Test Strips : How to read this

[Mindflux]

While I wait for my TF Test Kit to arrive:

Nearest I can tell :

Total Hardness might be 400
FC appears zero?
PH seems above 8.4?
TA above 240? (it's super blue not greenish blue?)
CYA might be 30-50?

 

[JVTrain]

That's the trouble with test strips. First of all, it's hard to properly match the color. Second, the ranges are fairly useless. Particularly the CYA. If your CYA is 30, you need a different constant FC level than you do at 50. If you're above 50 but below 100, required FC is WILDLY different. It's a very similar case for CH, TA... etc. It's basically an educated guess at best using test strips. More like just a guess. I've used them on occasion to check the FC in my spa, but that's all I'd ever even use them for and still would rather rely on the K-1000 or a FAS-DPD test if I really want to know.

 

[tim5055]

I won't even use them for the spa anymore.

Mindflux, skip the strips and just keep chlorine in the pool until the test kit shows up. With those readings the only thing other than chlorine I would even think about doing is add a little muratic acid to bring down the pH a little - but even that is a guess.

 

[Mindflux]

I won't even use them for the spa anymore.

Mindflux, skip the strips and just keep chlorine in the pool until the test kit shows up. With those readings the only thing other than chlorine I would even think about doing is add a little muratic acid to bring down the pH a little - but even that is a guess.

Well I have a SWG, I added about 60 pounds of salt last night and ran the pump through this evening. Now I've got the SWG on boost mode for 24 hours (100% for 24h) to bring the FC up.

- - - Updated - - -

That's the trouble with test strips. First of all, it's hard to properly match the color. Second, the ranges are fairly useless. Particularly the CYA. If your CYA is 30, you need a different constant FC level than you do at 50. If you're above 50 but below 100, required FC is WILDLY different. It's a very similar case for CH, TA... etc. It's basically an educated guess at best using test strips. More like just a guess. I've used them on occasion to check the FC in my spa, but that's all I'd ever even use them for and still would rather rely on the K-1000 or a FAS-DPD test if I really want to know.

I've used reagents before for testing (Salt water fish tanks) and I always have problems determining the colors they use (since they also use color charts) and then don't get me started on "how many drops was that? 8 or 9? I forget". So those types of tests aren't infallible either for sure.

 

[RobbieH]

I agree with what Joel said. 100%. If it were possible to agree more than 100%, I would.

But, turn the strip so that it's vertical rather than horizontal. It'll make more sense.

The things that stands out is that your FC is way too low and pH is way too high.

 

[Mindflux]

I agree with what Joel said. 100%. If it were possible to agree more than 100%, I would.

But, turn the strip so that it's vertical rather than horizontal. It'll make more sense.

The things that stands out is that your FC is way too low and pH is way too high.

Working on it. Still don't believe that reagent kits are any better (other than sensitivity) since you can a) misscount drops, b) miss-match colors, c) not shake enough d) all the above.

 

[RobbieH]

Believe me they ARE better. Being able to trust the results is priceless.

Miscounting? For FC, I typically have to count to 10. And let's say for some reason I wasn't able to count to 10 (would have to be a lot of barley pop involved!), if I miss by a drop, so what. So my FC is 4.5 or 5.5 instead of 5. That's not near the margin of error like you are seeing in the example you have pictured.

When colors matter, there is a stark contrast. Pink turns clear. Blue turns red. It isn't red turning pink, or purple turning blue. It isn't subtle like what you are looking at there. You won't have to ask for assistance (this is where you say "touche").

Not shaking enough, well that depends. For pH, you can tell quickly whether or not the dark red dye is integrated through the clear water. For FC, it isn't that big a deal, just stir it around a little. It's the CH test that really needs a good stir. My recommendation is get the SpeedStir and forget about any stirring issues.

It doesn't matter too much in this case, but I can't tell if your CH is 200 or 400, and indeed the next step is 1000. Where is it?

Is your CYA 20? 30? 40? 50? 60? Like Joel said, those little steps make big differences in the real world.

Even if the strips are accurate (and they really aren't), the precision isn't fine enough.

 

[Mindflux]

Believe me they ARE better. Being able to trust the results is priceless.

Miscounting? For FC, I typically have to count to 10. And let's say for some reason I wasn't able to count to 10 (would have to be a lot of barley pop involved!), if I miss by a drop, so what. So my FC is 4.5 or 5.5 instead of 5. That's not near the margin of error like you are seeing in the example you have pictured.

When colors matter, there is a stark contrast. Pink turns clear. Blue turns red. It isn't red turning pink, or purple turning blue. It isn't subtle like what you are looking at there. You won't have to ask for assistance (this is where you say "touche").

Not shaking enough, well that depends. For pH, you can tell quickly whether or not the dark red dye is integrated through the clear water. For FC, it isn't that big a deal, just stir it around a little. It's the CH test that really needs a good stir. My recommendation is get the SpeedStir and forget about any stirring issues.

It doesn't matter too much in this case, but I can't tell if your CH is 200 or 400, and indeed the next step is 1000. Where is it?

Is your CYA 20? 30? 40? 50? 60? Like Joel said, those little steps make big differences in the real world.

Even if the strips are accurate (and they really aren't), the precision isn't fine enough.

Stark color changes are better but I always have issues with "was that 9 or 10 before it turned?"

Distractions always screw me up! Kids, dogs, wife, dinner, etc. heh

 

[jblizzle]

You are missing the point ... miscounting by one drop means a very minor difference versus the wild guessing required with strips. The only color matching required is pH and as long as it is orange/salmon and not bright pink or yellow you are fine.

 

[Mindflux]

You are missing the point ... miscounting by one drop means a very minor difference versus the wild guessing required with strips. The only color matching required is pH and as long as it is orange/salmon and not bright pink or yellow you are fine.

That's fine, but things like that stick with me for days.....

I guess I'll see how it goes.
heh!

 

[tim5055]

That's fine, but things like that stick with me for days.....

I guess I'll see how it goes.
heh!

That is what is great about this site, we give out the information and each user can apply or not apply the theories as they see fit.

To quote Dave, Site Owner of TFP

“Throughout TFP, you will read that we suggest certain levels that good science and practical experience has taught us fall within safe ranges.

Further reading of posts here will draw you to the inescapable conclusion that these guidelines work.......in thousands and thousands of pools worldwide.

You may or may not choose to use these methods and guidelines or you may use some and not others. Our goal is to teach you what has been proven time and time again and then let you use that information to your benefit.”

 

[Mindflux]

Ok my pH must have even been above 8.2, I added (20 ish oz) of 31.45 Muriatic acid yesterday and re-tested pH today with my TF-100 kit and it's still off the color chart (which ends at 8.2).

How much more MA should I add? Is there any way to get a diluted test (like the CYA?) to get a real PH reading?

Images:

http://imgur.com/rIqndF7,6t6F8uH

 

[tim5055]

No diluted test. Just keep adding small amounts until it gets on your test scale.

 

[jblizzle]

What is your FC?

You can add the acid demand reagent and that will give you a better idea how high the pH actually is.

 

[Mindflux]

What is your FC?

You can add the acid demand reagent and that will give you a better idea how high the pH actually is.

Somewhere between 1 and 2. Hard to tell on the yellow side. I need it do a full battery if tests but I was just checking out a little of the kit.

 

[timerguy]

Using the FAS-DPD is easier to accurately determine your FC/CC levels

 

[Mindflux]

Using the FAS-DPD is easier to accurately determine your FC/CC levels

Indeed I'll use that soon.

 

[timerguy]

I use mine exclusively, but I'm an accuracy nut. I'd rather use a little more reagent than worry about the colors of an OTO.

 

[bdex]

What is your FC?

You can add the acid demand reagent and that will give you a better idea how high the pH actually is.

Absolutely agree 100%. I use with the chart in my K2006 kit for the pool all the time.
Is there a factor for temperature. When I use the book to try to get the spa back in line it always seems to be off??


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[Xexys]

The test strips do not have a very long shelf life either. Most have a shelf life of six months and must be stored in a cool dark place. You would also want to store a test kit like the TF-100 in a cool dark place. Personally, I don't like the test strips for reasons outlined earlier. Too much fluctuation between values and the CYA value in your test strip is probably the most important and the values listed for that are way too vague.