I recently purchased some jacks magic purple stuff to control some pool scaling, anyone have a particular way of using it aside from the recommended details on the bottle. It practically asks to put the whole 32oz bottle in then weekly add about 6 oz. also, at what point do you start draining pool to control calcium hardness. My current test results are as follows, FC 5, cya about 70, ph 7.4-7.6( fluctuates daily but I keep it at this level), ta 70-80, ch 500.
Calcium hardness levels
- Thread starter jrr
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Where do you live? If you use the pool calculator I think your FC is on the low side for CYA of 70. 5 is minimum, 5-10 is recommended for CYA 70. Overall our numbers are very similar. Same CH, same CYA.
Have you read about here about others discussing high CH? It is possible to live with high CH if you pay attention to the CSI, calcium saturation index. Play with the pool calculator. It will show you what TA and PH give you an acceptable CSI for 500 CH. For my 530 CH with TA of 70 I need to keep PH in 7.2 range. It will not totally solve scaling that is there already but it should help keep it from getting worse. I think I have even read you can reduce scale already there over time with a low, but within range, CSI.
If I don't have this exactly right someone else will set both you and me on the right path!
Yes with the high CH keeping the PH in check lowering it when it gets to 7.8 will keep scale from forming.
The FC is ok as OP has a SWG. he's right at the target level and the min is 3.
The FC is ok as OP has a SWG. he's right at the target level and the min is 3.
I can't help you with usage instructions on that stuff. I've never used it. Despite CH levels that hover around 800 and which have occasionally reached over 1000, I don't have scale.
500 CH is easily managed. My experience is that when it gets above 800 it gets difficult. Normal parameters say that you keep pH between 7.2 and 7.8. With high CH, maybe you're limited to 7.2 to 7.5. That's not a big deal. Likewise, TA levels are 70-90 or above. You might be forced to keep TA between 60 and 80.
Play with poolmath. Plug in all your numbers on both sides. Look at CSI down at the bottom. Anywhere from -.3 to +.3 is great. Even as high as +.6 is usually not a problem. If the water temp is 85, you're only at .08 CSI, which is great! Now start messing with the target values, one at a time, and see for yourself what happens when pH, TA, CH, or temperature climb. CH actually has a smaller effect than you'd expect, doesn't it?
You've already bought the stuff, so it probably wouldn't hurt to use it. But you don't really need it.
500 CH is easily managed. My experience is that when it gets above 800 it gets difficult. Normal parameters say that you keep pH between 7.2 and 7.8. With high CH, maybe you're limited to 7.2 to 7.5. That's not a big deal. Likewise, TA levels are 70-90 or above. You might be forced to keep TA between 60 and 80.
Play with poolmath. Plug in all your numbers on both sides. Look at CSI down at the bottom. Anywhere from -.3 to +.3 is great. Even as high as +.6 is usually not a problem. If the water temp is 85, you're only at .08 CSI, which is great! Now start messing with the target values, one at a time, and see for yourself what happens when pH, TA, CH, or temperature climb. CH actually has a smaller effect than you'd expect, doesn't it?
You've already bought the stuff, so it probably wouldn't hurt to use it. But you don't really need it.
Hi, thanks for the response. I live in south Texas and water here in my city has a lot of calcium. I look into what you said. Thank you.
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Ok, thanks. I'll definitely look into that!
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Ok, thanks. I'll definitely look into that!