My 3.5 year old Jandy ePump has the dreaded "pump offline" error - I'm still not sure what the problem is, however, other threads have suggested the motor driver. I'm guessing a service call to diagnose is going to start at $200+. I have seen the gen 1 epump motors for around $600, but honestly I really just use two speeds - slow for normal filtering and max power for the spa - so is the stealth epump pump housing the same as the regular stealth? Can I just replaced with a two speed motor that will hopefully last more than three years and cost 1/2 as much?
Jandy epump dead - can I replace entire motor assembly with two speed?
- Thread starter smccull
- Start date
- May 3, 2007
- 16,832
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
It is the same wet end as the Stealth series of pumps. You would just need to get the appropriately sized motor for the JEP 1.5 or 2.0 impeller. This would be a full rated two speed motor with a 56Y frame. I would recommend the high efficiency E-Plus Century Motor. Either a B2983 for a JEP 1.5 or a B2984 for the JEP 2.0.
Don't forget a new seal too.
Don't forget a new seal too.
Thanks Mark. I got it apart this morning, pulled apart the VS driver - two of the capacitors were blown open - unfortunately all the VS electronics are in epoxy so replacement of the cap is out of the question. Looks like mud wasp built nest up in the cooling fins of the electronics. The original motor is a 48Y frame, but it appears that 48Y and 56Y are interchangeable if you remove the support under the motor.
It was a JEP 2.0 originally - service factor on motor was 1.35 so total output 2.7 - only used high speed for the spa - I wonder if I will be disappointed with the 1.5 instead? I had a fair bit of cavitation at high speed with the spa. I didn't feel there was a huge difference in the spa between 3000 rpm vs 3450, but below 3000 rpm the performance fell off. We do have an air booster. Any thoughts?
Steve
It was a JEP 2.0 originally - service factor on motor was 1.35 so total output 2.7 - only used high speed for the spa - I wonder if I will be disappointed with the 1.5 instead? I had a fair bit of cavitation at high speed with the spa. I didn't feel there was a huge difference in the spa between 3000 rpm vs 3450, but below 3000 rpm the performance fell off. We do have an air booster. Any thoughts?
Steve
- May 3, 2007
- 16,832
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
That is very unlikely with a spa because the return side is restricted with the jets. Air in the pump basket is not the same as cavitation so do you just see air in the pump basket or do you actually hear something that sounds like pebbles going through the pump?
To downsize, you would need to swap out the impeller to get down to 1.5 HP.
How many spa jets do you have?
What size is the suction side plumbing?
Yeah it sounded like it was full of bb's - in fact the first time I opened the pump basket and checked - I thought there may have been debris in there. So it's a fairly large tub with 6 jets - after reading some of your articles I see my problem may be my jet orifice - it's a full 1" on each jet! I suspect I need to downsize! This is what I get for not reading up before trusting my pool builder - he selected the jets. So I wonder if I should swap the impeller anyway.
All plumbing is 2" - roughly 65-70' run from pump to tub and about the same for the pool as well.
So now I'm torn, if I downsize the jets to the point where I lose the cavitation, the VS seems more attractive as you could taylor the pump speed,to get the jet force you desire.
Of course the replacement VS motor is 2X the cost of the two speed - I can buy a lot of jets to tinker with for a fraction of the cost difference
All plumbing is 2" - roughly 65-70' run from pump to tub and about the same for the pool as well.
So now I'm torn, if I downsize the jets to the point where I lose the cavitation, the VS seems more attractive as you could taylor the pump speed,to get the jet force you desire.
Of course the replacement VS motor is 2X the cost of the two speed - I can buy a lot of jets to tinker with for a fraction of the cost difference
- May 3, 2007
- 16,832
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
The jet nozzle is deep inside the spa wall and you can't see it unless you drain the spa and look into the hole. What you are seeing is probably the exterior eyeball. A jet nozzle looks like this:
But if they were installed, you shouldn't get cavitation. What is the size of the plumbing?
Also, what is the filter pressure?
But if they were installed, you shouldn't get cavitation. What is the size of the plumbing?
Also, what is the filter pressure?
I probed around with some various size rods I had - looks like they are 7/16 ID - definaately bigger than 3/8 but smaller than 1/2. 2" pipe everywhere - filter pressure (jandy cartridge 460 sqft) is usually around 10 psi clean, will creep above 15 when dirty but not much higher ever. I guess I should pull all the eyeballs and make sure there are nozzles in all jets.
Looking at your chart it seems that 3/8" jets would be a better choice for me.
Looking at your chart it seems that 3/8" jets would be a better choice for me.
- May 3, 2007
- 16,832
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
3/8" jets provide a stronger jet for a given pump size and would probably stop the caviation. The problem is that 7/16" jets do not provide enough head loss on the return side and this is compounded by 2" plumbing which creates higher head loss on the suction side.
Thanks again for your help.
I think Ill stick with the 2HP 2 speed and purchase 6 x 3/8 jets for the tub, get a new motor seal and I'll inspect the current impeller. The VS seemed so attractive when it was installed but I prefer reliability. I'll post back with my results when I get it fixed - for now it's off to buy a bunch of bleach to keep the pool clear until I get the motor. I'll also need to get another relay for my interface box.
I think Ill stick with the 2HP 2 speed and purchase 6 x 3/8 jets for the tub, get a new motor seal and I'll inspect the current impeller. The VS seemed so attractive when it was installed but I prefer reliability. I'll post back with my results when I get it fixed - for now it's off to buy a bunch of bleach to keep the pool clear until I get the motor. I'll also need to get another relay for my interface box.
- May 3, 2007
- 16,832
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
One of the primary failures of VS pump is power line spikes/surges so if you decided on another VS, I would recommend surge protection if you don't already have it.
I agree - decided on the 2HP 2 speed pump - hopefully more reliable - I will have to change a few items - I have a jandy PDA-PS4 and in Jandy's fine judgement the aux 1 can either be high speed on a 2 speed pump or a cleaner but you can't have both! - if I move the cleaner to another aux I lose the safety features for the cleaner - I can move the high speed to another aux but I lose the hot key for high speed on the remote - think I will tie the high speed relay into the trigger power for the blower as generally I only run high speed for the hot-tub - I will have to make sure the low speed doesn't starve my cleaner booster - I may look and see if I can figure out a way to trigger high speed off either.
Currently I have:
aux 1 - pump power
Aux 2 - cleaner
Aux 3 - blower
Aux 4 - pool light
Solar trigger - remapped to spa light
Currently I have:
aux 1 - pump power
Aux 2 - cleaner
Aux 3 - blower
Aux 4 - pool light
Solar trigger - remapped to spa light
Correction, I read the manual wrong - you can use aux1 for cleaner and aux 2 for low speed, but that kills one of my light relays. No issue though, I discovered that dip switch 6 controls a hidden aux on the back the board which can be programmed to be on or off when the pool is set to spa mode - that should allow me to auto switch to high speed when spa mode selected - even better!