New Pool - Acid Question

Sep 24, 2014
10
Kissimmee, FL
Hello Guys, I my pool just finished getting built here in Kissimmee, FL and I have a concern.

The builder a GC came over and dumped 8 gallons of muriatic acid in the just filled pool. I asked why and he said to clean the plaster dust and residue.
He said it's safe to swim in it in 3-4 days because the acid evaporates, is that true? I thought he had to use Soda ash to neutralize the acid.

Just before the acid the PH was at over 7.8 now it's way low, it doesn't even register in the test kit.

I have a pool guy coming over on Saturday as I'm new however the plan is to be very involved in its maintenance.

On the other hand the plaster looks beautiful I think, and I didn't have to do any scrubbing as the acid just cleaned it good.

Thanks for your feedback. I'll post test results soon once my kit arrives.

Here is a pic:
pool1.jpg
 
That is a common plaster startup approach, nothing to worry about. Acid starts are the most common approach. It is very simple to do and gives consistently acceptable results. Adding acid helps keep plaster dust under control and gives you a couple of days before you need to worry about constant acid additions to keep the PH under control.

Acid does not evaporate, that part is just silly. Instead the acid gets neutralized by the plaster as it cures.
 
I ordered the Taylor K-2006. Since it's going to take a while to get here I had the water tested at the pool store.

Here are the results:

TC 0
FC 0
CC 0
pH 7.0
Acid Demand *
Base Demand 30 (not sure what this is)
TA 0
CH 250
Stabilizer 0
Total Dissolved Solids 700

Pool Store recommendations are:

Add chlorine
Add 21 pounds of Alkalinity Increaser
Add Liquid Chlorine 1.5 Gallons
Add 6 pounds of Stabilizer

The contractor doesn't want to raise the pH too quickly as he says plaster still curing and getting cleaned with the muriadic acid.

Thanks for any assistance,
 
It's always good to know what the goals or target is. If you add the 6 lbs of stabilizer (CYA) that should bring you up close to 50ppm and in Florida that should be good.
21 lbs of alkalinity increaser should take you up to around 95.
The bleach you need to know the strength as 1.5 gallons of 6%, 8%, 12.5% will all get you to a different FC level.
With a CYA level of 50 you will want to achieve and maintain your FC at 6 and make sure it doesn't dip below 4ppm between additions.

This is where the "Pool Math" calculator comes in soooooooo handy. http://www.troublefreepool.com/calc.html
 
Thanks for the info guys. Here are some more photos.
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This last one was our yard before the pool.
 

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1) So you can drain some water or take a water sample. Sometimes used to pressure test the system too I think.
2) Trichlor tablet feeder ... not typically recommended by TFP to use trichlor unless you know you need the CYA.
 
Since your Waste line just ends a couple feet from the filter it might be that instead of attaching a 1.5 or 2" soft hose to direct water away from the house they just used a garden hose to get the water out to the yard when they needed to drop the water level some. Could also be for taking a sample but I wouldn't angle it up for that. I'm thinking (guessing) because it's up, it's a bleed but but I don't see a need :confused:

Yup, chlorinator for adding chlorinating sticks like Jblizzle said. Good for when you go on vacation or some time when you're away and there isn't anyone to add bleach but the trade off is the chlorine gets used up but the CYA included in the sticks or tabs just keeps accumulating.

- - - Updated - - -

AND ... don't worry about "noob" questions, it's what we do best. ;) As far as that spigot it's totally understandable why you don't understand it as so far neither do we :confused:
 

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