Hi all- quick question-
If I go up with the dial to increase the chlorine, will the CYA go up as well?
If I go up with the dial to increase the chlorine, will the CYA go up as well?
CYA and Puck Fed Chlorinators
- Thread starter Bladesticks
- Start date
Yep. Every 10 ppm FC you add via pucks, you also add 6 CYA. Doesn't matter how fast the pucks dissolve or how big the pool is; that's just the composition of trichlor.
The pucks contain a set amount of CYA and chlorine. The dial will only control how quickly the puck erodes and adds those chemicals to the water. So, yes the CYA will go up as well.
Yes, pucks add CYA no matter where the dial is set. Higher dial = more/quicker addition
Ugghhh- thanks. Will it decrease if I lower the dial?
I see an SWG set up in my future....
It will slow down, but the ratio is the same no matter what. The FC will get used up killing nasties or oxidizing organic wastes and leaves or just break down in sunlight, but the CYA will live on.
You add more CYA via pucks, so the CYA goes up, which means you need higher FC levels, so you add more pucks, which adds more CYA, which means you need higher FC levels, so you add more pucks, which adds more CYA, which means you need higher FC levels, so you add more pucks, which adds more CYA, which means you need higher FC levels, so you add more pucks, which adds more CYA, and eventually your pool gets dull, cloudy, or green, and the pool store tells you you have high TDS so you need to drain, and then you start the vicious cycle all over again. Or we tell you you have high CYA, so you need to drain.
Once you've realized you've dug yourself into a hole, it's time to stop shovelling.
there are other options, but each has its pluses and minuses
SWCG
Manually dose with liquid chlorine
Liquidator to automatically dose liquid chlorine
Stenner pump to automatically dose liquid chlorine
You can search on each method and determine what is best for you.
Yup- and that's where I am at right now. I'm SLAMing. My concern is that I've been maintaining a FC level of 28 ppm based on a CYA of 70. I didn't shut off my chlorinator and added two pucks yesterday because it was low. Checked my CYA today and it's up close to 90. Should I adjust my FC to match a CYA of 90? The good news is that I've been getting CC levels < .5.....closer to zero and my FC has been holding good so I'm hoping I am at the end of the SLAM but will wait to see how the levels hold over night to be sure.
Should I go ahead and drain ASAP?
You have 90 CYA so you have to use that number for the SLAM.
It's up to you as to the drain/refill. You don't have your location in your profile so it's hard for me to say yes or no. If you are near the end of the SLAM and also near the end of the pool season you may just stick it out. But if you are in Florida with year round pool time I'd say drain & refill what you need to get the CYA in line.
It's up to you as to the drain/refill. You don't have your location in your profile so it's hard for me to say yes or no. If you are near the end of the SLAM and also near the end of the pool season you may just stick it out. But if you are in Florida with year round pool time I'd say drain & refill what you need to get the CYA in line.
Read through ABCs of pool water chemistry to get a better idea of how pool chemicals function. Keep in mind that dichlor and trichlor contain CYA, and calcium hypochlorite contains calcium. Both CYA and Calcium (CH) are needed in pools, but too much will cause problems. The only way to get rid of excess CYA or CH is to drain and replace water.
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