So I just cut this off? =D

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Aleforge

Aleforge

0
May 31, 2014
296
Wentzville, MO
I got my replacement pump Friday and need to get the swap completed. I watched some videos and scanned through the threads here. I figured I would be able to just cut the pipe and join the new piece with the old piece with a coupler. Looks like I do not have a enough room, so should I just cut through it, unscrew it from filter and find a new elbow? Will that be a part at lowes or home depot? It looks like the elbow comes out of the pump then reduces?

http://i.imgur.com/p5NxTOm.jpg


Thanks for the help, I just wanted to make this as easy as possible on me.
 
Replacing that pump will take a little extra effort. It is simple enough to cut the pipe a bit above the pump, allowing you to remove the existing pump. But properly attaching a new pump will be a little tricker. The only visible place to attach the new pump output is by using a larger pipe (probably 2-1/2") to connect over the outside of the three way valve. However that leaves you very little room to fit in the correct pipe reducer and elbow, making that approach either quite difficult or requiring additional plumbing work to match shifts in location of both the input and output pipes.

The other, more expensive, option is to replace the three way valve as well, replacing everything up to the union. This is a far simpler plumbing job, but adds the cost of a new three way valve to the project.

In either case, you also need to find an exact match for the union, or else replace the union(s) as well.

Places like Home Depot and Lowes generally have the parts you need, though they don't always have exactly what you need actually in stock. Good quality three way valves often need to be ordered through the Internet, or purchased from a pool store. Other less common parts can also be ordered through the Internet or found at a may of the better plumbing supply shops.
 
Hi Jason,

Thanks for responding!

I went out and cut the pipe at just above the pump. Then took off the coupling on the front. And detached the wires. One surprise I got, the wires are completely dry rotted and insulation just crumbles off. (hooray) I am sitting here looking at it now trying to figure out how to run the plumping. The inflow pipe won't connect either and the flange has to be cut off. I am guessing though that just some unions and maybe a small extension to the connector that came with the pump will make that side hookup.

Anyhow would something like this work for the valve?

Jandy 2 to 2-1/2-Inch Positive Seal NeverLube Valve
by Jandy
http://amzn.com/B001I7HZ20

And could you or anyone suggest how they would route the pumping? Is it just the same way only taller?

Thanks guys, its helping the stress.
 
If the pump inlet is a different height, then you need to cut the intake pipe further back (away from the pump) and put in two 45 degree fittings with just the right amount of pipe to get the height change you are looking for. Depending on how things turn out, you may need to rotate the 45s to adjust the height, keeping in mind that that will also move the pump sideways. Depending on what you have off the edge of the photo, there might be a few other options, but that is normally the most straightforward.

If you currently have 2" pipe, then that valve is perfect. If you have 1 1/2" pipe you either want to get the smaller version of the valve, or switch your pipe to 2".
 
Hey Jason, thanks again for the help!

Finally have to time this week to get the new pump hooked up and going to buy all the fittings / pipe. The one thing I am not sure about is the screw on areas that come apart and allow rotation. Are they simply named "2-in dia PVC Sch 80 Union" I found them at lowes and just wanted to make sure? I noticed on mine it has one on the inlet, and only one on the right side (between filter and valve). Should I only worry about having a union on that side?

Oh and one other thing. If I have all 2" dia PVC piping. Do I pick up a 2" valve? I was wondering if it would slip inside even though they both say 2". I am going to get a new valve and the weird elbow on the left side doesn't look like I can connect into it anyways.

Thank you!
 
Top quality valves tend to work with two different sizes of pipe, with one size fitting inside, and the other size fitting outside the connection provided on the valve. The three way valve in your picture is one of these good valves that takes two sizes of pipe. Assuming you are getting something similar, both the 1 1/2" - 2" version of the valve and the 2" - 2 1/2" version of the valve will work with 2" pipe.

If you want to try to reuse the valve you have, it looks like it will still work with 2 1/2" pipe going over the outside after you cut off the existing pipe.
 
Ah OK I get what you mean so if all my pipe is 2" then I just need a coupling that fits 2" on one side and 2 1/2" on the other in order to slip over the valve?

Thank you so much, that will save a bit of money!

EDIT: I am having a really hard time finding a 2" to 2" 1/2" reducer coupling. I am guessing that not a common size?
 
Awesome, thank you N240!

EDIT: I am guessing 2 1/2 inch PVC anything (coupling, reducer) is a very odd size. I can not find anywhere local that sells either in 2 1/2". Do you guys have a trusted online source? I have only found a few industrial sites and they have very high shipping costs.

Thanks and sorry for being a pain!
 

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Just be sure when you pick up pipe and fittings that they are specifically Schedule 40 PVC. They should have "SCH 40" stamped on them somewhere. Schedule 40 is rated for pressure which is required for pool systems under pressure. Schedule 80 will work as well but is usually more expensive and rated for higher pressure. Fittings with DWV on them (drain, waste, vent) are not rated for pressure and have a foam core rather than a solid wall like SCH 40 or 80.
 
It's like a 2X4 or a "60" class tv.

Not all DVW pipe is foam core. Most pipe except for 2 1/2" pipe is rated for DVW use. So SCH 40,80 pvc is usually DVW rated. Foam core pipe is still sch40 ( wall thickness) pipe, but it must say "not for pressure" on it.
 

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