How bad would it be to just throw the winter cover over our pool full of green water, and deal with cleaning it up come spring time? We are new pool owners, and even though the water was crystal clear all summer, failure to maintain has allowed it to become a green swamp. We have vacuumed and scrubbed the liner as well as possible (since we can't see the bottom), and believe we have removed most of the leaves, based on the filter basket. We've already dumped about 6 gallons bleach in over the past couple days, nothing seems to be changing. Its now cold and rainy and I'm frustrated!
Consequences of not cleaning green water before winter
- Thread starter tinainky
- Start date
Please follow the SLAM instructions. You must keep your FC levels up to the level based on your CYA.
What test kit are you using? Please post your results. It probably would be easier to do this now given the temperatures are cooler, then wait until the hot sunny days come back around burning off FC from the sun.
Here are the SLAM directions: http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/125-slam-shock-level-and-maintain-shockingl
Here are the Chlorine/CYA Levels: http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/128-chlorine-cya-chart-slam-shock
Please keep us posted.
What test kit are you using? Please post your results. It probably would be easier to do this now given the temperatures are cooler, then wait until the hot sunny days come back around burning off FC from the sun.
Here are the SLAM directions: http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/125-slam-shock-level-and-maintain-shockingl
Here are the Chlorine/CYA Levels: http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/128-chlorine-cya-chart-slam-shock
Please keep us posted.
I have read the SLAM instructions over and over and over. I guess I just have a hard time understanding exactly what to do. I have the test kit recommended here, can't remember the number. I did all the tests on Sunday, I don't currently have them where I can get to them, but I do know the pH was 7.2, chlorine was zero, and evidently CYA was zero since I filled the tube all the way to the top and could still see the black dot. All the stores around me have sold out of the pool chemicals (like CYA), the only thing I can get locally is bleach. Since Sunday, we have vacuumed, scrubbed, ran pump continuously, and dumped 6 gallons of bleach in pool. Obviously that is not enough, since the water is till a lovely shade of murky green. I did test the chlorine after adding bleach, the water turned bright orange. What am I not doing correctly?
Q: What test kit are you using? There are videos that can help you with the testing if there is any confusion.
Please post all test results. In the beginning, chlorine will be consumed very quickly where there may be multiple additions daily. This will become easier during the SLAM cycle. You may need to test your water every few hours during the day. If you are using the TF-100 Kit, which I am familiar with then probability says that your CYA is around 10. Once we know what the true CYA level is then the Target FC shock level is easy to figure out. Please remember that you must keep the FC at shock level until the water starts clearing up and you pass all 3 tests in the procedures, etc. Do not deviate from any of the directions.
When assisting a friend, it took us over 30 days to clear his pool up from green to crystal clear. The pool was left unattended for over 2 years. You will succeed. Please do not give up.
Please post all test results. In the beginning, chlorine will be consumed very quickly where there may be multiple additions daily. This will become easier during the SLAM cycle. You may need to test your water every few hours during the day. If you are using the TF-100 Kit, which I am familiar with then probability says that your CYA is around 10. Once we know what the true CYA level is then the Target FC shock level is easy to figure out. Please remember that you must keep the FC at shock level until the water starts clearing up and you pass all 3 tests in the procedures, etc. Do not deviate from any of the directions.
When assisting a friend, it took us over 30 days to clear his pool up from green to crystal clear. The pool was left unattended for over 2 years. You will succeed. Please do not give up.
I have the TF-100 test kit.
It is currently pouring down rain here. If the rain lets up before dark, I'll go out tonight and do all the tests.
During the 30 day clean up, were you adding chlorine every day? How much did you use over the 30 days?
It is currently pouring down rain here. If the rain lets up before dark, I'll go out tonight and do all the tests.
During the 30 day clean up, were you adding chlorine every day? How much did you use over the 30 days?
The only down side to not cleaning the pool now is having a green stinky mess to clean in the spring! Once you are able to run the tests and post the results we can give you a better idea which path to follow.
I agree with zea.
If your view tube was full and could still see the dot fairly well, your CYA is 10 or less. That would make your shock level 10 if you can't get any CYA.
I can sense your frustrated and if your heart isn't really into clearing this up now, which your going to have to donate some time and energy into it, you could deal with it in the spring. If you choose that route I would take some time and read the SLAM process over and over to get a good grip on it. Then have a good plan of attack in the spring. The thing about the SLAM process is staying on top of it or it will have the tendency to drag out longer than you would like. You need to maintain the shock level as best you can along with backwashing the filter when needed and brushing often. If you choose to hit it hard now we can help you along. Either path we can help you out. Not a problem. ?
If your view tube was full and could still see the dot fairly well, your CYA is 10 or less. That would make your shock level 10 if you can't get any CYA.
I can sense your frustrated and if your heart isn't really into clearing this up now, which your going to have to donate some time and energy into it, you could deal with it in the spring. If you choose that route I would take some time and read the SLAM process over and over to get a good grip on it. Then have a good plan of attack in the spring. The thing about the SLAM process is staying on top of it or it will have the tendency to drag out longer than you would like. You need to maintain the shock level as best you can along with backwashing the filter when needed and brushing often. If you choose to hit it hard now we can help you along. Either path we can help you out. Not a problem. ?
This question can not be answered. The amount of chlorine added daily was all based on testing daily. In the beginning it was a lot more then towards the end. The green went to milky white within 7 days or so. It probably took another 10 days before it was cloudy and then a few more weeks until it was 100% clean and all 3 tests were passed. This was not my pool so my friends may have lost some days in between (hard to tell). They would come to me with water for sampling and sometimes even with test results from other sources. It was a slow process for them. The pool was in bad shape. Every pool will be slightly different. Keep posting test results and everyone will help you.
I will not allow my pool to get to that point. Luckily I found TFP early on in my pool, which is my first season. Keep us posted !
I have found that what you spend to clean it up in the fall, will be double in the spring or close to it if left alone. That green swamp is only going to get worse. I wont close a green pool, if clients don't want to do it now, then I suggest the name of another company who will gladly close a frog pond.
Here are today's numbers
FC 33.5
CC 1.5
TC 35
CH 300
TA 130
CYA 30
pH 7.5
the chlorine test is still bright orange
Thanks for the help.
FC 33.5
CC 1.5
TC 35
CH 300
TA 130
CYA 30
pH 7.5
the chlorine test is still bright orange
Thanks for the help.
Your shock level for a CYA of 30 is 12. You can let that FC drift down for a while. Also your PH test is invalid, will read a false high with FC levels of 10 or more.
Have you decided to do this now or wait ? If it's not too bad and you've got the time it shouldn't take too long. ?
Have you decided to do this now or wait ? If it's not too bad and you've got the time it shouldn't take too long. ?
What exactly does shock level of 12 mean? How do I know how much chlorine to add? Do I enter my number in Pool Math to see how much? What tests do I keep doing (and how often) to keep chlorine at correct level? I've read so much stuff, and I still don't understand!!
We'd like to get this cleaned up now. The pool is a lighter shade of green today, so "maybe" its working???
We'd like to get this cleaned up now. The pool is a lighter shade of green today, so "maybe" its working???
The shock level is the killing zone for algae. Yours is 12 per the CYA/ FC chart. You'll use pool Pool Math to figure out how much bleach to add when it drops below 12. You want to maintain 12 -14 as long as you can by testing every hour in the beginning. Then after the chlorine consumption slows down you can test FC every 2-3 hours and so on. You only need to test FC now. When water clears up then test CC.
Here is the SLAM Process. Read it again. It needs to be followed to the T. Play around with pool math to get used to using it. Make sure to enter your pool water volume. ?
Here is the SLAM Process. Read it again. It needs to be followed to the T. Play around with pool math to get used to using it. Make sure to enter your pool water volume. ?
Make sure to add some sink and sweep type of filtering aid. There could be alot of suspended dead algae gunk in your water making it appear worse than it is.
TFP does not recommend a "sink and sweep" product (I assume flocculant). It typically is not needed if you follow the SLAM process correctly.
When you say the chlorine test is bright orange, you do not even need to run that test (the one with the ph indicator). It goes up to 10. Your FC on the drop test is so far above that, so just use that number and forget the color change test.
I now others will have better advice- why would her CC still be high?
The CC's are still high because of the organics in the water.
My question is you stated your CYA was at zero in the beginning with the view tube full and could still see the dot.
Your last test results reported a CYA level of 30. Have you added anything to raise that level or was it testing error ?
My question is you stated your CYA was at zero in the beginning with the view tube full and could still see the dot.
Your last test results reported a CYA level of 30. Have you added anything to raise that level or was it testing error ?
Trust me, you want to close clean, so keep at it. Here's why. I bough a foreclosure that overwintered with algae and it converted the cya to ammonia, making it ridiculously difficult to recover. The stench of sulphur and frog population was unbelievable. There are still tannin stains on the vinyl in one corner despite the seasons of chlorine and sun. Etc. you really will not regret the energy you spend now, and it will be cheaper and faster to recover now.
So, all you really need to know is this: you are in a "race" against algae. It can speed ahead and grow every time you allow the chlorine level to drop BELOW the recommended shock/slam level for your cya.
So if pool calculator tells you your shock level is 12, and you're going to be away for a few hours, dose the chlorine up a bit, eg. To 16, and see how long it takes to get back to say, 11. Normally, the time between dosing expands. Any time the FC drops below your shock value, bring it back up right away. SLAM means shock and MAINTAIN...and you're only "maintaining" in fact when you're at or slightly above shock value.
So any time you drop below the shock value, you're letting the algae grow faster than you're killing it. You will be able to tell that most of the algae is dead when your ccs are .5 or less and you're not losing more than 1 ppm overnight (eg when there's no sun to consume the chlorine.) You will also notice the color changing...from green to turquoise to blue...and over time, the dead, whitish, milky tone of dead algae will be filtered out and your water will start to look "clear."
The clearing part can take several days depending on your filter type. Eg. Sand is slower than DE.
Hope that helps and hope that once you're done you never have to "slam" against green again
You will go into next season properly armed and ready to enjoy your new, trouble-free pool cheers to that!
So, all you really need to know is this: you are in a "race" against algae. It can speed ahead and grow every time you allow the chlorine level to drop BELOW the recommended shock/slam level for your cya.
So if pool calculator tells you your shock level is 12, and you're going to be away for a few hours, dose the chlorine up a bit, eg. To 16, and see how long it takes to get back to say, 11. Normally, the time between dosing expands. Any time the FC drops below your shock value, bring it back up right away. SLAM means shock and MAINTAIN...and you're only "maintaining" in fact when you're at or slightly above shock value.
So any time you drop below the shock value, you're letting the algae grow faster than you're killing it. You will be able to tell that most of the algae is dead when your ccs are .5 or less and you're not losing more than 1 ppm overnight (eg when there's no sun to consume the chlorine.) You will also notice the color changing...from green to turquoise to blue...and over time, the dead, whitish, milky tone of dead algae will be filtered out and your water will start to look "clear."
The clearing part can take several days depending on your filter type. Eg. Sand is slower than DE.
Hope that helps and hope that once you're done you never have to "slam" against green again
You will go into next season properly armed and ready to enjoy your new, trouble-free pool cheers to that!
You can do this.
It will SO much better to get it clear BEFORE you close it. If you wait you will have to spend more money and time to get it clear AND you will not be able to use your pool when the weather is nice.
Take it a step at a time. You are way ahead in that you have a good test kit! Good job!
You will need to add bleach often at first as it works on the green monster. Once you start beating it you will notice that your FC goes down slower.
No one pool is the same. Some take a long time and LOTS of bleach, some take a shorter time and less bleach.
The harder you hit it at the beginning the faster it will be.
If you can test every other hour and add bleach this weekend you will be on the upside.
Try to test at least 4 times a day-morning, when you come home, after dinner, before you go to bed.
Good luck!
Kim
It will SO much better to get it clear BEFORE you close it. If you wait you will have to spend more money and time to get it clear AND you will not be able to use your pool when the weather is nice.
Take it a step at a time. You are way ahead in that you have a good test kit! Good job!
You will need to add bleach often at first as it works on the green monster. Once you start beating it you will notice that your FC goes down slower.
No one pool is the same. Some take a long time and LOTS of bleach, some take a shorter time and less bleach.
The harder you hit it at the beginning the faster it will be.
If you can test every other hour and add bleach this weekend you will be on the upside.
Try to test at least 4 times a day-morning, when you come home, after dinner, before you go to bed.
Good luck!
Kim
After testing CYA the first time, we threw in some granular chlorine stuff we had, which had CYA in it. Also, please bear in mind that, being new pool owners, test results may not be 100% correct.
The water color keeps getting lighter and lighter, its now a light gray, still murky. But the thing I don't understand now, is that the FC level is still in the low 30's even though we have not added any more chlorine. It has been overcast most of the time, don't know if that has anything to do with it.
Also, the water has a very strong chlorine smell. When I scoop it up to test it, it is very clear, just smells like chlorine.