the pool repair company, but meanwhile, I've been doing my own research.

I'm trying to determine whether I can upgrade my system by installing the IQ20-RS conversion kit. Best I can tell, that includes a new PCB and CPU (which would replace my existing PPD chip) http://www.sunplay.com/Zodiac-iAquaLink-Interface-Kit-IQ20-RS-p/iq20-rs.htm

My confusion is that there is a bunch of talk about compatibility with different Revisions, but then this kit talks about upgrading the firmware revision. I'm not aware the Zodiac does flash updates, so are they just switching out chips?

I'm also considering the AquaLink Touch (TCHLNK-WF / wired, flush mount) to replace my RS6 All Button keypad. Is this compatible with the IQ20-RS system? Does anyone have experience with the Touch that they would like to share?

I would appreciate any input from the group.

 

[Pool Clown]

Upgrading to the iAquaLink (iQ20-RS) should give you the firmware revision you need for the Pentair group.

Now, a couple of things you should do and consider first. Before you buy anything, confirm that the board has died and not the x former. The IQ20-RS upgrade does not come with a x former. It would be an expensive lesson to find out x former died after the purchase of an unneeded board.

Confirm you are sitting down when you get the price for the new indoor control panel (touch). Yes, that's really the price! You may want to consider the Onetouch ICP instead. Its about half the price.

Note: When you upgrade to the iAquaLink, your iPhone, Android, Table, or desktop will now replace (the functions of) your indoor wired remote, so you wont need the upgrade ICP, unless of course you want it. Also, the touch has the same interface as you get with the iPhone, Andriod, Tablet and desktop, so no extra features with the touch (with relation to the automation).

 

[TexPoolDummy]

Thank you for the thoughts Pool Clown. I did check the transformer and do have voltage passing through. I tried a new transformer, just for the heck of it, and no joy.

Looks like I'll go forward with the purchase of the IQ20-RS system. I'm going to do the installation myself as I've not found anyone with the experience level that would make a professional install worth while. Example: I was told that if I want to control my Pentair, I need to switch to a Pentair automation system.

I may hold off on the Touch for now. I've found it online for around $750, so agree with your assessment. Although, keeping the Mrs. happy with an easy to use interface may be worth it. The one touch seems less intuitive. I figure I can use my RS6 panel for basic functions and use the iAqualink interface for now. Maybe upgrade the panel a bit later.

I'll post updates on my experience on the installation.

 

[Pool Clown]

Not to push you to the one touch. I personally like it. It has a very straight forward interface. May be a plus for your wife.

 

[TexPoolDummy]

Appreciate the input on the OneTouch. May have to give it some consideration. Meanwhile, I've ordered the IQ20-RS package from Sunplay. Figure I'll be embarking on the project in about two weeks.

My biggest concern in the conversion is uninstalling the Pentair IntelliCom adapter and going straight to RS board. I understand with the new revision, it is no longer required. Any thoughts or advice on how to do this? Maybe it is more straight forward than I think, but I'd rather collect information now then when I'm plugging in wires.

Thanks in advance!

 

[JasonLion]

Removing the IntelliComm II is simple enough, just disconnect everything running to it. Then you run a data cable from the pump that used to go to the IntelliComm II to the correct port on the RS instead. The wiring is fairly simple, while programming the RS to take advantage of the new connection is often a little more complex, though not really difficult, just more options to choose between.