Part way thru slamming water still cloudy but CC is 0

[babsh]

I'm part way thru slamming my pool - it was cloudy because of too much CYA from what I can figure.
The CYA was at 180 and I've gotten it down to70- I know that's high but I couldn't drain the pool any more for fear of drying out the new Gunite.
So I started with a CYA of 70 and reading the CYA chart I need FC of 28. My FC yesterday started at 32 then 30 and now tests at 28 ( where it should be according to the chart)I've been able to keep it there. My concern is when I test for cc it always stays the same color. I use the FAS/DPD chlorine drop test. I thought the cc was the "dirty chlorine". If the FC is dropping then why is there no cc registering?
I know my pool water level has dropped-could a leak in the plumbing be to blame for the dropping of FC?
Also, the water is still cloudy- I've been brushing and sweeping like I'm supposed to- but the pool color hasn't changed to clear either.
Should I just keep the chlorine at 28 until the water clears up?

Maybe it is the filter after all?

 

[pwrstrk]

First if you have a leak that won't affect your FC level.
To stop the SLAM process you need to pass all three criteria to stop.
1. Water is crystal clear. Failed.
2. You have CC of 0.5 or less. Passed.
3. Pass the OCLT Test. Don't know yet from what you have posted.
So you have passed 1 out of 3 criteria.
You can still have zero CC and have something consuming chlorine. Try the OCLT and see what you get. For help in clearing the water up you take a look at this article Adding DE To A Sand Filter ?

 

[babsh]

OK I'll try the test tonight. I did not realize you could hve a zero cc and still have something consuming chlorine.
If I add the DE to the sand filter will that cause any issue with back washing? My filter is VERY old and all I can do it backwash water. I tried to attaché a picture but not sure if it went thru. It has the old push pull so basically its either open or shut- nothing in between. I cant vacuum straight to waste- It all has to run thru the filter , then I back wash.

 

[pwrstrk]

The DE shouldn't affect your backwashing. It'll get backwashed out the next time you do it.
I've never seen a sand filter like that. Good pic ! ?

 

[babsh]

Yes its a dinosaur- the book that we found in the pump house had women with bee hive hair do's lounging on rafts!!
My concern is how much DE to add, I don't have any way to read the pressure on the filter.
How often should I add it?

 

[pwrstrk]

I'm not quite sure how to advise you on how much to add without a pressure gauge. 1 cup maybe ??
How do you know when to backwash ?
Let's see if somebody else comes along with some insight. ?

 

[babsh]

In the past I backwash when I think I've vacuumed up "a lot" of dead algae-maybe a few teims in the summer?- a lot more receintly as I've been trying to get this algea under control.
OK I'll check back- thanks for your help. I think a new filter would help a lot- just not in the budget right now.

 

[pwrstrk]

You wouldn't have to add the DE. It just helps sometimes in clearing it up faster. Not everybody does it. A sand filter will do it on its own. Would be your choice. ?

 

[jblizzle]

You should really add a pressure gauge. Looks like it would be pretty easy to remove that PVC plug and put a fitting in it that is tapped for a gauge to screw into. Or maybe at whatever that thing is on the front at the top.

Or actually it could go anywhere between the pump and filter as well.

 

[babsh]

Thanks... any idea where I can get a fitting that is tapped for a gauge? Would it just be a "basic" pressure gage like they sell on the TF test kits site?
What should the pressure reach before I back wash?

 

[tim5055]

Thanks... any idea where I can get a fitting that is tapped for a gauge? Would it just be a "basic" pressure gage like they sell on the TF test kits site?
What should the pressure reach before I back wash?

Yup, get a gauge from tftestkits.net then you can put together fittings from your favorite big box store to make it work with your filter.

Once it's installed do a good back wash then restart the filter. Note the pressure as this is your "clean" pressure. Backwash when pressure rises 20 - 25% above clean pressure.

If you decide to add DE, add slowly watching th gauge. Stop when the pressure rises 1 - 2 psi.

 

[jvrobert]

I know they are frowned upon in general and should not be randomly used to clear a cloudy pool, but I had success with a clarifier.

I had a bloom I killed off with a shock and all my numbers looked perfect but I couldn't get my cloudy water cleared in a few days, so I tried some basic Wal-Mart clarifier. The next morning the pool was completely cleared.

 

[jblizzle]

.... or it could do nothing .... or it could make the problems worse .... and thus be a waste of money.

A properly functioning filter should be able to clear up a pool.

 

[duraleigh]

jblizzle is correct. The reports over the years have too many failures for TFP to suggest them. They certainly seem to work sometimes but far more often they fail or make things worse.