Newbie Needs Help

vernon

0
Aug 4, 2008
4
i have an above ground pool 18x4 i have been useing walmart sockit and everything else they offer tons of money just to keep it swimable i tested it one hour ago the readings are as follows free chlor. 0.70, ph. 8.4, ta 160 ca. below 30.50 please help me i dont know what else to add to it my email is [email protected] i need a little help thanks

vernon
 
Hi Vernon...

Swimming Pools can be overwhelming when you first get started and are unfamiliar with pool water chemistry. I suggest you start in Pool School, the link is in my signature, and read all the articles from top to bottom. I also recommend you get yourself a good test kit, like the TF-100 or the Taylor K-2006. You can compare the two test kits using the article in Pool School.

What are you currently using to test your water?

I know you feel like you have spent a ton of money. With the BBB method we advocate here, your pool products will be purchased at regular stores and tend to cost less than expensive "pool products" like "sock it" and the like. So by switching to BBB you will spend less money on your pool, I promise you that.

In addition to the results you gave us, we need to know your CC, your TH or CH, and your CYA (is your "ca.below 30.50") is that your CYA result?

What color is your water - green/cloudy? Clear?

Is this an Intex pool?

Your PH is too high, you need to get some Muratic Acid from the hardware store and read about how to Lower PH. Use the Pool Calculator for dosing, the link is in my signature.

Your FC is too low, it should not be less than 2ppm, and it may need to be higher than that depending on your CYA level. The rest of your test results will give us some clues as to whether we'd advise you to shock your pool (with liquid chlorine) or just up the amount you have in there now.

Can you please update your signature by going to "User Control Panel" - top left, then "Profile" and then "Edit Signature" - include your pool equipment and specs there. It will be most helpful to those responding to your posts.
 
Thanks for the help my readings are as follows

cya 0
th 0
ph 7.8
ta 120
fc o

and the pool is green the problem is it will get green we will shock it clean the bottom then it is good for a day or so then it gets back to green llike over night i am going to try the BBB method but i need to get the green out first i have read pool school i know a lot more now than before but i still cant figure out where to get borax (what does it come in)

any help will be aprecieated. i will put my info on my pprofile also thanks
 
HI IM BACK AGAIN MY READINGS WERE AS FOLLOWS

CYA 0
TH 0
PH 7.8
TA 120
FC 0


I ADDED 64 OZ OF MURATIC ACID, 3 GAL OF BLEACH AT DIFFERENT TIMES. NOW MY WATER IS NOT GREEN IT IS CLEAR BUT CLOWDY. MY READINGS AT 6 AM TODAY ARE AS FOLLOWS

CYA 30
TH 400
PH 7.2
TA 120
FC 1.2

I LET THE PUMP RUN FOR ABOUT 3 HOURS AFTER I FINISHED ADDING NOW I WOULD LIKE TO KNOW WHAT TO ADD TO GET THE CLOWDYNESS OUT

THANKS FOR THE HELP
 
vernon said:
HI IM BACK AGAIN MY READINGS WERE AS FOLLOWS

CYA 0
TH 0
PH 7.8
TA 120
FC 0


I ADDED 64 OZ OF MURATIC ACID, 3 GAL OF BLEACH AT DIFFERENT TIMES. NOW MY WATER IS NOT GREEN IT IS CLEAR BUT CLOWDY. MY READINGS AT 6 AM TODAY ARE AS FOLLOWS

CYA 30
TH 400
PH 7.2
TA 120
FC 1.2

I LET THE PUMP RUN FOR ABOUT 3 HOURS AFTER I FINISHED ADDING NOW I WOULD LIKE TO KNOW WHAT TO ADD TO GET THE CLOWDYNESS OUT

THANKS FOR THE HELP

Hi Vernon,

I'm seeing some inconistencies. You said you added Muratic Acid and Bleach, yet your Hardness went from 0 to 400. This is impossible based on the items you said you added, so is it possible this is a testing error? What are you testing with?
Same with CYA. It went from 0 to 30 but you don't mention adding it....?

In any event, your FC is too low to clear your pool. (Your FC is too low to prevent more algae...see below).

If your water was green, that was algae. You need to shock your pool, which is adding enough bleach to get your FC level to 12ppm, and hold it there until your pool is clear. This requires that you run your filter 24/7 until it's clear. Brush your pool every day, and keep adding bleach to hold your FC to 12ppm until it clears.

NEVER let your FC drop below 2ppm. EVER. You will only go green again. Adding bleach is a daily thing, and when you are shocking, it's even more often. As much as hourly sometimes, when the green is really bad. Clearing a green or cloudy pool takes time but it also takes a lot of bleach and running the filter 24/7.

Read about Defeating Algae and Shocking your Pool in Pool School for additional reading.

Good job on lowering the PH.
:goodjob:
 
vernon again i know i am alot of trouble but iwill try to get this resolved as quick as i can.
but i went and got a new box of test strips and my readings are completly different
cya closer to 0 than 30
th 200
ph 7.2
ta between 80-120
fc between 0-1.2
i put the muratic acid in allready so do i need the cyanuric acid also and which one works with the chlorine ? eill i need to add the acid often im sory but i have read pool school and it does help i just need a little help at times once iget it right i will keep it right .
and how do i become a tfp supporter
 
a) test strips are notoriously unreliable. We call them "Guess Strips" ! You need a good kit as recommended previously so you can get a handle on things.
b) there is an oval banner at the top left of every screen here: Become a TFP Supporter! (if it was a snake... :wink: :wink: )
c) Muriatic acid is used to lower pH. Cyanuric acid (CYA, stabilizer, conditioner) is used to help keep your chlorine from being degraded quickly by the sun. YES, you still need CYA.

Read the pool school again. It will become more and more clear as you read! (no pun intended!)

Welcome to TFP!
 

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vernon said:
i put the muratic acid in allready so do i need the cyanuric acid also and which one works with the chlorine ?

Muratic Acid lowers PH and TA. Cyanuric Acid is "stabilizer" and it protects your chlorine from the Sun. Without it, all your chlorine is lost during the daylight, and you can't fight algae. You add CYA by putting it in a sock or nylon and hanging it in front of the return until it dissolves. It takes up to a week to fully dissolve and register on tests. Muratic Acid can be added at any time, just NOT at the same time as chlorine or bleach. Wait an hour or two between adding bleach or acid. The CYA in the sock can be hanging there whenever, it's not a problem. It will also lower your PH a bit but not as well as Muratic Acid.

Keep shocking!

Once you become a supporter you'll be able to get a discount on the TF100 test kit, and I highly recommend you order the kit and abandon the unreliable strips. :goodjob:
 
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