New owner: First testing results and some questions

[Sansfear]

I had to go out of town for a week, so I put the floater back in. I came back and my test kit had arrived and here is what I found:

pH - ~8.0 (I did this twice to confirm, it was nearly as pink as the 8.2 window)
FC - 18
CC - .5
TC - 18.5
CH - 425
TA - 150
CYA - 160 (using diluted method)


Pool was exceptionally dirty and I brushed it before doing these tests. Not sure if would effect, but wanted to mention.

On my filter, the pressure gauge apparently does not work (stays at 20PSI when pump turned off). The OEM replacement is $27 on Amazon. Will any 0-60PSI gauge from Home Depot or similar be sufficient? Leslie's Pool has a one for $11, but not well-reviewed. Also, how do I release the pressure before changing the gauge? In the videos I watched there was a push-button to release pressure which this unit does not have.

On my pool pump timer(Intermatic 104R), the clock gears turn, but the clock face does not. Should I simply put in a new clock unit ($54 at Home Depot) or is it possible to clean out the gear assembly to get it moving again?

Also, the pool pump runs very hot (casing is 140-145 degrees). Is that normal? Or is that something that I should have looked at?


My current plans are to get the pool pump timer working and the pressure gauge replaced then backflush the system so I have a baseline pressure reading. Will wait for expert advice on what do with my test results.

Edit: Changed TA from 15 to 150
Edit: Updated CYA numbers after doing diluted test

 

[jblizzle]

First, remember that you can not test the pH when the FC > 10ppm as the test will read a false high.
Second, do the CYA tests following the diluted method as described here: http://www.troublefreepool.com/thre...Kit-Directions?p=203524&viewfull=1#post203524
Get a better idea of the CYA level and then you really need to replace at least 50% of the water.

You sure about that TA? That is very low and I would think the pH would also be pretty low as well. (not that you can test it right now).

I recommend the glycerin filled gauges like tftestkits.net sells ... bigger, easier to read only go from 0-30psi which should be all you need.
As soon as you turn off the pump there is no more pressure. There should be an air vent on the top of the filter you can open (unless you have a top mounted multi-valve).

Not sure about the timer ...

The motors get hot, but you should be able to put your hand on them without burning yourself. Is it sitting in the sun? Is there good air flow?

 

[Sansfear]

First, remember that you can not test the pH when the FC > 10ppm as the test will read a false high.
Second, do the CYA tests following the diluted method as described here: http://www.troublefreepool.com/thre...Kit-Directions?p=203524&viewfull=1#post203524
Get a better idea of the CYA level and then you really need to replace at least 50% of the water.

You sure about that TA? That is very low and I would think the pH would also be pretty low as well. (not that you can test it right now).

I recommend the glycerin filled gauges like tftestkits.net sells ... bigger, easier to read only go from 0-30psi which should be all you need.
As soon as you turn off the pump there is no more pressure. There should be an air vent on the top of the filter you can open (unless you have a top mounted multi-valve).

Not sure about the timer ...

The motors get hot, but you should be able to put your hand on them without burning yourself. Is it sitting in the sun? Is there good air flow?

Thanks for the response. I fixed the TA, it was 150, not 15.

The pump gets almost no sun at all (North side of house) and has good air flow. It has been running nearly 24/7 for a long time, however, since I didn't know the timer was broken until recently. You will definitely burn yourself if you put your hand on it for long.

I do have a top-mounted multi-valve. The gauge screws directly into the side of the valve.

 

[jblizzle]

So you do not have an air vent on the filter ... no need for it. Just turn off the pump and unscrew the gauge when you are ready.

Certainly no need for the pump to run 24/7 (see Determine Pump Run Time). How old is the motor? Could be that the bearing or winding are going bad and thus the higher case temperature. Consider switching to a 2-speed motor if/when you need to replace it.

 

[Sansfear]

I redid the CYA test and came up with 160 so guess I'll be needing to replace most of the water.

Am wondering if I should simply not worry about it for now and drain/refill over the winter. I'm in Arizona, so I still have plenty of time left to enjoy it.

 

[jblizzle]

The sooner you get the CYA under control the better.
According to PoolMath, with a CYA of 160ppm, you MUST keep the FC above 12ppm at all times to ensure prevention of algae and safe water. So you likely need to target 15ppm or so each day. Remember that when FC > 10ppm you can not test the pH. If you leave the pH too high with high CH levels, you will then be headed toward calcium scaling.

 

[Sansfear]

Had another novice question; not sure if I should start a new thread or continue this one.

The autofill system does not work (previous owner was using hose to fill periodically).

There is a leaking valve by the hose bib that I believe goes to the autofill system (goes down into concrete about 10 feet from autofill float) that had been shut off so no water was able to get to the autofill valve. The name on the valve says 'Lawn Genie' however (which made me wonder if this may actually be a part of the sprinkler system).



I found a nearly identical part at Home Depot (http://www.homedepot.com/p/Lawn-Genie-150-psi-Anti-Siphon-Valve-with-Flow-Control-L7034/100062989), which I believe should be the correct replacement but would like to confirm as well as get some tips on replacing it without breaking the PVC pipe. The entire setup is very brittle.

 

[jblizzle]

That is an anti-siphon valve which is needed to prevent the pool water back flowing into your freshwater supply. It also has a valve to shutoff the flow to the auto-fill.
I think there are better ones that are all brass.