Pump wont turn on, I'm panicking!

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Does/did the pump feel hot when it was switched on? How old is the pump?

Is the pump on a timer? If so, is the timer working or can you check the voltage output at the timer?

Is there a GFCI outlet on the same circuit? It could be just that a GFCI outlet on the same circuit was tripped. Reset that outlet and it may solve your problem. If the GFCI trips again or will not reset, there is a short in the circuit.

EDIT: Did you flip the breaker off, then back on? Sometimes a breaker that's tripped won't visually appear to be tripped and turning off, then on assures that it is reset.

If it's none of those and it's not very old, I'd disconnect the pump and find an electrician or machine shop in the area and have them evaluate it. It's likely just the motor end of the pump. Can have the dry end (motor) of the pump replaced and only pay for that. Replace the seal between the two while you're at it.
 
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I didn't feel it and can't turn it on to check. It's been working fine since I bought the house a few years ago. Assuming it's the original pump when the pool was put in, its got to be around 5 or 7 years old, which to me doesn't feel that old for a pool pump.

Yes it's on a timer. I'll have to get a voltage meter to check. Is there a way to turn on the pump without the timer to see if that's where the problem is?

I think there is a GFCI on the circuit, but need to go home to double check. I may take some pics and post on here to help.

I'm really hoping I don't need a new pump, I don't feeling like shelling out $3K for a new one.

I'll reply back when I get home on what I see. Thanks so much!
 
The reason I asked if it was hot was not to see if it was hot while audibly running, it was to see if the motor was siezed. That is, still getting current but not actually turning. If it were seized there may be quiet humming and the motor housing would get hot.

Your timer should have a manual on/off switch. Did you turn that on? Otherwise, you can rewire to bypass the timer, but if you're not comfortable/experienced with that, best not to do it.

GFCI outlet tripping on the same circuit has cost me a $90, 3 minute electrician visit one time. That was enough for me to always check potential outlets on the same circuit.

A 5-7 year old pump is borderline for whether or not to replace the whole pump or just the "dry" end. Being in Southern CA, it probably has run a lot in that time. Replacing the motor only will likely fix the problem, but then you have a 5-7 year old wet end. That's a judgment call whether it's motor only or whole pump if indeed that is the problem.
 
Thanks for all the tips. I went back home and took a look.

It's exactly what you said you when you said:

JVTrain said:
EDIT: Did you flip the breaker off, then back on? Sometimes a breaker that's tripped won't visually appear to be tripped and turning off, then on assures that it is reset.
Click to expand...

After I flipped the breaker back completely and turned it on, there was a loud, out-of-the-ordinary hum that went on for about 5 or 6 seconds then the breaker would trip again. The filter never got going during the hum.

What do you think? Sounds like you touched on that above, but I couldn't follow. Apologies, first time pool owner trying to understand.

Thanks!
 
The capacitor is used to get the motor spinning. If the capacitor is bad, the motor won't start up.

I did jump ahead of myself a little bit. The first thing you need to do is make sure the motor shaft spins freely if you try to spin it by hand (this rules out blockage or binding). Can you post a couple of clear pictures of the motor side of the pump (the "other side" from the perspective of your picture above)?
 
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Same thing happen to my pump motor. I called a pool service repair shop. They sent out a technician who diagnosed my problem right away "You need a new motor sir". I told him that I had removed the capacitor guard and found a burned lizard laying across the capacitor terminals. He was quite sure that the lizard did not cause the damage. And again he said that I needed a new motor. I thought about it for a couple of minutes and then said, well lets try replacing the capacitor and if that doesn't work then we can replace the motor. He removed the capacitor and said he didn't think he had a replacement of the same size. He showed me what he had and I decided to try the closest one he had (35 in place of 40). It worked! Later I bought one of the correct size and replaced it. That was a good pool repair experience........................I wish I could say as much about my current pool delima..........as soon as I figure out how to start a new thread I will introduce it.
 
Thanks guys. Just so I'm understanding here, I need to remove the part in the back (the motor housing, with the "Hayward" label), from the plastic unit. And make sure my breakers are flipped off before I do it. I'll take a look and see if anything is in there clogging it up. If I can rotate it by hand, it's free, and it's the capacitor (or some other mechanical or electrical issue). If it's clogged, ideally I clean it out, replace, and it kicks back on?

I'm handy around the house and comfortable with tools and DIY home improvement, but the whole pool side is new to me so I want to make sure I understand it all correctly. If there is anyone that can expand (if needed) on what I wrote above, like a "Motor/Capacitor check for dummies", it'd be great (again, if needed). If what I wrote above is on point, or if you have any other takes or other things to consider, please let me know.

I'll open it up tomorrow morning. Any additional tips today would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for all the help guys!
 
anyway while you are repairing your pump you need to still keep adding your bleach etc
you will need to mix by hand though, a good pool brushing will help mix
as long as you keep on top of your chemicals you should not experience any further problems
might even be worth bumping your FC a little higher than usual
 
What kind of pool vacuum do you have? If it is one of those robotic ones which do not require the pump to be running, you can run the vacuum more to keep the chemicals mixed while the pump is being fixed. That with regular brushing should keep you away from the green monster.
 

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