Jandy Aqualink RS tripping circuit breaker

[bsnelson]

My system has a breaker for the pump and another one for everything else - the breaker that's tripping is the "everything else" one. This just started happening yesterday, curiously during the time that a company was staining my fence, and they had to move some things around (e.g. pool chemical storage box) near the power center. I know what time it started happening within a 15 minute window, because I have a homemade logging/control component in my system (I've had it for years, it's definitely not the problem, before someone asks ).

I'm trying to think of what could cause this, and the only thing that even makes any sense to me is the transformer going bad, but it seems really coincidental that it would happen at that time. I know that breakers themselves can go bad, but that's rare. The outside wiring is all up to code and uses heavy conduits, and there are no visible breaches, so I don't think it's that. It will run for anywhere between a minute and 10-15 minutes when I reset the breaker, but then it trips again. All panels and lights look normal while it's running, and there are no abnormal sights, smells or sounds near the power center (even with the inside panel cover off) while it's running.

Any ideas?

Brad

 

[n240sxguy]

Is the breaker that's tripping getting hot?

 

[gwegan]

Some thoughts:

How old is this stuff? very likely a loose wire causing a thermal fault and a breaker trip.


Assuming its less than 20 years old:

1. Turn off the power to the subpanel at the main panel.

2. Tighten all the screws in the subpanel.

3. See if that solves the problem.

4. Not solved?

5. What is on the circuit besides the lights and the 6-20 outlet? The 6-20 is the convenience outlet more than 6 but less than 20 feet from the pool, usually installed by the pool electrician. (I'm making assumptions here, the 6-20 may be on another circuit or the lights could be too!!!) If you have pool automation that may run off this circuit also.

6. Look at an tighten the screws and wire nuts in the 6-20 outlet (if its on the circuit) and the outlet for the lights (probably a GFCI next to or near the subpanel). Work now?

7. If you have pool automation turn off both breakers at the subpanel and tighten all the screw connections in the pool automation and the wire nuts too. Work now?

8. If you have a SWG, spa blowers or other auto systems that are un-swiched check those connections also. Work now?

9. Replace any outlets or switches on the circuit with stab type rear connectors. Work now?

10. Replace the breaker. Work now?

11. If you know what you are doing you could start isolating parts of the circuit and see what part of the circuit is tripping the breaker. DO NOT DO THIS UNLESS YOU ARE FAMILIAR WITH ELECTRICAL CIRCUITS AND KNOW HOW THEY GO TOGETHER.

12. Problem is probably in wire itself time to call an electrician.

Sorry its a long list

Your fence guys could have used your 6-20 outlet and jostled something in it and you have a loose wire that is causing resistance generating heat and tripping the breaker. Or backed into the pool automation.

I doubt its in the light jbox because that after a switch and so is not energized unless the pool lights are on. But the switch could be problematic.

If you have extended the circuit you may have more on there you need to look at.

 

[boston62]

This might not help, but my heat pump kept tripping the breaker, it was junction box where the wiring ran through the conduit, the gasket was bad and the box and conduit was filled with water, shorting it out. I installed a new cover & gasket. Works now

 

[Pool Clown]

Typically, your automation will be on a breaker that independent of all the other components such as the motors or other loads, but this is not always a guarantee.
Are you saying that the breaker that is tripping is labeled "everything else" meaning that there is your controller connected to this breaker in addition to other components? If so, i would (and if you are not comfortable doing this, stop.), disconnect "everything else" leaving only the aqualink connected and see if that holds the breaker. Then begin to add the components that were disconnected, one at a time, until the problem re occurs. I'm assuming that nothing has been added to this breakers' load recently. If something has been added, even if it's only an outlet that is not always used, perhaps the breaker is just simply overloaded, and the load needs to be re-assessed.