Green Baquacil pool help

[wigirlchris]

We bought our house w/ the AG pool earlier this year. Its 4 years old and had been a chlorine pool. I decided to convert it to a Baquacil system. I had pretty good results with the softswim and our Intex pool for 2 years. After many $$$, I had my pool clear after about 2 months of dealing with it. About 2 weeks ago, it really needed to be cleaned because there was a white dust like substance on the walls and bottom. I had never actually vacuumed it out because I had a real hard time getting that to work. So, I figured it was just dirty. I finally got the vacuum to work, but when I vacuumed to filter, all the white stuff came shooting back into the pool. So, I immediately set it to vacuum to waste. Well that and backflushing it took about 6 inches of water out of the pool. After refilling w/ city water and adding more oxidizer and sanitizer, I thought I was good. However, a couple days later, it was green and has been green ever since. I've been pounding it with oxidizer & sanitizer to get it clear again w/ no success. I went to the pool store today to get the water tested. According to the results, the Oxidizer level is higher than the max & the Biguanide level is higher than the max. So I guess there's enough of that stuff in it, but why is it still green? ph is high at 8.3, alkalinity is high at 242. The pool store had me add a whole bottle of poolife Defend+ & 2 capsfuls of pool perfect+ Phosfree. Just added it tonight. He also said it is ok to put a smart stix in my skimmer. Now as far as I heard, I should not be adding any chlorine to the pool. Can anyone confirm this is ok to do?

After reading all the posts here and messing w/ this pool for 2+ months now along w/ the expense, I'm ready to switch. I'm pretty sure my sand filter needs to be changed anyway as it over 4 years old. Just don't know if I should do it now or wait until spring when I open up. The Oxidizer & Sanitizer levels are very high, so do I have to wait until all that runs out?

 

[Leebo]

Hello, and welcome to TFP!

I think you'll find VERY few members who will even attempt to assist you in clearing your pool using Baquacil. It's simply not worth messing with as you have seen. The cost is just tooooo much hassle to deal with in the long run. Seeing you're in WI I presume your swim season is coming to an end shortly, which does give you an advantage if switching. The conversion WILL rid the pool of all the oxidizer and Sanitizer that you are concerned about, however you will end up using more chlorine than if those levels were low. Waiting until early early spring will allow those numbers to come down some on their own (plus any added fresh water from snow/rain will help too) and will help you in the long run.

As for clearing the current pool.........
I would hold off on adding additional Sanitizer, as it's a large expense and doesn't kill the algae. I would continue testing/adding the Baquacil Oxidizer to keep those levels high, and in time the pool will turn back blue. From there you can add the sanitizer as needed and any algaecide. Adding ANY chlorine to your pool at this point will only work in breaking down the Baqua you currently have in there, so they are wrong in suggesting you add one to the skimmer. As a side note.......we NEVER suggest adding chemicals to the skimmer either.

I do have this question for you however in helping you in the long run. How large is the pool? If wanting to convert, it maybe cheapest to simply drain the pool and add fresh water. You will still need to do the conversion process to rid any plumbing of the Baqua, but with 100% fresh water it will speed up the process.

 

[wigirlchris]

Hi Leebo & thanks for replying!
It is 24' pool, estimated to be about 15,000 gal. It has a sand filter and also a heater. We were planning to be able to swim until the end of Sept (in about 1 1/2 months), but not if it is a complete headache and huge cost.

That's a great idea about emptying the pool. Unfortunately, we have city water which we need to pay for. However, I have some connections which could bring over a small tank truck to fill it.

I would consider switching now if the cost is not too high.
Do you know about how much it would cost (guesstimated) to convert this size of pool considering the cost of replacing the sand in the sand filter?
Option 1 - keeping water as-is
Option B - emptying and refilling

 

[Jersey Devil]

You are a sturdier soul than I if you plan to swim until the end of September in Green Bay! On a serious note, as a Baquacil convert, I like Leebo's suggestion. Cleaning the pool using the Baqua system is an exercise in futility. Converting to the TFP method will take some time and be a little expensive considering your current high biquanide levels. I was faced with the same situation a few years ago and elected to sacrifice the last month of the swim season (in NJ I usually quit around Labor Day when the grandkids return to school). I stopped adding Baqua and continued with the oxidizer until closing. Emptying the pool is an option, but 15,000 gallons of water, even in bulk, may be more of an expense than converting. When I opened in Spring the conversion took less than a week and amounted to surprisingly little in bleach cost. I did not even get the rainbow of colors that usually accompany a conversion. Filter sand is pretty cheap and depending on your filter size you will probably be under $15. Bleach cost was maybe $30 for a 20,000 gallon pool; however, costs vary widely and depend on your individual pool conditions and where you get your bleach. I recommend finding a supplier for 12.5% sodium hypochlorite in 5-gallon jugs as the cheapest way in most regions. Check out the threads on Baquacil conversion and you will be on the right track. No matter which method you choose, once the Baqua gunk is gone get on the TFP method and enjoy a crystal clear pool for as long as you are there.

 

[wigirlchris]

Ok, I did it. I'm taking the plunge to convert and am really excited! Today, we completely emptied the pool. Oh, how nice that all that green water is gone! There was maybe 2 gallons of water left in the bottom and it was not green as we were running the water hose to push everything to the center and pumping it out. We started refilling about 8:15pm and I imagine it will probably take all night to fill with the hose. I had called the water department earlier and found out that it will only cost me about $35 to fill 15,000 gallons! While the pool was emptying, we also emptied the sand from the sand filter and washed that out. We will refill w/ sand tomorrow with Quikrete silica pool sand. So, now the question is, when it is filled, what do I do? Since there really isn't much of anything left of the Baqua...maybe a little water in the heater, but all the other lines are empty. We could run a hose into the heater to get rid of that too.

So, just wondering what chemicals I would need to put in when I get it all hooked up.
I also ordered a new Nature2 cartridge on Amazon as there was an old on it. That is coming tomorrow.
I still need to get a testing kit - any recommendations on where to get a good one at a decent price?

Any help is greatly appreciated!

Chris
15,000 gal 24' AG Vinyl liner pool
Sand Dollar SD-60 filter
Dyanmo Pump

 

[Leebo]

I'd like to start by congratulating you on dirt cheap water! Lucked out there!!

Now I'd start by suggesting you read up in Pool School. The first two articles to be read in your case should be ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry and Converting your Baqua Pool to Chlorine. If you've got questions after reading please feel free to ask away!

While you lucked out in dirt water, you'll still need to preform the conversion. There will still be Baqua-Goo hidden in the plumbing, lights, stairs, and any other crack it can find. Kill it all off or you will have issues down the road. It will go rather quickly as your Baqua levels are rather low. You can help it out be brushing/scrubbing anything and everything you can with a solution of bleach and water. Again, anything that's ever touched Baqua should be cleaned.

As for a good test kit, I'd suggest ordering the TF-100. You'll find that it's the best bang for your buck. It can be paid for by returning the Nature 2 ASAP. I wouldn't even open the box. It works by adding small doses of Copper to your water to act as an Algicide. Side effects of this are green hair, metal stains, and a lighter pocket book. Start off by reading the two articles I've listed above, then ask any questions you've got. We'll be happy to help out.

 

[tim5055]

Here is the list of recommended test kits. The TF100 is the most recommended

Send the Nature2 back to Amazon, you don't want the metals in your water

Bleach and stabilizer/CYA is all you should buy. Don't stock up on anything else until testing proves you need it.

Oh. Did I say send back the Nature 2?

 

[wigirlchris]

Pool is still filling. Takes a long time. Has about 8 more inches to go and its looking very nice with the clean water! Also, waiting for my TF100 XL test kit to be delivered. I don't think it will get delivered until Friday. So in looking at the conversion steps...looks like I made a mistake and had changed out my sand filter sand too early. We emptied the sand filter when we emptied the pool. Hope there is not too much of the Baqua-Goo hidden away to mess up the new sand.

We are planning to put the sand filter back together today and get all hosing hooked up. I'm wondering if I should soak the hoses in some water/bleach solution to get out as much of the Baqua stuff as I can. Maybe even wash off the solar cover w/ the solution too. I'd like to manually get rid of as much of the Baqua-Goo before it hits my new sand in the sand filter.

We are going on vacation on Friday until Monday. I thought I could have had this all done by then. It is taking longer than I thought. I'm sure glad that I emptied and refilled the pool. That water has been in there from the previous owners for 4 years. Yuck. Just wondering if I should actually do anything to it before the long weekend. I would like to get the solar cover on so that it starts heating it back up. But not sure if I should even start the conversion.

First step of the conversion is to test the ph. However, I won't get my kit until Friday. I used a Baqua test strip which is not very accurate. I'm guessing it is somewhere between 7.5 & 7.8. I'm wondering if I should buy some cheap ph kit from the pool store (or somewhere else) to use now until my good kit comes. To get the ph down, I need to add muriatic acid. Where else can I get this except from the pool store? Is there just one kind, or one better to get than another?

And I'm assuming only after I get the ph down can I start adding the bleach, correct?

And, yes, I'm sending back the Nature 2. The previous owner used it and was very happy with it, so that is why I bought it.

I'm going to Costco to see if they have bleach and maybe the stabilizer/CYA. Is there any where else someone would suggest to get these at for a good price?

Thanks!
Chris
15,000 gal 24' AG Vinyl liner pool, Sand Dollar SD-60 filter, Dyanmo Pump, Raypak heater

 

[tim5055]

I'm wondering if I should buy some cheap ph kit from the pool store (or somewhere else) to use now until my good kit comes. To get the ph down, I need to add muriatic acid. Where else can I get this except from the pool store? Is there just one kind, or one better to get than another?

And I'm assuming only after I get the ph down can I start adding the bleach, correct?

And, yes, I'm sending back the Nature 2. The previous owner used it and was very happy with it, so that is why I bought it.

I'm going to Costco to see if they have bleach and maybe the stabilizer/CYA. Is there any where else someone would suggest to get these at for a good price?

Thanks!
Chris
15,000 gal 24' AG Vinyl liner pool, Sand Dollar SD-60 filter, Dyanmo Pump, Raypak heater

You can pick up an inexpensive OTO test kit at WalMart for about $5.

For me muratic acid is a Lowes item. They keep it in the paint department. Two types, green label "lo fume" and blue label full strength stuff. Go for the blue label.

You can add bleach now. As a matter of fact, the sooner the better to keep things from growing. Just separate bleach and muratic acid additions by about 30 minutes with the filter running to allow which ever you put in first to get mixed into the pool.

Good sending back the Nature2.

Costco has a three pack of 121oz 8.25% Clorox for $8.15 if I'm correct. We are more than an hour from the closest Costco, so when we go i pick up a three pack or two. WalMart is my usual source of 8.25%. $2.98 a 121 oz bottle. For some reason I remember WI folks saying there were sources for 10% & 12.5% up there. Fleet farm I think.

 

[wigirlchris]

We finished putting together the sand filter late yesterday and finished filling it last night. I backflushed and started it. Today around Noon, I put in 3 121oz 8.25% bleach. I received my TF-100 kit today and just took a sample tonight. I did the chlorine drop test and it resulted in 12 ppm FC & CC is 0, PH looks to be 7.2.
The pool is clear, no Baqua goo to be seen. Should I add more bleach tonight? Do I need to get the FC level to 15? Anything else I should do?

Thanks!
Chris
15,000 gal 24' AG Vinyl liner pool, Sand Dollar SD-60 filter, Dyanmo Pump, Raypak heater

 

[Leebo]

Test again in the morning and see what the FC level is once again. Bump it back up to 15 then wait. The sun today will consume most of your chlorine, as there is no CYA in the water. After sunset, test once again and bump it back up to 15 overnight. This will give the chlorine the chance to kill off any Baqua without being consumed by the sun. Keep doing this until you pass the OCLT and your CC reading is less than 0.5 for two days in a row. Brush/vacuum often during this process, as it helps it move faster. Hit up every little nook and cranny you can find.

 

[wigirlchris]

Hi Leebo,
I tested this morning...sun had already been on the pool for maybe an hour or two. FC=9, CC = .5 (so overnight, it went from 12 to 9)

Pool is clear w/ nothing on the bottom and nothing floating in it.

I am leaving today in about 2 hours to go out of town and will not be back until Monday. Any suggestions on what to do before I go? (I have someone that could dump more bleach in tomorrow - don't think they would be able to test the water though)

I've washed the pool cover with a water/bleach solution. Should I cover the pool before I go?

Thanks!
Chris
15,000 gal 24' AG Vinyl liner pool, Sand Dollar SD-60 filter, Dyanmo Pump, Raypak heater

 

[tsomerville]

I was successful in clearing out a green baquacil pool for less than $60 in chemicals. Video link in my post below.

I have experience with Salt, plain Chlorine and Baquacil. I like them all, and let me give you a quick tour.

Sticking with Baquacil? Read this:
First, if you experience white mold, just drop in 1 capful of Baquacil Flock into your filter. This allows the sand filter to get rid of very fine particles, including white mold.
Second, if you neglect your pool for an entire month, and you get worst case full green algae, I have a video of how I got it back to 100% clear blue.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RUqvK0ZWZVI

Pros: I like how "silky" the baquacil feels, and I like how the chemical "sticks around" even in bright sunlight. That allows me less hands-on maintenance time.
Cons: It seems to be more expensive. Like $60 / month in chemicals. Some kids don't like the "soapy" taste of the water.

Thinking of salt water pool?
First, a salt pool is essentially a chlorine pool. So many people don't realize this.
Second, the salt chlorine generators simply provide a constant stream of chlorine gas, which allows it to "keep up" with less worries and maintenance of chemical levels.

Pros: it keeps up with chlorine production. My family thought they were swimming in less chlorine (but honestly I think the levels were the same). The salt level feels good on your skin. You can use shock to catch back up, etc.
Cons: If you have a metal Intex pool frame, the salt can corrode your frame very quickly. It happened to me when I measured the salt wrong, kept adding more, and my frame quickly collapsed! Another con, the salt water generators do add a cost, and have to be cleaned out now and then. I got a little tired of the consumer grade ones from Intex, and the "Pro" ones are extremely expensive.

How about normal Chlorine?
First, everybody that thinks they are allergic to chlorine probably means the bad combined chlorine / used up type. Maintaining the right levels doesn't cause eyes to burn, etc.
Second, the number of products off the shelf are so easy to get and use. And if you follow some of the other threads where you add Borax at 35 ppm then I had the most sparkly water EVER.

Pros: cheap, easy to use and easy to recover from when you didn't keep up with it. cheap once again. so nice!
Most any "pool guy" can take care of this type of pool too. No specialists needed.
Cons: My wife thinking that it's bad for the kids (I don't agree). I find Chlorine to escape a bit quickly, even with CYA (cyuranic acid), or sometimes it's odd to deal with CYA building up too much. No big deal, I just found myself tinkering with the chemistry more often with the Chlorine approach when doing a small above ground pool.

In ALL of these systems, you still need to pay attention to pH and Alkalinity levels. ALL of these require you to vacuum or filter in some way. There is no such thing as a maintenance free pool.

Hope this helps. All these systems are doable - don't be afraid and take control of your water.

We bought our house w/ the AG pool earlier this year. Its 4 years old and had been a chlorine pool. I decided to convert it to a Baquacil system. I had pretty good results with the softswim and our Intex pool for 2 years. After many $$$, I had my pool clear after about 2 months of dealing with it. About 2 weeks ago, it really needed to be cleaned because there was a white dust like substance on the walls and bottom. I had never actually vacuumed it out because I had a real hard time getting that to work. So, I figured it was just dirty. I finally got the vacuum to work, but when I vacuumed to filter, all the white stuff came shooting back into the pool. So, I immediately set it to vacuum to waste. Well that and backflushing it took about 6 inches of water out of the pool. After refilling w/ city water and adding more oxidizer and sanitizer, I thought I was good. However, a couple days later, it was green and has been green ever since. I've been pounding it with oxidizer & sanitizer to get it clear again w/ no success. I went to the pool store today to get the water tested. According to the results, the Oxidizer level is higher than the max & the Biguanide level is higher than the max. So I guess there's enough of that stuff in it, but why is it still green? ph is high at 8.3, alkalinity is high at 242. The pool store had me add a whole bottle of poolife Defend+ & 2 capsfuls of pool perfect+ Phosfree. Just added it tonight. He also said it is ok to put a smart stix in my skimmer. Now as far as I heard, I should not be adding any chlorine to the pool. Can anyone confirm this is ok to do?

After reading all the posts here and messing w/ this pool for 2+ months now along w/ the expense, I'm ready to switch. I'm pretty sure my sand filter needs to be changed anyway as it over 4 years old. Just don't know if I should do it now or wait until spring when I open up. The Oxidizer & Sanitizer levels are very high, so do I have to wait until all that runs out?

 

[kellyfair]

Not sure if you norticed how old these posts were... a lot of these folks may not check the forums much these days!