1st test

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AnnetteSimpson

AnnetteSimpson

0
Jul 5, 2014
12
murrieta ca
Hello You awesome Pool School Guys! You have helped me so much already just trying to get my pool to function (I THINK I figured out the spa leak, the drain backup issue, and a few other issues still in progress). Now I am finally ready to get the water in shape so we can actually swim and enjoy the pool! By reading here, I think I have a good test kit, but it was left by previous home owner so I have no idea how old the kit is. I took my water to local store and had them test and then have been trying to use my kit and see if I can get the same results, but no luck! Not sure if its the kit, or if its the fact that my CYA levels are so high that I need larger amounts of FC per your chart... IF I am reading the chart correctly?? So here is what I got if you can please let me know if I am doing this right! FYI: Unfortunately, I used a bunch of products before I found your website to get the pool chemicals to where they are now. I can't undo that, but I have definitely learned my lesson and won't take any advice from anyone buy you guys here from now on! At the beginning of June I added 15 gallons of chlorine (still only got a .2 FC reading), 1 quart of phosphate remover (my phosphate level was 2000+), 2 quarts of algeacide (my pool was a thick green, murky, mosquito pond when we moved in).

Per my local pool store my readings are:

Local Pool Store Chart
………… My Results Min Max
Total Chlorine 2.8 1.0 3.0
Free Chlorine 2.8 1.0 3.0
pH…………………. 7.8 7.2 7.6
Totol Alkalinity 130 100 120
Calcium Hardness 400 200 400
Stabilizer (CYA) 105 30 100

If I try to use my Taylor Deluxe DPD Test Kit
I can barely get a pink color. Looks like there is less than the .5 based on the color indicator.

If I am reading the Pool School CYA chart correctly... CYA level of 30 means 2-4 FC range is optimal. Since my CYA level is 105 my FC range should be 7-12 so I need to slam and add a lot more chlorine, right??
So I am trying to figure out of my test kit should be replaced. If I should be between 7-12 because of the high CYA levels, then maybe my kit is correct and I will get the right color reading after I slam to bring the FC level up to match the CYA???

1 more question. Taylor Chart and Pool school say based on CYA level of 30 that FC range should be between 2-4, but my local stores all say 1-3. Is this different just based on our region? You guys are nationwide so you have to appeal to a larger demographic, should I use my local store recommendations because they know my climate? Or ignore them and stick with your chart? You have been right about everything else! So I am good with following your advice and chart!!
 
AnnetteSimpson said:
Hello You awesome Pool School Guys! You have helped me so much already just trying to get my pool to function (I THINK I figured out the spa leak, the drain backup issue, and a few other issues still in progress). Now I am finally ready to get the water in shape so we can actually swim and enjoy the pool! By reading here, I think I have a good test kit, but it was left by previous home owner so I have no idea how old the kit is. I took my water to local store and had them test and then have been trying to use my kit and see if I can get the same results, but no luck! Not sure if its the kit, or if its the fact that my CYA levels are so high that I need larger amounts of FC per your chart... IF I am reading the chart correctly?? So here is what I got if you can please let me know if I am doing this right! FYI: Unfortunately, I used a bunch of products before I found your website to get the pool chemicals to where they are now. I can't undo that, but I have definitely learned my lesson and won't take any advice from anyone buy you guys here from now on! At the beginning of June I added 15 gallons of chlorine (still only got a .2 FC reading), 1 quart of phosphate remover (my phosphate level was 2000+), 2 quarts of algeacide (my pool was a thick green, murky, mosquito pond when we moved in).

Per my local pool store my readings are:

Local Pool Store Chart
………… My Results Min Max
Total Chlorine 2.8 1.0 3.0
Free Chlorine 2.8 1.0 3.0
pH…………………. 7.8 7.2 7.6
Totol Alkalinity 130 100 120
Calcium Hardness 400 200 400
Stabilizer (CYA) 105 30 100

If I try to use my Taylor Deluxe DPD Test Kit
I can barely get a pink color. Looks like there is less than the .5 based on the color indicator.

If I am reading the Pool School CYA chart correctly... CYA level of 30 means 2-4 FC range is optimal. Since my CYA level is 105 my FC range should be 7-12 so I need to slam and add a lot more chlorine, right??
So I am trying to figure out of my test kit should be replaced. If I should be between 7-12 because of the high CYA levels, then maybe my kit is correct and I will get the right color reading after I slam to bring the FC level up to match the CYA???

1 more question. Taylor Chart and Pool school say based on CYA level of 30 that FC range should be between 2-4, but my local stores all say 1-3. Is this different just based on our region? You guys are nationwide so you have to appeal to a larger demographic, should I use my local store recommendations because they know my climate? Or ignore them and stick with your chart? You have been right about everything else! So I am good with following your advice and chart!!
Click to expand...
If you have read around here much you have probably seen that not much credence is given to pool store testing. While you would think that a "professional" would be the best, unfortunately in most cases it is quite the opposite. Between employees who blindly trust the word of chemical sales representatives and high school kids working in the pool store for the summer you end up with poor results from their testing.

You will need to pick up one of the recommended test kits. To effectively practice the TFPC methods, the FAS/DPD chlorine test is essential. All the kits on the list contain that test while the one the owner left behind does not. You can purchase the FAS/DPD test stand alone to upgrade your kit, but as you say you don;t know how old it is. The reagents/chemicals do have a shelf life after which they don't work as expected. Check out tftestkits.net

If we believe the numbers your CYA is way too high and because of that your FC is too low.
 
Ignore phosphates, pool stores use this as a way to take your money. They almost never matter.

You are experiencing what a lot of people find, pool store testing is inconsistent. You have also just discovered the second problem, pool stores do not know the relationship between FC and CYA. They just use a blanket range for every pool.

Your CYA may be well over 105. You need to mix pool water and tap water 50/50, test again, then double the result.

Let's cut to the chase. You need to get a good test kit with fresh reagents, and take over maintenance and testing of your pool. You must decide to drop the pool store, if you continue to take their advice it will conflict with the advice we are giving you. You can't do both at the same time. You must also determine your CYA level once you have your kit.

My gut feeling is this: Your CYA level is high, your FC level is too low, algae has taken hold. You need to drain some water to lower CYA, refill, and SLAM. You can't know this for sure until you have a good test kit.
 
RobbieH said:
Let's cut to the chase. You need to get a good test kit with fresh reagents, and take over maintenance and testing of your pool. You must decide to drop the pool store, if you continue to take their advice it will conflict with the advice we are giving you. You can't do both at the same time. You must also determine your CYA level once you have your kit.

My gut feeling is this: Your CYA level is high, your FC level is too low, algae has taken hold. You need to drain some water to lower CYA, refill, and SLAM. You can't know this for sure until you have a good test kit.
Click to expand...
:goodpost:
 
Thanks guys! Of course I trust you! I will buy a new kit this weekend and stop going to the pool store. Reading the forum about test kits, I thought I had the recommended test kit and just needed new reagents?? Its the Deluxe DPD kit from Taylor. It says it does FC & TC, Bromine, pH, Acid Demand and total alkalinity, is this not the right one? It looks like the kit used in the tutorial that you have a link to at Taylor with testing demo. Above he mentioned FAS/DPD. I don't know what FAS stands for, but I will try to go find it again in the test kit forum.
 
Is the kit you have old? I thought you said you have the Taylor kit the previous homeowner left behind? If it is new, you have everything you need except that most likely you have the K-2005. You can make up for this by adding this single item - http://tftestkits.net/FAS-DPD-Chlorine-CC-s-test-p47.html

I'm just a little worried that you don't know how old the kit is, or how it was cared for.
 
Oh, and my CYA level is improving. It was at 135. We are in a water restriction area, so draining a large amount of water is not allowed. I have had a spa draining issue and have been losing a spa full of water daily for the past 2 weeks and have been refilling every day that amount... not as efficient, but it seems to be working. And that amount I am losing is going into my yard (broken drain pipe to the street) at least I have green grass and the city can't see water running down the street and fine me $500/day!!
I just ordered new parts for the spa, and we have friends coming to help us tear up the yard and fix the drain pipe this weekend. After we clean up the mess and stop hemorrhaging water I will be able to get a more accurate CYA level and figure out how to drain more water if we need to after all repairs are done. (Did I mention that we also had a slab leak in the middle of the house that flooded our kitchen (now with moldy cabinets) and ruined the new living/family/guest room carpet we installed in April?) Welcome to new home ownership! We've been turning the water off at the main drain every day when we are not using water and still had a $450 water bill every month since we bought the house 3/31/14. Oh ya, and the home warranty co is refusing to cover anything! The spa draining, drain pipe breaking, slab leak, etc... they claim it is all linked together and "underground" so they don't cover it!
 
You are right, It is from previous owner, so I don't know how old it is. I will see if its cheaper to buy new kit vs just replacing the reagents. I thought that would save me a few bucks... if you see my other comment about CYA level improving, you will understand why I am totally broke! Absolutely NOTHING around this house is working or covered by the warranty we purchased so I truly feel like I am using an eye dropper full of water to put out a forest fire! I have hired 4 "professional" pool co's to come out and advise me and I am still no where! 1st guy told me he was new and he only knew about chemicals and this job was out of his league, 2nd guy charged me $400 and ripped me off! He installed about $30 worth of parts, said he'd be back in a few days after we let the filter run for a few days and has ignored my phone calls and never returned to finish the job. 3rd & 4th guy just said they couldn't figure out the problem so it must be underground somewhere. The only good advice I have gotten has been here on your website and I am trying to figure it out on my own!
 
You can get by with just the reagents for the FAS/DPD I posted above, R-0014 for pH testing, and R-0013 for CYA testing for now if you are on a budget. I would recommend grabbing everything you need for CH tests, if you feel your CH testing is not accurate. Try it on your own once and see what you get.

In case you didn't know, here is where you find your instructions on using the kit:
http://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/24188-Extended-Test-Kit-Directions
 

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