Guys,
I am very very pleased with TF-100 test kit....
Its the best money I ever spent for my pool. Its worth the wait of 3 months, since I ship it with my other goods from USA.
Anyhow what I learnt is that because my pool is so deep at 13 feet about 60% of its length, immediate drop off from 4 feet to 13 feet somewhere close to the middle that is.... and the inlet nozzles...6 of them are located about 1 feet from surface and having only 1 main drain at the bottom and deep end of the pool....I get different FC reading from different corners of the pool. Bottom line is that, my pool water circulation is worse than I thought !!! :grrrr:
The pump will suck water from an overflow tank and from the main drain. The overflow tank is also a balancing tank. The pool is always over filled with water so that overflow will occur and the top water layer will move out of the pool to carry all floating dust & the like. It will then flow to the gutter which is all around the pool and eventually will flow into the overflow/balancing tank.
I have set all my inlet nozzles to point as low as possible but that does not do much help for better circulation. If I know any better, I would have the inlet nozzles located much deeper if not at the bottom scattered around. The overflow/balancing tank is sized to also to handle at least 250 gallons of water being displaced by swimmers. The good thing of having this tank is that the pool have no scum line, because its always overfilled. The tank instead gets the scum line, since on average its only 1/3 full when there are no swimmers. The tank is also good to "catch" the oil from suntan lotion or whatever body oil swimmers produce. On the downside, the gutter waterflow falling into the tank resembles a waterfall and aeration happens, thus I need to add 1 liter ( apporx 1.1 quart ) 31% Muriatic Acid ever week or so to lower the PH.
I also think due to the partial sunlight shining on my pool, it may cause different FC consumption on different part of the pool. Part of the pool is in constant shade, covered by my building.
I am getting up to 1 ppm FC difference ( higher ) reading between one side of the pool where the inlet nozzles are slow/weak due to being on the longer pipe run, compared to the pool side with good water flow.
I notice the same thing happening to my friend's pool where the kids pool joins the bigger pool and water flow is slower at the kids pool. There is 0.5PPM higher FC on the kids pool.
Do you guys here ever test your pool water at different spots just to check if the FC are well distributed ?
With the OTO, I can't tell 0.5PPM difference in yellow shade of color.
My logics tell me that if I can't distribute my FC or sanitation as well/fast as other common shape/depth pool, that means my filtration will need more pump run time to get a 100% true water filtration...meaning my pool water clarity stability against high bather load will suffer.
I am beggining to hate my PB more and more...
Regards,
SPP
I am very very pleased with TF-100 test kit....
Its the best money I ever spent for my pool. Its worth the wait of 3 months, since I ship it with my other goods from USA.
Anyhow what I learnt is that because my pool is so deep at 13 feet about 60% of its length, immediate drop off from 4 feet to 13 feet somewhere close to the middle that is.... and the inlet nozzles...6 of them are located about 1 feet from surface and having only 1 main drain at the bottom and deep end of the pool....I get different FC reading from different corners of the pool. Bottom line is that, my pool water circulation is worse than I thought !!! :grrrr:
The pump will suck water from an overflow tank and from the main drain. The overflow tank is also a balancing tank. The pool is always over filled with water so that overflow will occur and the top water layer will move out of the pool to carry all floating dust & the like. It will then flow to the gutter which is all around the pool and eventually will flow into the overflow/balancing tank.
I have set all my inlet nozzles to point as low as possible but that does not do much help for better circulation. If I know any better, I would have the inlet nozzles located much deeper if not at the bottom scattered around. The overflow/balancing tank is sized to also to handle at least 250 gallons of water being displaced by swimmers. The good thing of having this tank is that the pool have no scum line, because its always overfilled. The tank instead gets the scum line, since on average its only 1/3 full when there are no swimmers. The tank is also good to "catch" the oil from suntan lotion or whatever body oil swimmers produce. On the downside, the gutter waterflow falling into the tank resembles a waterfall and aeration happens, thus I need to add 1 liter ( apporx 1.1 quart ) 31% Muriatic Acid ever week or so to lower the PH.
I also think due to the partial sunlight shining on my pool, it may cause different FC consumption on different part of the pool. Part of the pool is in constant shade, covered by my building.
I am getting up to 1 ppm FC difference ( higher ) reading between one side of the pool where the inlet nozzles are slow/weak due to being on the longer pipe run, compared to the pool side with good water flow.
I notice the same thing happening to my friend's pool where the kids pool joins the bigger pool and water flow is slower at the kids pool. There is 0.5PPM higher FC on the kids pool.
Do you guys here ever test your pool water at different spots just to check if the FC are well distributed ?
With the OTO, I can't tell 0.5PPM difference in yellow shade of color.
My logics tell me that if I can't distribute my FC or sanitation as well/fast as other common shape/depth pool, that means my filtration will need more pump run time to get a 100% true water filtration...meaning my pool water clarity stability against high bather load will suffer.
I am beggining to hate my PB more and more...
Regards,
SPP
