Finally hard plumbed my Intex!

hyperionguy

LifeTime Supporter
Oct 2, 2012
212
Houston, TX
I have been pondering it for a long time and spent lot a of time staring at my setup wondering how I would do it. Following are some pics. I will post later with a parts list as I did it a bit different from how some others have done it. I got the box adapters at Lowes but it seems they have changed the part number. The link someone else posted shows that the part is no longer available.

The suction port and return are both Hayward. They fit perfectly in the holes I had for the large Intex plunger valves I had. No need to modify and I had minimal water loss while swapping them out. I wanted to have the better fittings for standardization purposes and also to avoid 2 more box adapter work arounds.

I decided to use rubber L connectors instead of unions because it was easy and it gives me some flex to make up for alignment mistakes. You can see the R-Max foam board peeking out from beneath the pool. Yes, I know I should have used the pink extruded foam, but the 2 stores I went to didn't have enough and I was going to setup THAT day, so no time to keep looking.

I chose to use a sweeping T to join the suction port with the skimmer rather than a regular hard 90 degree T which theoretically causes less disruption.



Close up of the skimmer piping. If I do it again in the future, I would search for valves with slip fittings rather than threaded so I could have avoided the additional fitting on either side.



Close up of the return piping.



Close up of the suction piping.



The pump side piping. This is the only place I had to do the box adapter fix. I used long 90 degree parts instead of hard 90s hoping it would be a little less head pressure.



Suction side.



Having a standard port lets me unscrew the strainer and use the standard vacuum adapter. Now I don't have to use that skimmer adapter that came with the Hayward skimmer. That is nice!



The whole Hayward setup. Suction port on the left, skimmer in the middle, and return on the right.



It's just crazy how much more flow there is. This little project made it totally unnecessary for me to consider upgrading to the 2650 when this one dies. It would actually be too much. As it is now, when I stand on the opposite side of the pool the circulation current is strong enough that I can feel it brushing across my calves. I changed the eyeball from pointing as far left as possible to a little closer to the middle of the pool because it seems that the circulation is too fast and things look to be going right past the skimmer. Pointing more towards the middle seems to be better. Why would I want to spend more to run a .9 hp 2650 when there is this much flow from a 1/2 hp 1600? Ok, more time between backwashing but when the water is well balanced there isn't that much being trapped so I don't feel burdened by my backwash schedule.

This picture shows the eyeball pointed as high as possible. Before the mod the flow would disturb the surface about an inch but not actually break through the surface. Now it is much higher!



This picture shows how much turbulence there is now. This is with the jet pointing horizontally (not up like it is in the picture above) and nobody has been in the pool for a half hour.



I'm so happy that I finally got around to doing this. The first section I did was slow, but now I'm really quick at it. It wasn't scary at all and I enjoyed doing it.
 
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Good looking job!

Now I think you need to update your signature line....

About your valves.... Doing it that way with the threaded valves actually makes sense, if you ever decide to change that hard plumb job. If you had slip fittings, you'd be replacing them.
 
Are you running this with both the suction and skimmer valves open at the same time? I would think that would reduce the suction through the skimmer by about half vs if it were the only valve open.

Edit: never mind saw the suction valve is closed in the pictures. Didn't notice it first time I looked.
 
I have mine plumbed the same way, both skimmer and suction open skimmer works great , return eye is pointed down to stir up water and suction port pulls whatever in filter pool very clean. great job of plumbing, you'll like it !!!!!
 
It has only been a day and I already changed it. :D

The line going from the suction port to the skimmer bugged me. When the pipe was against the leg of the pool close to the skimmer, by the time it got to the suction port it was about 3 inches away from the pool. Since I knew I wasn't happy with it I left it dry fit so I could pull it apart today. I stopped at Home Depot and picked up a 22 degree connector. Adding it in there let me get the pipe off of the leg and give it just the right amount of bend. I like it. I will glue it up tomorrow.

From this POV, skimmer is to the right, suction to the left.

 
I love the work! Nice Job.
I have an Intex also but I cant bring myself to cut the liner for the through the wall skimmer. Not for fear of cutting per se, but because I would lose 2-3 inches in depth on my pool. I cant seem to get over this fear so I will just enjoy life with the over the wall skimmer.
You did a good job!
 
I love the work! Nice Job.
I have an Intex also but I cant bring myself to cut the liner for the through the wall skimmer. Not for fear of cutting per se, but because I would lose 2-3 inches in depth on my pool. I cant seem to get over this fear so I will just enjoy life with the over the wall skimmer.
You did a good job!

Not to get off topic, but I've heard if you line up the upper row of screws with the grey edge, you can get away with only 2 rows of tiles showing on the liner. Hope this may sway you to doing the install
 

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Still haven't got around to doing the pvc hard plumbing on my Intex 18' x 52" Ultra Frame. Still reading about it that's as far as I've got (going on my 4th summer with the pool taking it down after each summer). If I do it I won't do the cut in skimmer though. For same reasons as already posted, I couldn't do with less depth in the pool. The current Intex hang over skimmer works well with a large zip tie holding the arm so it's not moving all over the place like it used to.
 
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