Just had to post this. I have a new SwimPure Plus 15 that we installed in July of this year. It replaced an Aquarite, which lasted 9 seasons. I couldn't have asked for a better product, never had to fix anything and only last year cell started to fail. My salt was a little high so I emptied some water before starting the new SP Plus. Salt was around 3600- 3800 but unit kept on running so I didn't worry. I have since gotten it down to 3300 so its right on target now. My small problem is I have to run this unit at 60 % for 12 hrs and it barely keeps up at 10 FC. The Aquarite, when it was new I had to keep on 20% or shut it off, it produced so much chlorine. I called Hayward to ask how long the run was and why I had to keep a new unit on a high setting like this. The lady stated the SP Plus runs on a 3 hr. cycle. I didn't know this. So at 60 % my unit is running 108 minutes every 3 hrs. I think the old unit ran on a 90 min cycle. She also stated, and this is the hard part for me to get my head around, that nitrites and phosphates in the water would eat up the chlorine so I should test for that. I told her I thought this was bunk but she didn't take too kindly to that and informed me if they sent someone out from a pool repair store and my water chemistry showed high phosphates or any other water chemistry problem they wouldn't cover any problems. I just hung up, I cant believe this is true. Can someone chime in and tell me why a manufacturer of these salt generators would be passing along this wrong info to people. I told her I had my own test kit and with the help of this site ( which I didn't name) I knew my water was fine and I left it at that. This is a sad situation to me because other people that don't know any better are taking this info and running to the pooll store to get their water tested and we know how reliable this is. I don't know if I should take this up further with someone higher up or leave it alone as I am not a chemist so I just go by the info on here. I always thought phosphates were a load of bunk. Please advise. My water chemistry is FC 10, CC 0, TC 10, PH 7.5, TA 80, CYA 70, CH 150, Salt 3300. Thanks
Hayward Instructions for Higher Chlorine Output
- Thread starter poolgrll
- Start date
As you know nitrates and phosphates don't eat chlorine, but algae does. Kill the algae and you don't need to worry about nitrates/phosphates.
Sounds like they drank the cool-aid and that representative is misinformed. That's not unusual. There lots of bad info out there concerning pools.
Maybe they've updated the software how it runs. It looks like both units are rated the same (24 hour daily ouput). If you able to run it at 100% and decrease your pump run time.
Sounds like they drank the cool-aid and that representative is misinformed. That's not unusual. There lots of bad info out there concerning pools.
Maybe they've updated the software how it runs. It looks like both units are rated the same (24 hour daily ouput). If you able to run it at 100% and decrease your pump run time.
Your water numbers look good, but not sure why you have to run it at 60%, and especially for a 12 hour pump run. I have the Aquarite, about 6 years old, and I'm running a 10 hour pump run time, generator at 30%, FC at 8 (I'm running FC a bit high because we've had a lot of tree stuff getting in the pool, and CYA is 70). Anyway, I think these manufacturers need to go to pool school. On the door of my panel, it recommends FC at 1 to 3, with CYA at 80.
You could try calling back and ask to speak to a supervisor and see what they say.
You could try calling back and ask to speak to a supervisor and see what they say.
That is why I called. I feel I shouldn't have to run it at 60 %. I think maybe these new cells aren't built like they were years back. It wouldn't surprise me a bit if they are using inferior products. Its almost the end of the season for us here in Va. but will keep an eye on it next year. My water is crystal clear so no algae. If I have to run it at 60 % I feel the cell won't last that long. thats probably what they want, get 3 yrs out of it per the warranty and have to buy a new one. They sent me the SP Plus. I ordered the Aquarite but it did state that they could send you either unit and naturally I got the SP. Nothing I can do right now as it is producing chlorine, just seems to me it should be producing a lot more in 108 min. of runtime every 3 hrs. I'm getting ready to test later on and I'll see what my numbers look like now and if it isn't higher than 10 I might call back. I haven't checked level for a few weeks now, I don't really have to as my water is perfect.
I have found that water temp and sunlight make a difference in chlorine levels. We use a solar cover and have full sun, and I have to turn my system down when we have several days of clouds, or up when we have a hot spell. I also recently had a talk with our pool store about having to increase my system to get the chlorine up (July was very hot and we had a hard time keeping up). But this month our chlorine levels have been very high, and I'm finding myself gradually putting it back down.
Incidentally I am also in Chesterfield Co., small world.
Incidentally I am also in Chesterfield Co., small world.
Wow, yes it is. I live right off Centralia Rd. I don't use a solar cover but I do have full sun. I'm going to do a water analysis later on and see if my chlorine level has gone up since it hasn't been too too sunny or hot. I just find this Swimpure Plus isn't as strong a unit as my old Aquarite, which lasted so long.