Raising calcium level question

Jul 31, 2008
7
I have a SW, 20k gallon, in-ground, gunite pool, built in 11/07.

I have a few questions for a rookie pool owner:
1. We have very soft water. About a month ago, my water tested at 100 ppm. I added 25 lbs of Hardness Up and my level now reads at 230 (which I believe is acceptable). Today, for the first time, I noticed white flakes settled on the bottom of the pool. Are these calcium deposits and are they a "by-product" of the Hardness Up? Is it temporary?
2. My chlorine generator has a very hard time keeping up with chlorine demand. The last few times I've had my water tested, it's shown absolutely 0 FAC and TAC. I shocked it for the 2nd time in about a week today. Is it normal to have to supplement by adding Chlor-Brite or Chlorine tabs in my skimmers to keep up? I thought I was getting away with that with the salt water pool.
3. Am I wasting my money on Pool Perfect with Phos Free. I bought it at the recommendation of my local pool company. My phosphates were at 100ppb. It was suggested I add 2 2/1 capfulls per week to keep the phosphate level down. Big expense.

Here are my other readings if you need them:
pH 7.6
TA 100
CAlcium Hardness 230
CYA 70
Salt 4000 (I know this may be a little high)

Thanks for all your input and expertise! I'm glad I found this site.
 
Double6 said:
3. Am I wasting my money on Pool Perfect with Phos Free. I bought it at the recommendation of my local pool company. My phosphates were at 100ppb. It was suggested I add 2 2/1 capfulls per week to keep the phosphate level down. Big expense.
Right from the Natural Chemistry website on the Pool Perfect with Phos Free page (and on several other of their pages) is this disclaimer:
'Normal sanitizer levels will prevent algae growth. Maintain dealer recommended sanitizer levels in accord with your sanitizing system.'
http://naturalchemistry.com/pool-and-sp ... cts/show/6

I think that says it all!

BTW, my own orthophosphate levels are over 3000 ppb and I recently got back from a 12 day vacation expecting a green pool since I had turned off my pump and SWG. Guess what? Pool was clear!
 
Welcome to the forum. :-D

Check your SWG Cell, see if the metal looks like it's coated with white scale....see if that's possibly part of the problem. It's better to supplement with liquid chlorine or bleach instead of tabs, they add CYA and your's is just right, you don't want it much higher. Also, it's not a good idea to put tabs in the skimmer, unless you are running your filter 24/7.

It's possible you can't hold a FC level because you have algae trying to take hold and it's consuming the FC as it is added. Sometimes this is the case even tho the water is essentially clear. So I would try shocking your pool (with bleach) and see if that makes a difference.

Phosphate products are the biggest profit maker for poolstores, and in most cases unnecessary.

I'm not sure about the white flakes, but others with more knowledge (and more knowledge about SWG's) will be along shortly to chime in I'm sure.
 
Thank you both very much. I think I just wasted about $40 on some Pool Perfect with Phos Free. Small price to pay to get educated though.
To date, I've been fortunate enough to have never experienced algae. None that is visible, that is. Pool is chrystal clear.
I took your advice on the SWG. It had a little scaling so I used a 1:1 acid solution. It bubbled for a few seconds. I let it soak and then rinsed it off. Just FYI, this SWG is only about a month old. The previous one was defective (cell and life lights flashed continously) and it was replaced under warranty.
Thanks again!!!
 
I think that the Phos free may be causing the white flakes and depleting your chlorine. At 100 ppb, your phosphates a low enough to ignore. I would advise you to stop using the Phos-free and clean your filter and SWG cell.
 
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