Help with chlorine source in Netherlands

[edwin2014]

Split by moderator from HERE. Guess you missed the first sentence in the sticky Please always ask questions in your own thread. Thanks, jblizzle

Is "On a fresh fill use Dichlor" ment like melpool 55/G or 63/G (http://www.apereirajordao.pt/xms/files/Produtos/Piscinas/Melpool_63-G-70-G.pdf). Any other suggestion for the Netherlands?
Trying to switch over to the TFP Cholrine method but strugling with the right products to use.
Ant help in finding the right thing would be great. So far everything found but this one is puzling me.

btw would trichloor also be ok?

 

[jblizzle]

You could simply add stabilizer if you have it available to you and forgo using dichlor. That PDF does say that the product is dichlor, though, so it would be fine. Trichlor would also work, but it dissolves much more slowly.

 

[chem geek]

At 63% available chlorine (typical), that product is Dichlor anhydrous rather than the more common Dichlor dihydrate. That's no problem, but means you'll use a little less so in PoolMath you can reduce the quantity it calculates by about 12%.

After you've used Dichlor to build up around 30-40 ppm CYA, do you have access to bleach you can subsequently use for chlorine?

 

[edwin2014]

@jbizle, oeps sorry

I've access to 12,5% bleach/chlorine and muratic accid should be available in diy store.
Melpool/melspring is somewhat the brand available but there is little information on there site but the also have a stabiliser.
Another approach would be to ask them which product to use if you could provide me with the generic name of the product to use (stabilasor and / or dichlor)

 

[jblizzle]

Stabilizer is cyanuric acid.
See your pdf for the expanded Dichlor name.

 

[edwin2014]

Thanx. Was not sure if dichlor was alright

 

[jblizzle]

Dichlor is fine if you understand everything that it does ... it affects 3-4 of the pool parameters. Like chem geek said, you have to switch to liquid after the CYA is in range.

 

[edwin2014]

I used aqua finesse and when i changed water i changed to tfp. Only problem is that stuff that's easy to get in the usa (ahh-some, aqua comb, tftestkit etc) are hard to get in the netherlands or have a different name.

 

[chem geek]

If you are going to use the Dichlor-then-bleach method (see the Pool School article and sticky in this forum Using Chlorine in a Spa), then to minimize the rate of pH rise you'll lower your TA to around 50 ppm but to provide additional pH buffering you'll want 50 ppm Borates. I'm not sure if you can get either boric acid or Borax where you live. Boric Acid may be available in drug stores (chemists). For example, search this site for Boorzuur which is boric acid. For 50 ppm Borates in 478 gallons, you'll need 517 grams and they sell 1000 g for €11.70 which is a good price. It shows "Giftig" which means toxic because you don't want to ingest it in concentrated form. You can read more about borates safety in the thread Are Borates Safe to Use?.

Since you can't get Ahh-Some, you can use the Aquafinesse Spa Clean Tablet just before you change the water, at least initially. If you properly maintain the spa you shouldn't need this, but some people find that such products still remove greases that accumulate in piping since they are sticky and chlorine doesn't completely get rid of them.

 

[edwin2014]

Borax, baking soda, muriatic acid and chorine 12.5 are no real problem to purchase.
Tf100 kit etc and ahh-some i took with me in suitcase when returning from usa
Spa is used before and i was unable to measure chlorine over night, even if i added 400mL the evening before. So there had to be something, somewhere.

Over the two last days i peformed the ahh-some cleanup 4 times and now i have almost clear foam so i refilled the spa and added 58mL chloride. A few hours testted the water and got:
PH 7.5
FC 4.0
CC 0,5
CH 150
TA 150
Temp 18.5 c climbing
Cya still zero, need to find stabilizer.
MA picking op tomorrow to lower PH in an affort to lower TA

 

[edwin2014]

A update on my side.
I found:
Muriatic Acid but it is 30% instead of 29%. Label says Zoutzuur 30% / Acide Chlorhydrique 30% at local building store
CYA Melpool ICA label says Cyaanzuur 98,5%
I was wondering how much CYA and Chloor one tablet of Aquafinesse 20gr that says Trichloorisocyaanzuur 100% (85% akt. chloor) add's to CYA level
Liquid Chloride label says Natriumhypochloriet 12.5% at DIY store

Can someone confirm this is the right stuff ?

 

[chem geek]

The 30% is close enough to the 29% or 31.45% that PoolMath uses or you can use 29% in PoolMath and multiply the amount it says you need by 29/30.

For every 10 ppm Free Chlorine (FC) added by Trichlor, it also increases Cyanuric Acid (CYA) by 6 ppm. That rule is independent of concentration of product or of pool size.

Cyaanzuur is correct since this is Dutch for Cyanuric Acid.

Natriumhypochloriet is correct since this is Dutch for Sodium Hypochlorite.

 

[edwin2014]

Thanks. Glad i got the right stuff. If anyone is interested you've got to be at bouwmax and fixet. Melpool is just poolstore or internet.

 

[zethacat]

No Walmart in the Netherlands?

 

[edwin2014]

Nop, but that not the worse part. Getting a tfkit, that's hard
Wondering if there would be interest if i started to resell tfkit's in the netherlands/eu.....

 

[chem geek]

Getting the TFTestkits TF-100 or the Taylor K-2006 available in Europe would be great, but in the meantime the closest kit would be a combination of the Palintest SP 315C with the Palintest FAS-DPD.