My Polaris PB4 booster pump for my Polaris 280 may be bad. It randomly makes a loud buzzing noise and doesn't pump water. I called Polaris and right away, she said it sounded like the motor is bad. I'm going to remove the cover and see if I can move the impeller. The motor has a separate part number, so I'm thinking about replacing it myself. Is it difficult? I've seen the exploded diagram and the only part which I'm not sure about is removing and installing the cup and seal. I've seen a seal replacement procedure online and it doesn't seem too difficult.
Polaris Booster Pump Motor Replacement
- Thread starter bignick
- Start date
It's been a while since I've done one, but pretty much all motor replacements are that same. You have to separate the housing so that you can access the impeller and the housing plate, then lock the shaft and unscrew the impeller. This will allow you to take the back of the housing off the motor and switch the motor out. Be sure to get a new shaft seal assembly (9 times out of 10 - they will fail if a new one isn't installed!!) 
If you run into any difficulty swapping out the motor, we'll be here to help
Welcome to TFP!!!
If you run into any difficulty swapping out the motor, we'll be here to help
Welcome to TFP!!!
Thanks for the reply and the welcome.
I took the volute cover off and was able to spin the motor smoothly via the impeller. So that rules out anything jamming it or a bad bearing.
My engineer friend and I are guessing that there isn't enough current for the motor to start, so it's just going back and forth between two windings (hence the noise). This causes the protection circuit to kick in and when it cools off, it starts buzzing again. Could be a bad capacitor (?)
Regardless, I'll probably replace the motor (or pump) and see if I can fix this motor and use it as a spare.
I'll be back when if I run into problems changing the motor out.
I took the volute cover off and was able to spin the motor smoothly via the impeller. So that rules out anything jamming it or a bad bearing.
My engineer friend and I are guessing that there isn't enough current for the motor to start, so it's just going back and forth between two windings (hence the noise). This causes the protection circuit to kick in and when it cools off, it starts buzzing again. Could be a bad capacitor (?)
Regardless, I'll probably replace the motor (or pump) and see if I can fix this motor and use it as a spare.
I'll be back when if I run into problems changing the motor out.
Sounds like replacing the starting cap for $10 or so would get it up and running again. 
Okay, it's not the starting capacitor. I took it to a motor shop and the guy tested it for me. Then he started to rattle off some other things it could be like an internal switch, bad stator, etc. If I bring it in, he could test it for me. Then I got to thinking...is there much that can be replaced/repaired that's cheaper than a new pump? If I bring it in and he tells me it's bad, that's two more days without a cleaner in operation.
I'm pretty sure that replacing a single bad part would be less expensive than a new motor. However, I have seen a number of times a fixed motor failing within a month - If they offer a 90 day warranty on the fix, I'd say to let them fix it, if not - just get the new motor!
That is the best advice I can give you from my years of experience
I surely hope that you can resolve this in the most economical/ lasting way!!
BTW - I'll be gone Wed - Tues on vacation (so if you try to ask a question and I don't respond, that's why )
- If they offer a 90 day warranty on the fix, I'd say to let them fix it, if not - just get the new motor! That is the best advice I can give you from my years of experience
I surely hope that you can resolve this in the most economical/ lasting way!!
BTW - I'll be gone Wed - Tues on vacation (so if you try to ask a question and I don't respond, that's why
)